PRNDL

I have a new clutch (installed by mechanic) and I have too much freeplay in the pedal. I have to push the pedal all the way to the floor to fully engage the clutch. I went to adjust the nuts on the choke rod and I see they are already all the way at the very end of the rod! It seems I either need a new, longer rod or some kind of extension to screw on the end of the existing rod. Any suggestions? MJ

noxqsz

MN;

I believe that you should tighten the nuts on the adjust ment rod to remove freeplay in your clutch. All the Chevy clutches I've adjusted were that way, at any rate.

TNT

Hey Mark, did you are your mechanic replace the clutch fork pivit ball stud that screws into the bel housing. It sounds like it is the new GM service replacement and it is too short. I fought this on the my 70. It drove me crazy. Mr gasket makes an adjustiable stud. It will work,I promise. Thad

GaryS

Another thing to look at is the clutch rod off of the "Z" bracket. Did that get changed? I had a 66 with a 350 in it and when I bought a proper 327 I didn't change this rod out and I had the same problems you describe. The moral of the story is that the 327 and 350 use different length push rods. If your mechanic changed them out this could be your problem. The clutch adjustment procedure should be in your GM Chassis Service Manual. It describes how to take the free play out of the clutch system.

Let us know what you find.
Gary

PRNDL

Thanks for the replies! I dont think any of the linkage was replaced this time around. However, as I see it there are 3 pieces, 1. The clutch rod that comes from the clutch pedal and gets pushed forward as the clutch pedal is depressed. 2. The so-called Z-bar that fits into the engine block, and 3. The rod that runs back to the clutch fork. Any one of these parts could be changed to effectively give me a little more length which would engage the clutch sooner. Right now the adjustment nuts are at the very end of the clutch rod, which leaves no room to lengthen the rod.

GaryS, I already thought about trying to get a longer rod that runs back to the clutch fork. That would do it if I can find one. Thad, I am not sure what part you are talking about and why it would make a difference. Thanks, MJ

Steve Straus

The problem here is the ball stud. I had to do this on my car when I installed the centerforce. Have him change the ball stud, it's the only correct way to fix this problem

Here is the difference. (pic stolen from another member's page that I have bookmarked).

Paul Borowski

I agree with the others on the "ball stud". If it is worn, very worn or just plain the wrong one(too short), it will result in the clutch fork being "too far" away from the pressure plate resulting in "excess" travel or free play. Went through this with my '80 two years ago and it "seemed" to have one of the "shorter" ball studs installed(from the factory???). I believe there were two to three different length ones from GM. A GM counter person told me "all 1955 to 1981 manual transmission cars took the same one", but there seems to be some debate on this. All I know is the new one I got from GM was about 3/8" inch "taller" than the one that WAS in my '80. I used to have to mash the clutch all the way to the floor just to get it in reverse. Now, with this new taller ball stud, I can put the pedal about an inch off of the floor and easily get it into reverse. Also, check the Z bar where it attaches to the frame. If this "ball with a nut on it" is loose, your Z bar will "sag" as you press the clutch in and there too you'll loose pedal travel(distance).

Mark, also forgot to say goodbye to you an Juliet there at Iselin, NJ Regional. When they released the cars at about 4:30PM, it was a mad dash for the door!!! :D

Gordonm

The other thing to watch out for is the Z bar. It should not go any further than vertical. If it does it goes "overcenter" and could cause the linkage to bind up. I had to go to the longer ball stud when I put in the new flywheel and clutch. I was able to get the right freeplay but the linkage was going overcenter and gave a very strange feel to the clutch. After the new ball stud the nuts are back in the center and the linkage has the proper geometry. Did they resurface the flywheel, this could change some of the spacing inside. It moves the whole assembly closer to the motor.

PRNDL

Thanks for the explanations - I am SLOWLY learning! There are several ball studs in the area. Now I figured out you are talking about the one in the middle of the clutch fork.

Steve, my new clutch is your basic centerforce. (not the dual friction)
Gordon, they did resurface the flywheel.
Paul, I see you understand my problem: Clutch works, I just have to depress the pedal too far.

And now the $64 (or rather, the $1000) question:

What is involved in replacing the clutch fork ball stud? Do you have to pull the entire trans to get at it??

MJ

Gordonm

I was able to do it without pulling the trans. It is a little tricky due to the spring that holds the fork to the ball stud. It takes a little work but it can be done. You will have to slide the trans back some but it should not ahve to come out.

TNT

Steve Strause, You hit the nail on the Da*m head. This problum took me about 6 weeks to figure out. Since I couldn't get a correct length ball stud I went with the Mr Gasket adj ball stud and BAM the clutch was rite! :smash: Thanks for the pics. I am a computer Retard and if I don't butter up my wife I can't get anything done on this boob tube. Thad :hat

PRNDL

Anybody have a part number? My AIM shows the part, names it, but no number! Summit has an "Adjustable pivot ball, GM" made by Lakewood, picture looks like 3 pieces. MJ

Steve Straus

GM part number 3790556.

--
Steve

madvette74

hello, i have a centerforce dual friction clutch with new pressure plate ect, you are to have 2 nuts on the clutch rod that comesfrom the clutch pedal, when you make adjustments you will ooosen these and the retighten to slide the arm up or down the rod, i dont quite have enough room on the rod, to fit a nut on? also how far does the pedal have to be from the floor before it engages, mine is about 7/16-1/2'' from the floor any more or less it wont go into the gears as smooth, i have about 600 miles on the clutch

PRNDL

Steve, Thanks!

GM Part #
Category
Description
Pack Qty

GM List GM Wholesale Our Price Core Charge Quantity Add
3790556 All STUD
1
$10.65
$7.99
$6.39


Madvette74, Sounds to me like you have the same problem! You should have 2 nuts at the end of your rod ( :eek: !!!!) LOL

(Compose yourself, Mark!!) There should be a swivel between the nuts that connects the rod to the Z-bar. What hardware do you have on the clutch rod? In my case, the nuts and swivel are there, but they are all the way at the very end of the rod already, leaving no room for further adjustment.

The service manual specifies freeplay in terms of pedal distance traveled from the UP position, not distance from the floor. However, 1/2" from the floor sounds way to low to me, and uncomfortable to use. Read Paul's description above about having to mash the pedal to the floor. In my case, with my headlights on I am flashing my brights every time I use the clutch!!!!! :mad:

MJ

madvette74

hi
i have the 2 nuts and swivel, i acually went out there before responding and was able to fit the other nut on, i know when the clutch was brand new, never used i couldn't quite get the nut on, but it's on now, but really no room move for adjustment, when i said it engages at about 1/2 from the floor, what i ment was that the pedal rises from the floor about 1/2 before you can feel the clutch starting to grab, but to change the ball stud, cant i just remove the fork and somehow reach in with a socket or opened end wrench to change it??

Tom454

Also... be careful about how you adjust it...
If you adjust it so that you are able to force the pressure plate fingers "over-center" with your foot, you can ruin the pressure plate.

madvette74

[QUOTE]Also... be careful about how you adjust it...
If you adjust it so that you are able to force the pressure plate fingers "over-center" with your foot, you can ruin the pressure plate.
**** i am not sure wht you mean about over center, how would i know, is what i mentioned about how i have mine setup ok??

Chuck Gongloff

Could it also possibly be an incorrect throw-out bearing? There are several lengths of bearings available. Very common to mismatch your ball/fork/rod assembly with a bearing too short which might cause the same problem. Hope this helps. Chuck

madvette74

[QUOTE]Could it also possibly be an incorrect throw-out bearing? There are several lengths of bearings available. Very common to mismatch your ball/fork/rod assembly with a bearing too short which might cause the same problem. Hope this helps. Chuck
hey chuck
i know for a fact it's the correct throw out bearing, so it must need a longer ball stud, i amcurious to know if i can just take the fork out and replace the stud?