0Tom@Dewitt

Does anyone have a photo with it laying on the core face?

What is the h x w measurements?

What's the cost at a Ford dealer?

0Tom@Dewitt

I'm checking these out but we have had problems finding the exact center mounting position with the dual 11" on C3 cars and that package is 23.5 wide. It seems if we move this fan 1/4" left or right someone complains about the A-arms. This new one is 2" wider!

sharkman76

I went and looked and it does look like its going to be close to the arms thats for sure! but close is ok if it clears! The 11's just look kinda wimpy when compared to the 12's but if they dont fit I guess it doesent matter!!!

BerniesVette

Last spring I installed 2 12 inch fans directly to my rad and positioned them so that they could be used in conjunction with my stock shroud and fan. I had to cut a small notch out of the shroud next to the left a-arm but it did fit. Sad thing is that only one fan is working; the other has a short in the wiring going into the fan. The good news is the car runs cool anyway with just one electric fan and the stock one. Twelve inch fans do work but I don't know if they would with a shroud attached. It would definately be close!
Bernie

bruced267

I installed a Dewits alum. radiator with the daul spals I did get a 20* drop in temp from 220* now down to 200* / 180* depends on the day? I know I can get these temps lower as I dont have the raidator seals installed [cant seem to find any quality seals, for another post]. I also originally used the the PWM, then I thougt I was smarter than others [ha ha] and wired them through a coolant temp switch on @ 180* off 200*[or so] now that I have read all these treads, I have a better understanding of workings of the fan, I now realize that my fans dont shut off ever. So my winter project is to intsall good radiator seals and 2 PWM controllers[probably not needed] and I am confident my temps will be a consistent 180* or lower !!! Hey Tom any opinoin on using 2 controllers?

PhotoVette1

I paid $189.00 new.

Height: RF64 = 18.500" SPAL = 16.250"

Width: RF64 = 22.000" SPAL = 23.500"

Total Coverage: RF64 = 407 in/sq SPAL = 381 in/sq

which is about the same given the slight overlap on top and bottom. You will note that the fan housing never comes in contact with the fins as it is pressed against the upper and lower supports on the radiator.

This is shown on a radiator from 1976 Vette (which was in my '77 Vette.)





I like the way the DC Controls contoller is designed to fit in the shroud:



You can even add a coolant overflow tank to make it a one piece intergal component--I'm not going that far.

Bullshark

Eric, IMHO you will be much better off finding a "big honkin radiator". That is where you will get your best payoff (performance and $). I still have my RamJet BB re-cored radiator in the attic......where it belongs The best possible setup will only use the thermostat to quickly get up to operating temp and to regulate in those extreme cold temp evironments. You should want the ambient air flow resulting from car speed to regulate the water temp when in motion. Fans should come in to play when stopped or after heavy load operation. I know that may sound hard to achieve but it really isn't. Why pay the power penalty of driving an alternator at almost full duty cycle just to keep an inadequate radiator in the system? I am still running the stock BB radiator in the 69 BB vert, and believe me, there is a world of difference between it and RamJet. When I get around to addressing it, the radiator will be first. Since I am a Binford 2000 guy, I want the power to go to the wheels.

Bullshark

0Tom@Dewitt

When it comes to radiators, fans, or water pumps it seems that bigger is better. At least that's what I hear when people call in.
"Don't you make anything bigger"? I hear it all the time....

I think we've established that C3 C/B radiators were pretty good....
then, an aluminum radiator is a major upgrade....
Dual fans is another upgrade...but still don't you have something bigger?

If we made the another super mega max big honkin unit, guess what?

Don't you have something bigger?

Durango_Boy

I have bigger. It's a Mustang fan that's 19" from tip to tip. Not too bad if surface area is the order.

PhotoVette1

I'll bet the crate motor suppliers say the same thing.

Bullshark

Tom, by "big honkin radiator" ( borrowing the term), I meant more cooling capacity. i.e. aluminum rad with better core size and water flow/speed for max heat convection. If you are talking stock BB radiators as having been established pretty good, that's not been my experience. They are adaquate under nominal conditions at best. IMHO

Bullshark

breathial

Yeah, I know... it would seem simple, but like anything else, it's a balancing act. Of course, if you look at my avatar, you'll notice that there's no spoiler or front valence panel under the nose. The previous owner (among his many other "Bubba" exploits) aparently attempted to rock-climb with the car at some point, so the chin of the car was wasted... So yes, I drove it like this, on my shake-down runs after I aligned it. And at idle, in traffic, etc., the temp. just kept creeping up... NOT good.

There are quite a few options, each with their respective advantages and disadvantages. For my money, I decided that having a 2-speed fan with independant temp. switches for each one, would be the best option. Yeah, I'd be maxxing out the alternator at idle- in fast speed- but I doubt this would be the normal situation...

As one of the other guys (also a nuclear engineer in a former life) has stated, thermal transfer efficiency is dependant on the following formula:
Q=UA(Th-Tc). U= overall heat transfer efficiency (where the DeWitts rad comes into play), A= area of the heat transfer medium, and the Temperature difference between the inlet and outlet temps of the heat exchanger. This covers the efficiency of the cooling system...

Actual rate of heat exchange of that system, is defined by Q=Mc(Th-Tc). Th, Tc are the same, m= mass flow rate of the coolant in the system, and c is a constant (the heat rate of water, or in this case, anti-freeze and water solution). This formula works for both the radiator-air heat, and also for the engine block-engine coolant exchanges.

So, for a given system- either your water pump or the fan- increasing the flow rate of the cooling medium will result in a higher rate of heat transfer, all else being equal. The limitations of the water pump, are due to cavitation, more than anything else. The limits of the radiator are due to the fan, and whatever ambient temperature is...

So it becomes a matter of choice- aluminum radiator and all the "sexy" stuff that goes along with that, or simply get the biggest fan you can get your grubbies on, and run with that. I chose the latter, you chose the former... To each their own, I guess.

And honestly, it was a simple choice for me: my wife, being an accountant, is keeping me very honest on how I spend money, and while she encourages my working on my toy, she demands that I get the absolutely best bang for every ducat spent... Which, honestly, I think is pretty cool...

I can easily explain why I'm spending $100 for a fan... But $1000 for a new aluminum radiator and dual fans...? No... I'll pass on that battle...

Be well.

Bullshark

Ok, Everyone has their $$ priorities. I won't tell her about the $100+ alternator if you don't

My wife still thinks that RamJet 502 cost $3K

Bullshark

breathial

I showed my wife what you said.... She says, if I tried something like this, it would be IMPOSSIBLE to hide...

And she's right...

ESU

How do you guys have your fan set up to run? 1 speed only (high)? 2 speeds? Variable? Whats temps does low come on, what temps for hi?
ESU

Durango_Boy

I'm interested in this too...

chevymans 77

I am using a Spal PWM low is set at 160 and high is set at 190. It’s a variable speed contoler.

ESU

Thats along the lines of what I was thinking.
ESU

Durango_Boy

Where did you get it, and how many amps does it handle?

chevymans 77

Not sure how many amps it will handle. I will look at the instructions and see if it says.