When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
My 75 makes a scrub sound when I start out.
Drive and Reverse? I can really feel it in the drivers seat. any ideas.
Changed rear lube. E brake? U-joints?drive shaft?
Very nice Garry. I remember seeing that jig when I came to visit for my TA's. I was going to build the same until I found a driveshaft place near me that installs the non-greasable spicer joints right there, labor free. I figured they do this for a living so they should know how to install them without damaging. Got mine back and no bends or damage. And the joints themselves are cheaper than what i can find on the internet. Cool guys too...except they like Chevele's over the vette.
Great write up Gary.
I
The only thing I do different is I polish the bores for a very small interference fit. I then hold the driveshaft in the vise and then use a very small brass hammer walk the cap in. I have a few in my vet that actually press in with just thumb pressure and I have never had a u joint problem. Some are 20 years old and still going strong.
When I do tranny swaps and we don't have a quick take apart tranny yoke I just polish the yoke up for a thumb slide fit and install the universal under the car with very minor thumb pressure and they all seem to work out fine.
I feel that a heavy press fit distorts the universal cap and destroys the tinny roller bearings.
I never seem to have a problem with a cap spinning in the yoke even with almost NO press fit.
I have seen shafts that eat universal suddenly stop doing this just because the bore was polished out to a large easy slip fit size.
We used to use the Spicer joints all the time but since the design change w/the plastic seals we have not used them as much. We found that with the plastic seals, if they crack on someone, the joint will fail prematurely. We use Neapco joints now that are cryoed and I personally think they are just as good as the Spicer joints. I even once heard they were a division of Spicer.
Last edited by Van Steel; Nov 13, 2006 at 01:21 PM.
i just replaced all of mine (brand pdq or something from autozone). i think they were all original, as a few were buggers to get out! i used a vice to lightly hold the shaft and punched-out the joints. for the tougher ones i got some help and held them on a table while i punched them through.
i also marked the ends to keep them oriented the same. prior to putting in the new ones i took steel wool to the inside of the bores and removed any burrs from the removal process. they went in with light taps of a small hammer. i had to rework a few of the clip slots as some of them were damaged from trying to remove the old clips that were nearly permanently fixed!
My 75 makes a scrub sound when I start out.
Drive and Reverse? I can really feel it in the drivers seat. any ideas.
Changed rear lube. E brake? U-joints?drive shaft?
Me Too! I believe it is the clutches in the posi unit. Some members say to use the GM gear lube additive ONLY. I am going to try that next, seeing as how I used after market additive and still have the noise. I am going to completely drain and refill the unit with fresh oil and additive.
Very timely post.... I almost bought my U-joints yesterday but I had to work so never made it down there. I never thought I'd be happy having to work at work on Sunday instead of work on my vette.
Well I installed new TRW's with zerks when I built them but I never really liked them and had zerk joints crack in 1/2 in the past so I'm going to install new Spicer Solids.
Gary
Informative post. I like the jig idea; I'm sure it makes the half shafts easier to handle.
The U-joint that failed before, was the grease fitting in compression or tension? Can you post pictures of the fracture planes? You bring up a great reminder to all of us who put in the zerk U-joints; make sure they are installed correctly. I will only buy solid Spicers from now on.
Found the "jig" in the Volunteer Vette catalog last night while thumbing thru it. Its very similar to what Gary fab'd up. I will be ordering one next time I place an order with them. http://www.volvette.com/page/VVP/PROD/tools/TL30
I always cut my u joints with a thin cutting disc on a grinder. You can't do that if you have those flanges, you'll have to press those off first (80 and later don't use drive flanges, everything bolts together) but then removing the joints from the shaft is much easier if you cut them just where the trunion goes over into unmachined the center section, you'll just be left with the 2 caps and they easily tap out with a hammer. While cutting everything gets nice and hot loosening it up some in the process. This also eliminates the chance of bending the ears.
Last edited by Twin_Turbo; Nov 14, 2006 at 04:26 PM.
Clutches usually hammer and typically around corners when hot. Could be several things, rotor/PB brakes, joints, yokes hitting diff from wear, you really have to take a look to see.
Great post Gary. I just finished my ujoints today. Bent one flange and had to buy a new one. Wish I had this post about a week ago. I used your T Arm post also, you do a great job explaining the details. I love the pics too. Thanks for all your help.
To follow up on this post on 1/2 shafts, we had 50* weather last weekend so I was able to install the diff with new 336's and the rear suspension. Here are those shafts I just installed Spicers in.
Here is a close up of the French locks I use. I have no problem torquing them to 75 ft/lbs without any twisting. The Gm locks bend like crazy over 50 ft/lbs.
Shaft are loaded here and parallel. I do have to re set the exhaust.
From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
looks nice...its been so long since i have done anythng with u joints i just can't remember them any more......the first end you put in the yoke that was without the cap and bearings correct? thks bob