tips on installing intake manifold please
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 3,287
Likes: 7
From: n/a SC
tips on installing intake manifold please
I put the heads on a couple weeks ago, I first asked a couple questions on here...so when I did that little job I had no worries so figured I would ask on this too.
Do I install the instake manifold gaskets with no gasket sealant just like I did on the heads? or do you use some kind of sealer on them?
I have never installed one so I would greatly appreciate any advice at all on this to make it where I don't screw it up.
I know people say not to use the end seals that come with a kit but I'm no hot rodder I doubt this engine will blow um out. It's a 427/390hp pretty much putting it back to stock performance.
so do you installe the side gaskets and the end seals dry or what. I have a book so I know the proper torque values and sequence.
again it's my first rebuild...thanks!
Do I install the instake manifold gaskets with no gasket sealant just like I did on the heads? or do you use some kind of sealer on them?
I have never installed one so I would greatly appreciate any advice at all on this to make it where I don't screw it up.
I know people say not to use the end seals that come with a kit but I'm no hot rodder I doubt this engine will blow um out. It's a 427/390hp pretty much putting it back to stock performance.
so do you installe the side gaskets and the end seals dry or what. I have a book so I know the proper torque values and sequence.
again it's my first rebuild...thanks!
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,716
Likes: 4
From: New Baden Illinois
Put a little bit of sealant around the water jacket holes. As far as the end seals, most people recommend getting rid of the rubber seals and using a bead of sealant. The rubber end seals are notorious for not sealing properly.
Racer
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 383
Likes: 3
From: san diego
end seala
Hi
my experience has been that as long as the heads haven't been milled that the end gaskets are fine. When the head have been surfaced it changes the dimensions slightly thus the end seals have potential to prevent full manifold sealing to the heads. I would recommend a small dab of RTV #2 at the corners of the seals.
steve
my experience has been that as long as the heads haven't been milled that the end gaskets are fine. When the head have been surfaced it changes the dimensions slightly thus the end seals have potential to prevent full manifold sealing to the heads. I would recommend a small dab of RTV #2 at the corners of the seals.
steve
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,838
Likes: 10
From: Austin TX
If the engine is still in the car and the end rails on the block have the holes for the end gaskets with the nipples, I'm back to using the rubber end gaskets. It's simply too difficult to drop the intake perfectly in place,..otherwise you'll mess up the bead of silicone, probably without knowing it, and then you'll have a real leak.
Secondly, we've all witnessed excess silicone stuck in the fuel pump pick-up screen which ain't so great either.
My minority opinion.
Secondly, we've all witnessed excess silicone stuck in the fuel pump pick-up screen which ain't so great either.
My minority opinion.
Pro
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 647
Likes: 22
From: Norwalk CT and Boynton Beach FL
If the engine is still in the car and the end rails on the block have the holes for the end gaskets with the nipples, I'm back to using the rubber end gaskets. It's simply too difficult to drop the intake perfectly in place,..otherwise you'll mess up the bead of silicone, probably without knowing it, and then you'll have a real leak.
Secondly, we've all witnessed excess silicone stuck in the fuel pump pick-up screen which ain't so great either.
My minority opinion.
Secondly, we've all witnessed excess silicone stuck in the fuel pump pick-up screen which ain't so great either.
My minority opinion.
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Explosive Corvettes Ever Made: Power-to-Weight Ratio Ranked!
Joe Kucinski
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvette Engines RANKED by Peak Torque (70+ Years of Muscle!)
Joe Kucinski
Corvette ZR1X Will Be Pacing the Indy 500, And Could Probably Race, Too!
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvettes Coming to Mecum Indy 2026!
Brett Foote
Top 10 C9 Corvette MUST-HAVES to Fix These C8 Generation Flaws!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Revolutionary 'Corvette Firsts' Most People Don't Know
Joe Kucinski
5 Reasons to Upgrade to an LS6-Powered Corvette; 5 Reasons to Stay LT2
Michael S. Palmer
Racer
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 307
Likes: 0
From: liberty mo
just installed a new intake, the maker said to put a thin film around the water jackets, and a 1/4 inch bead on the block rails, just set it down slowly, align the best you can and it helps to have a friend on the other side to watch and help guide. havent had any problems, everything seemed to seal up nicely, would suggest that after the intake is set down and needs to be moved a liitle to use one of the intake bolts to help align, or this is also helpfull,take a couple bolts of the right size,cut the heads off,and with your fingers screw them down and use them as guide pins,end of worries.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 3,287
Likes: 7
From: n/a SC
thanks for the tips. and yes this is a stock setup.
I have decided to use the rubber end seals and the block does have the nipple holes.
what sealant should I use around the water jackets I have a lot of that RED rtv left over...will that work?
also do I use any of that red rtv on the rubber end seals?
if you guys can help me out with the couple of above questions I will be puttin er on asap!
thanks
I have decided to use the rubber end seals and the block does have the nipple holes.
what sealant should I use around the water jackets I have a lot of that RED rtv left over...will that work?
also do I use any of that red rtv on the rubber end seals?
if you guys can help me out with the couple of above questions I will be puttin er on asap!
thanks
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 7,106
Likes: 38
From: Newark DE
don't use the rubber end gaskets!
use the copper or gray Permatex RTV and put a bead along the front and back block rails, and continue around the water jacket ports. Put a larger amount in each of the 4 corners as tis is nototiously where leaks occur.
Here is a pic of the RTV bead from reinstalling the intake on my '78. Notice the bead also around the water jacket ports plus if you look carefully the extra amount of RTV in the corners:
To help drop the intake straight down so that you don't mess up the bead of silicone when installing it I use a cut off broom handle inserted in the oil pump hole than slide the intake on that thu the distibutor hole. This lines up the intake with the block and it slides down the broom handle and is now perfectly aligned and straight with the block so that it doesn't mess up the RTV bead from having to fiddle with the intake position after it's down.
I've done this everytime on both my '65 and '78 and have never once had a leak.
use the copper or gray Permatex RTV and put a bead along the front and back block rails, and continue around the water jacket ports. Put a larger amount in each of the 4 corners as tis is nototiously where leaks occur.
Here is a pic of the RTV bead from reinstalling the intake on my '78. Notice the bead also around the water jacket ports plus if you look carefully the extra amount of RTV in the corners:
To help drop the intake straight down so that you don't mess up the bead of silicone when installing it I use a cut off broom handle inserted in the oil pump hole than slide the intake on that thu the distibutor hole. This lines up the intake with the block and it slides down the broom handle and is now perfectly aligned and straight with the block so that it doesn't mess up the RTV bead from having to fiddle with the intake position after it's down.
I've done this everytime on both my '65 and '78 and have never once had a leak.
Last edited by BarryK; Mar 17, 2007 at 05:51 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 5,943
Likes: 3
From: Wildwood IL
Eddie
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 3,287
Likes: 7
From: n/a SC
you talking about the side ones right? don't think they're rubber but you wouldn't need any to hold the rubber end seals in place so guess you talking about the side ones.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 5,943
Likes: 3
From: Wildwood IL
Eddie
Racer
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 366
Likes: 1
From: Houston Texas
With my aluminum manifold, the setup shown by barryk was the only method that worked for me. With my stock cast iron manifold, the rubber seals with a dab of rtv where the seal and gasket meet is all that was needed.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 14,375
Likes: 6,374
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
Don't use the rubber gasket end seals - use Ultra-Black Sealant or other good quality RTV. Apply a 1/4" bead on the block ends.
Be sure to put a dab of sealant on the intake manifold bolts - they protrude into the lifter galley, so failure to seal the threads will result in oil seepage onto the intake manifold.
Be sure to put a dab of sealant on the intake manifold bolts - they protrude into the lifter galley, so failure to seal the threads will result in oil seepage onto the intake manifold.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 844
Likes: 0
From: Central KY
Now this is excellent advice! I did similar with metal pins that I slid in the holes for alignment, but modified bolts is even better - even the start of using good studs? Of course with a few on each side you may have trouble getting the manifold to lower down into place. Dry a dry-run (literally) before putting the sealant on the gaskets...
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,269
Likes: 54
From: Orlando Florida
St. Jude Donor '05
Lower the intake in place with dry gaskets and no rubber seals at the end of the block. Verify that the bolt holes line up with the threaded holes in the heads, you might need a intake manifold gasket in a different thickness to get the holes lined up. These gaskets are available in .060" (seems to be the most common size), and many sizes between .030" and .120".
I used shims to align the manifold with the boltholes, I had to buy .120" thick gaskets.
Now that the intake sits at the perfect height measure the gap at the front and rear side of the block... if for example you find the gap to be .350" then you know that a .300" thick cork or rubber strip won't work.
I prefer RTV.
I used shims to align the manifold with the boltholes, I had to buy .120" thick gaskets.
Now that the intake sits at the perfect height measure the gap at the front and rear side of the block... if for example you find the gap to be .350" then you know that a .300" thick cork or rubber strip won't work.
I prefer RTV.