Some time in the past I read a thread on how to setup front wheel bearings using shims and a inch pound torque wrench. I have ran search and cannot find. Can anyone help.

Dennis

 

Here's a how-to article: While the pictures show an older Vette with drum brakes, the procedures are basically the same for disc brakes as indicated


http://www.corvettemagazine.com/2006...el_bearing.asp

 

I don't believe that shims are required unless you're using them on the wheel studs to reduce runout.

I don't remember what the torque is for setting the front bearings but the procedure is pretty simple. Just grease the new bearings, put them in place and torque them to the specified setting. Then back out to the next hole to put the pin through the castle washer.

 

Yes, shims are for only adjusting the rotor runout. In addition to the procedure in the article, if you really want to do it right then set the bearing play to .0015". The thread pitch is 24/inch, therefore every 1/12 turn (six flats to a nut with two perpendicular cotter pin holes), each 1/12 of a turn changes the end play by .004", so if you know that it is loose within this range, you can dress a few thousands off the washer to achieve the desired .0015", performing a final check with a dial indicator.

 

If the front spindles are worn on the OD, then even new bearings won't help. I run across this a lot.

My own C2 is this way... new bearings, adjusted, still loose.

 

Yours too Tom? I had my '67s spindles hardchromed and machined back to size for this very reason.

 

Appreciate the replys but this is not what I'm looling for. There was a thread a year or two ago about setting up front wheel bearings. It went like this. With the wheel spinning snug down the nut, then loosen and torque it with an inch pound torqe wrench ( the setting I don't remember) If the hole for the carter key lines up your good, if not make a shim from a valve spring shim or something similar and place behind the nut. Repeat the process untill the holes line up for your carter key. I used this process and liked the way it worked, however I do not remember the torque setting.

 

I think you are looking for the Big Block From Hell article by Hib Halverson. All 16 parts are on the Idaho Corvette Club website. Have fun.

 

Well it is bascially the same as dressing the existing thrust washer to the desired thickness to obtain the optimum axial play. I would not be using any shim stock behind a specially hardened wheel bearing thrust washer to obtain the next cotter ket setting, you would be much better off running it where it falls after torquing to the specified GM torque value and backing it off to the first available hole.

 

Well I finally found it

How to adjust the front wheel bearings

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I have been asked a number of times how to adjust the front wheel bearings. This is NOT my method but one that I like and I follow it. I have tested the results and agree with it.
This is from the Article BigBlock from Hell. I am copying it.

Our lip seals on our brakes have a .010 limit in flex before they start pumping air. This is bearing play plus rotor runout added together. If you accept .008 bearing play it leaves nothing for rotor runout.

The allowable front wheel bearing clearance is .001-.010 with .003-.005 prefereable. Follow that and you will have problems.

In 63 the service manual had us torque the bearing nut to 12 ft/lbs and back off one nut flat and install the cotter pin. This gave us 0-.007. in 71 manual the clearance was increased to .001-.008.

Later chevy said to tighten the nut to 12 ft / lbs then back off until just loose then hand tighten until one of the cotter pin holes lines up. This is .001 to .005

This is the method recommend. Global West whoever they are came up with this and I like it.
While spinning the wheel in the direction of forward vehicle travel, torque the bearing nut to 15ft/lbs, this sets the bearing and grease.
Back off the nut until loose then while rotating in the direction of travel retighten to 50-60 inch pounds, Install the cotter pin without backing off to the nearest cotter pin hole. This give .0005-.001
Now the problem is there is no cotter pin hole??? Check and you will find there are TWO 2 holes in the spindle and the chances are good one of them lines up. If not then you can use valve spring shims under the nut, install one shim try the proceedure agian and check the TWO cotter pin holes.
I have used this for years along with trued/shimmed rotors and the most runout I have in one wheel is .003 total for bearing and runout.

Norval of course

 

I tighten the nut while spinning forward, I use a wrench not concerned with torque just seating the bearings. Then I'll back the nut off and then finger tighten them,only sligthly backing off to align the cotter pin hole. They should rotate smooth and have about .002 endplay. If the hole doesn't line up then I'll grind the washer a few thousands.