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Bolts Stuck - I'm Stumped

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Old 09-28-2006, 02:33 PM
  #21  
RWBennett
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Originally Posted by Edzred72
Whatever you use (impact or regular socket) make it a six point socket. 12 point will round it in a blink!!!!
Eddie
What size socket should fit the head of the caliper bolt?
I'm a newbie (no stupid questions, right??)
Old 09-28-2006, 03:32 PM
  #22  
rcread
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Originally Posted by RWBennett
What size socket should fit the head of the caliper bolt?
I'm a newbie (no stupid questions, right??)
5/8". You might try using a hydraulic jack handle over the wrench for extra leverage.
Old 09-28-2006, 04:36 PM
  #23  
1ARACE
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More leverage, like above said use a jack handle/piece of pipe, etc. over top the wrench. Or just a wrench and bang it with a BFH.
Keep in mind if that bolt is froze up that bad an impact gun will probably twist the bolt off.
Best to use a wrench, get the bolt broke loose, go about 1-2 turns then run it back in 1-2 turns...do this a few times to get the debris/rust out of the threading or you'll again twist the bolt off. And above all else take it slow and easy.
Old 09-28-2006, 08:58 PM
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1mpalss
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I've got the same problem with my rear caliper bolts. I've soaked it with PB blaster and tried a breaker bar. After feeling like butting my head against the quarter panel, I gave up. I'll give it another shot one of these days, when I'm fresh for a battle!
Old 09-28-2006, 09:07 PM
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Glassbowtie77
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Originally Posted by RFJohnston
PB Blaster and an impact... problem solved.
Yep, worked for me. If you don't have an impact gun, spray it it with the PB and wait a 1/2 hour, then use a breaker bar and it should come loose. If not than it's time to get a compressor and air tools.
Old 09-28-2006, 11:00 PM
  #26  
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An impact socket and a 28" breaker bar should do the trick.
Old 09-29-2006, 03:56 AM
  #27  
vette1978
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Default Stuck caliper bolts

My bet is on the breaker bar. I had the same problem on my "78. Went out spent money on an impact wrench & sockets - Didn't even move the bolts Then I went and bought the breaker bar and that broke the hold of the threads (because they are a fine thread)and the rest of the removal was able to be done with an ordinary ratchet & 5/8" socket wrench.
Old 09-29-2006, 08:14 AM
  #28  
ghoastrider1
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use the "blue wrench" only as a last resort on brakes.
Old 09-29-2006, 08:35 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Hauq`
Do you have an impact wrench? If not, get one. Worth it's weight in gold.
An impact wrench with six-point impact sockets after PB Blaster is my go-to guy for all the rust-welded suspension bolts on my 76. After a night of removing another set, I give my wife a big kiss and say "thankyouthankyouthankyou" for letting me buy these tools. My rear suspension pieces would still be sitting on the car if it weren't for the impact wrench. The cheapie impact sockets from Harbor Freight work fine.
Old 09-29-2006, 09:35 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by ghoastrider1
use the "blue wrench" only as a last resort on brakes.
blue wrench....
Old 09-29-2006, 09:45 AM
  #31  
Boofers
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FYI don't use an impact gun to install the bolts. Probably would be easy to crush the lock washer or perhaps damage the threads.
Old 09-29-2006, 09:58 AM
  #32  
45ACP
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Originally Posted by ghoastrider1
use the "blue wrench" only as a last resort on brakes.
Never heard it called that before. I've always called it "The Red Wrench", but I've also heard the term "Firesaw".
Old 09-29-2006, 10:41 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by 45ACP
Never heard it called that before. I've always called it "The Red Wrench", but I've also heard the term "Firesaw".
i had not heard that one either before today. we always called it the smoke wrench.
Old 09-29-2006, 11:28 AM
  #34  
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I had just 1 I was unsuccessful removing and the head broke off. I was able to get the calipers off but need to drill this one out of the trailing arm. I was planning to drill it out from the outside then tap it. Any foreseable problems? What size drill bit and tap should I use? (just want to double check I have the right stuff)

Thanks
Old 09-29-2006, 11:36 AM
  #35  
eileenthevette
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Originally Posted by rabiddawg
even better than that is aero kroil
actually creeps up the rusty threads and eats the rust away.
found at eastwoods:
http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?i...emType=PRODUCT
"Not for use in California"??? It MUST be good stuff!!!
Old 09-29-2006, 11:36 AM
  #36  
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what about using an "easy out"?

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...seBVCookie=Yes
Old 09-29-2006, 01:03 PM
  #37  
bwellisley
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i actually tried one of those on a bleader screw by hand and it snapped off in the caliper as well!!! So, i made a call and purchased new calipers...

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To Bolts Stuck - I'm Stumped

Old 09-29-2006, 02:56 PM
  #38  
halfmoontrail
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Going through it now on my '69. what has worked best is a 6-point socket, and a long pipe over the ratchet handle.

If they will come loose, this will do it.

I must admit I rounded one off. Used my dremeal to make cuts in the head, and hammer/chisel to break the head off. I then removed the caliper bolts that hold the halves together. The front half was then free, and I pried the back half off of the bolt stub...that little beauty is soaking in PB until I get up my nerve and attack it with my nutbuster pliers or a pipe wrench or vise grips or all of the above.
Old 09-29-2006, 03:35 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by halfmoontrail
Going through it now on my '69. what has worked best is a 6-point socket, and a long pipe over the ratchet handle.
Ahh, yes...the discount breaker bar. Bad thing about that is that putting additional pressure on the ratcheting mechanism isn't good for it. I bought a 1/2" drive 28" breaker bar at Harbor Freight for about $15.
Old 09-29-2006, 03:47 PM
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Craftsman...it breaks, they give me a new one!


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