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OK, I am going to raise some eyebrows but trust me, I am honest.
I just bought a 69 matching number vette, 350\300hp. The engine was suffering(oval cylinder bores and warped heads) and I had it completely rebuilt. Well...they ground off the VIN codes on the front right stamp area. I have someone to restamp it for me but I cannot find a picture of how the vin was originally laid out on the stamp or the other codes stamped there.
Does anyone have an image of a VIN stamping in the year range that would be correct for a 350\300hp. Please blot out the vin# for your safety(but leave it enough so I can tell how it is laid out..)
thx
The factory machining marks where the deck surface is plained parallel to the block's length (called broaching) are gone. That's problem #1. Problem #2 is that the stamps used to create both the code and the vin components are very unique. If your friend doesn't have these unique stamps then what you'll end up with is a stamping pad without the broach marks with the wrong stamp fonts. It's better to do nothing and just keep the receipt from the machine shop to verify, along with the casting codes, that it is the original block. Having a messed up restamp looks like you're trying to defraud, which is harder to recover from.
I have the same problem, but have the receipts, and the date codes etc on the block casting will help to prove it is the original block.
I had the engine redone years ago, and when they asked if they should deck the block, of course I said yes. Just didn't think about the stampings until afterwards when I saw the decked block. I can't repeat the words I used at the time, but it was my fault, so you move on.
Better to leave it unstamped, and have the explanation than to stamp it and raise questions about integrity.
I don't understand this mashine shops. They know that they are redoing old engines and should deck the block in such a way not to touch the stamp pad.
That is surely possible without bigger problems.
Thanks guys for the wisdom. I think you are right. I'll just leave it as it is and keep the receipts. It just kills me though to have worked so hard to find that matching numbers car and see it destroyed like that.
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There is an acid etching process or the use of "Frye's Reagent" which may allow you to be able to see some of the numbers on the pad depending on how much they decked the block. Otherwise, if you have the correct block casting #s and the date codes are in the ball park for your VIN it is pretty apparent your engine is original. (Especially if you have the machine shop data). Most of the fraud out there is small block cars that have magically become big blocks. Not too many people trying to fake base motor cars.
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