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What are the advantages of a solid roller????

Old 10-01-2006, 09:02 AM
  #41  
mvcrash
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Originally Posted by 63mako
Guess I am alone in this opinion.
Nope, I agree. Another point that seems to be missed is that they are not very forgiving. Adjust the lash wrong or have another component in the valve train start to wear and you'll bend or break something very quickly. Hydraulics have some play in them. Over rev a solid lifter and you'll be looking for new parts
Also, solids are just plain noisy, even when they are roller type. IHMO, Hydraulic for street and solids for strip. They don't mix well.
Old 10-01-2006, 11:53 AM
  #42  
kaiserbud
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Originally Posted by 63mako
[Solid cams Rule!]...Yes they do! ...But a solid roller is not for everyone. A hydraulic roller has it's place also. Not everyone can afford or wants to do what it takes to get the maximum benefit out of the solid roller cam. Some people want to run a 180 or 190 cc head, Dual plane intake, Stock bottom end and mostly stock drivetrain components. They want a dependable, mainanance free, street driver with some extra power that will occasionally see 6000 RPM. This is what the original poster seemed to be looking for. A Top end kit with matched hydraulic roller, a good set of 190 CC heads, dual plane and carb will give you up to an extra 100 HP on a stock base engine without sacrificing much durability, extra maintanance or expensive bottom end and drivetrain upgrades. With these requirements I really don't see the benefit of a solid roller cam for his application, but everyone is entitled to their opinion.
I know that we all want the moon... but for me - once I get on the street, I want some semblance of sanity for dependability.. Sure we all dream of having the fastest car in town, but the fact is, there is ALWAYS someone out there that is willing to give up more driveability than you (and they hopefully have more cash to do it without 'selling the farm').

I spoke with my engine builder and he prefers to under cam a bit for customers rather than over doing it. Especially for people like myself with limited $$$ and wanting a dual personality street motor. We tentatively discussed Brodix Race Rite Oval (rather than Rectangular) Ports that were ported to Rectangular at the Intake. ....staying away from Solid and maybe a Hydraulic Roller 225-230 @0.500 w/ 112 LSA. Maintain my dual plane GM Intake, 11:1 compression on my 427/435 standard bore. And finally convert my factory Dual Point, Gear Drive Tach to a GM Electronic. I currently have a 780 cfm Holley, Turbo 400, Factory Side Exhaust.

My last dyno with the GM Marine Hydraulic Cam was @ 301RWHP. That was nothing to sneeze at, but I had difficulty beating a slightly modified 2002ish Camaro. I shifted at 5200-5400 max. If I can shift at 5800-6000 - that is a massive increase to me. I noted to my engine builder that I want enough HP to ward off the '******' (hee-hee). I have confidence that however this new build is completed, the HP derived willl be FAR superior and driveability much better. It will be 93 octane acceptable, which means I am also FREE to move about the country!!!! ..... and I can deal with that..

And I think my position is similiar to the original poster's

Last edited by kaiserbud; 10-01-2006 at 12:00 PM.
Old 10-01-2006, 12:36 PM
  #43  
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Either go with a bigger cam or lower your compression if you want to run on pump gas. If your engine builder suggested 11:1 CR and a cam in the 225-230 duration range I would ask him to guarantee it won't ping, your dynamic compression is going to be too high for pump gas in my opinion. It is a big motor, go with a bigger cam the cubes will tame it down and you need the longer duration to bleed off some cylinder pressure
Old 10-01-2006, 12:42 PM
  #44  
Gordonm
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Originally Posted by MotorHead
Either go with a bigger cam or lower your compression if you want to run on pump gas. If your engine builder suggested 11:1 CR and a cam in the 225-230 duration range I would ask him to guarantee it won't ping, your dynamic compression is going to be too high for pump gas in my opinion. It is a big motor, go with a bigger cam the cubes will tame it down and you need the longer duration to bleed off some cylinder pressure
That is a lot of compression for a 225 to 230 duration cam. I would run something in the 235 to 240 range and still be on the lookout for detonation.
Old 10-01-2006, 06:56 PM
  #45  
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Don't solid roller lifters have to be rebuilt every year or so depending on the mileage? I thought I've read some horror stories here about solid roller lifters letting go and destroying engines.
Old 10-01-2006, 07:15 PM
  #46  
Edzred72
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Originally Posted by 63mako
Guess I am alone in this opinion.
Awww Kev...lonesome??? I'm with ya on this one bud. Remember, it's not popular to go against majority "opinion", so I bet there's more "hydraulic" guys out there. They just don't want to go against the grain and be counted...
Eddie
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Old 10-01-2006, 08:05 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by Edzred72
Awww Kev...lonesome??? I'm with ya on this one bud. Remember, it's not popular to go against majority "opinion", so I bet there's more "hydraulic" guys out there. They just don't want to go against the grain and be counted...
Eddie
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Go Bears!! Run whatever cam you want! You know me, I butt heads as often as the Bears defensive line. See your progressing on your build. My line bore is done, Decked, going to bore next. It's finally happening! Good luck on your build. Let's see what that Bad 406 hydraulic roller will do in the 72. Pics?

Last edited by 63mako; 10-01-2006 at 11:31 PM.
Old 10-02-2006, 07:15 AM
  #48  
alnukem
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OK, I know I'm a butthead & probably will use the solids.......but, what grind would you guys recommend in the hydralic roller? Will I still pull the same power & as wide a RPM power range?????????
Old 10-02-2006, 12:37 PM
  #49  
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You should do a little research into the life expectancy of a solid roller lifter before you make a decision. Here is a thread that talks about it.
hot rod forum
Personally, I wouldn't want to have to inspect the lifters every 2k-3k miles in a street engine.
Old 10-02-2006, 01:53 PM
  #50  
KJL
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Here is my combo with a hydraulic roller.

Last edited by KJL; 10-02-2006 at 02:37 PM.
Old 10-02-2006, 02:17 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by KJL
Here is my combo with a hydrolic roller.
Nice setup but I would still consider a solid roller with more duration. That cam has got to have a ton of bottom end. That is the cam I was thinking of running in my 385ci motor, only in solid form. I don't mind the maint. of solids.
Old 10-02-2006, 02:35 PM
  #52  
KJL
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With my 4 speed in drive my vacuum is at 5 inches. That is about as low as I want to go. A manual trany can go more radical.
Old 10-02-2006, 03:12 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by KJL
Here is my combo with a hydraulic roller....450 RWHP/475 RWTQ .
Our builds are almost identical. I will be TICKLED PINK if my 406 turnes out this well. My Crower Hydro roller has a pinch less duration with .550 @ 1.5 lift. Calculated 10:1.1 compression. Forged pistons & rods and same AFR heads. I had to clearance the pro Magnum rockers a bit for those monster 1.550 valve springs... did you???
Eddie
Old 10-02-2006, 03:32 PM
  #54  
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I am using 1.6 ratio rockers and they JUST cleared. I am due for an under valve cover check. I read in this post that Compcam's new magnum rockers have a roller oil hole. Mine do not and I am concerned this may lead to premature wear. When I got them I was supprised there were not any oil holes....always something. I could attach a PDF of my dyno run, but I am not sure how to do that....
Old 10-02-2006, 03:37 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by KJL
With my 4 speed in drive my vacuum is at 5 inches. That is about as low as I want to go. A manual trany can go more radical.
Surprised it is that low. I am running a solid flat tappet in my 385 and with a duration of 252/260 @.050 I get around 8 inches at 900 rpm. I would expect that cam in a 427 to idle with a lot more vacuum. Every motor is different. I would like to see the dyno pull of it.
Old 10-02-2006, 03:53 PM
  #56  
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If I had my vacuum advance hooked up I could probably pick up the vacuum a couple of inches but then I have problems with pinging at cruise when accelerating. (to much advance) I just run with 36 deg mechanical advance all in by 2300 rpm. 21 deg initial.

Last edited by KJL; 03-22-2013 at 08:18 AM.
Old 10-02-2006, 04:07 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by KJL
If I had my vacuum advance hooked up I could probably pick up the vacuum a couple of inches but then I have problems with pinging at cruise when accelerating. (to much advance) I just run with 36 deg mechanical advance all in by 2300 rpm. 21 deg initial.
Nice flat torque curve. I also am running no vacuum advance right now. 22 initial with 36 total.

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Old 10-02-2006, 04:11 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by kaiserbud
I know that we all want the moon... but for me - once I get on the street, I want some semblance of sanity for dependability.. Sure we all dream of having the fastest car in town, but the fact is, there is ALWAYS someone out there that is willing to give up more driveability than you (and they hopefully have more cash to do it without 'selling the farm').

I spoke with my engine builder and he prefers to under cam a bit for customers rather than over doing it. Especially for people like myself with limited $$$ and wanting a dual personality street motor. We tentatively discussed Brodix Race Rite Oval (rather than Rectangular) Ports that were ported to Rectangular at the Intake. ....staying away from Solid and maybe a Hydraulic Roller 225-230 @0.500 w/ 112 LSA. Maintain my dual plane GM Intake, 11:1 compression on my 427/435 standard bore. And finally convert my factory Dual Point, Gear Drive Tach to a GM Electronic. I currently have a 780 cfm Holley, Turbo 400, Factory Side Exhaust.

My last dyno with the GM Marine Hydraulic Cam was @ 301RWHP. That was nothing to sneeze at, but I had difficulty beating a slightly modified 2002ish Camaro. I shifted at 5200-5400 max. If I can shift at 5800-6000 - that is a massive increase to me. I noted to my engine builder that I want enough HP to ward off the '******' (hee-hee). I have confidence that however this new build is completed, the HP derived willl be FAR superior and driveability much better. It will be 93 octane acceptable, which means I am also FREE to move about the country!!!! ..... and I can deal with that..

And I think my position is similiar to the original poster's
Kaiserbud - my 427 roller cam was 242/248 and it was relatively mild with .620/.620 the motor was a TQ monster and with my auto tranny could roast the tires from a rolling 30 mph start. If you in fact have 11-1 compression you will be in preignition land all the time with a a sub 236 or so cam.

Last edited by gkull; 10-02-2006 at 04:13 PM.
Old 10-03-2006, 09:16 PM
  #59  
kaiserbud
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gKull - thanks for the input. Was yours a solid or hydraulic? I assume you had no ping? Because that is what I am in now and I SURELY do not want that.
Old 10-03-2006, 09:27 PM
  #60  
Edzred72
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Does this thread qualify as one of the longest actual "tech discussions"...with NO nonsense, OT, highjack, jokes, sarcasum, argument, or bashing?????
We play nice when we want to....don't we???
Eddie

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