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In order for us to tell you what to do, first tell us what you want to do with the car. Do you want to go for NCRS flight judging? Bowtie? You you want a nice, stock weekend driver or do you wish to modify the car? Carefully think about what condition the car is in, and your desires before jumping in and doing anything.
So, what do you want to get out of the car? Lots of us here have covered the whole range from NCRS to wicked modified street pounding hot-rods. Tell us which path you want to take, and we'll help you get there.
68350 -- the FIRST thing to do is get the car safely running. Your priority should be to drive and enjoy it for a bit before deciding upon what it needs or in what direction you want to go. You should expect to do a complete tune up and have the brake system inspected. While you are driving and enjoying, start doing your homework. Read, read, read and get a handle upon what you're up against before rebuilding or restoring. Post your Trim Tag codes, VIN, and engine stamps here and we'll decode them for you.
Go slow -- lots and lots of stuff on your '68 is one-year-only and unique to '68s.
No I like my car even though it doesn't look the greatest. You can help restore it though :yesnod: Post a pic of your car :chevy
68350hp
________
1968 Polar White Ragtop
1974 Millie Migila Red Coupe (all Orig.)
Bamavettes,
Did you have your coupe repainted LeMans blue or was it already painted when you acquired it.
Do you know the manufacturer of the paint and the type.
I am restoring my 68 coupe and it was originally LeMans blue (it's not blue now) but when I had one door jamb repainted last week in "ChromaBase" LeMans blue it seemed very glossy and didn't look EXACTLY as I thought it would.
Any input appreciated as the car has been completely stripped and the intent is to get it to look the way it did when it left the factory (but I don't want to use lacquer).
Thank you,
Base/clear will look especially glossy and wet as copared to laquer. I know there are techniques for blending color into the clear, as well as some other things, to make modern paints appear more original. I think a single stage urethane will look more correct than base/clear, but I wouldn't shoot a metallic in a single stage.
The NCRS has had a few seminars on how to make modern paints look correct. Try posting a new topic asking about this specifically. I bet someone will respond with good detail.
an NCRS car is not always a trailer quenn. I have seen many many cars at judging that folks drive everyday. using NCRS standards as a starting point will get you a great number of people that really know that car from the day is built and can give you valuable advice on getting "13 years worth of hot garage" off it's age.
Thank you Shannon.
I will run the mixing of color into clear idea by the shop that will be doing the pint work to see if they can try that technique.
I appreciate your input. Have a good weekend.
There is a great book that should be required reading for any C3 owner. "How to Restore and Modify your C3 Corvette. Written by a guy who walks you through his complete 1968 restoration. Lots of good advise and real world expertise. Also some excellent charts to help you walk through and deterimine the actuall condition of the car. Best of luck. Read first spend less later. :seeya
ksbunting, bamavettes' Vette looks like mine, the repaint was too dark. I think 69er's (Joe's) Lemans Blue 69 looks more like the original color. 68350hp, you ought to make sure the simple things work first, such as brakes, steering, and other critical things. Then drive it and decide what you want to do with it. I didn't know about mine either, but the more cars I see on the forum, the more my opinion forms about what to do with my car. I think you will see what I mean after a while. In the meantime, have fun with it and cruise around .