Plastic or Copper Oil Pressure Line?
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Member Since: Mar 2006
Location: Piedmont Va
Posts: 3,456
Received 100 Likes
on
85 Posts
St. Jude Donor '11-'12-'13,'19-'20
Plastic or Copper Oil Pressure Line?
While fiddling with the gauge cluster, the plastic pressure line which was dried out and brittle snapped off in my hand. Should I replace with a new plastic line, or use copper? Anybody have any experince and advise with these? Any idea what came from the factory on a 73?
thanks in advance as always.
thanks in advance as always.
#4
Racer
Be careful. I plumbed a new copper kit into the back/top (and almost unreachable when the engine is in the car) oil port on the new 502, fed it through the firewall when I installed the motor and discovered weeks later when I got around to hooking to the factory (72) oil pressure guage, that the fittings for the copper kit DO NOT WORK on the 72 gauge.
Luckily the local speed shop found an old fitting to adapt the copper line, or I would be struggling to switch back to plastic.
I went with the copper because I had a plastic line let go years ago, but if I was doing it again I would use plastic, which it appears the factory used in 1972.
Luckily the local speed shop found an old fitting to adapt the copper line, or I would be struggling to switch back to plastic.
I went with the copper because I had a plastic line let go years ago, but if I was doing it again I would use plastic, which it appears the factory used in 1972.
#6
Team Owner
Apparently, the plastic one that broke lasted 30+ years. If you replace it with plastic, will 30 years use be long enough for you?
#7
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Jan 2006
Location: Wilmington DE, Drive it like you stole it, 68 327 4 speed coupe
Posts: 8,319
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes
on
6 Posts
While fiddling with the gauge cluster, the plastic pressure line which was dried out and brittle snapped off in my hand. Should I replace with a new plastic line, or use copper? Anybody have any experince and advise with these? Any idea what came from the factory on a 73?
thanks in advance as always.
thanks in advance as always.
BTW my oil pressure reading went up by 10 psi with the new line and was dean on with the new one
#8
Team Owner
Member Since: Aug 2006
Location: Columbia Missouri
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 0
Received 9 Likes
on
9 Posts
when i broke mine, i went to the local parts store bought a cheep 14 dollar guage that came with platic line and new fittings used the line saved the fittings and verified the old guage vs the new for accuratcy
BTW my oil pressure reading went up by 10 psi with the new line and was dean on with the new one
BTW my oil pressure reading went up by 10 psi with the new line and was dean on with the new one
Great idea Sweethence.
#11
Team Owner
Member Since: Oct 2004
Location: Springfield MO
Posts: 23,831
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes
on
6 Posts
St. Jude Donor '07
when i broke mine, i went to the local parts store bought a cheep 14 dollar guage that came with plastic line and new fittings...... used the line saved the fittings and verified the old guage vs the new for accuracy
BTW my oil pressure reading went up by 10 psi with the new line and was dean on with the new one
BTW my oil pressure reading went up by 10 psi with the new line and was dean on with the new one
#14
#16
Team Owner
The one's I see in parts houses are copper allright, and getting high dollar too.....
I played with plastic parts house lines, and they leaked worse than anything, meaning CAT *** TROPHIC very quickly....right there in the garage....hell with that....
second off, the stock OP gauge takes a special fitting that a normal copper compression fitting will NOT work the internal taper is differant for the plastic lines....I didn't find anything that would work...so cut off the fitting, drilled it out to 3/8 inch and sweated in a normal 1/8 NPT fitting to 1/8 comp tube adaptor...like screwed into the engine block....
the way to keep the copper from fatiguing and snapping is to coil up about 2" diameter of excess line into a large 'spring' looking that takes the engine vibration outta the pix....the gauge end is fine...obviously...
it's the ONLY fix I found when my OEM plastic line finally snapped about a year ago.....
I played with plastic parts house lines, and they leaked worse than anything, meaning CAT *** TROPHIC very quickly....right there in the garage....hell with that....
second off, the stock OP gauge takes a special fitting that a normal copper compression fitting will NOT work the internal taper is differant for the plastic lines....I didn't find anything that would work...so cut off the fitting, drilled it out to 3/8 inch and sweated in a normal 1/8 NPT fitting to 1/8 comp tube adaptor...like screwed into the engine block....
the way to keep the copper from fatiguing and snapping is to coil up about 2" diameter of excess line into a large 'spring' looking that takes the engine vibration outta the pix....the gauge end is fine...obviously...
it's the ONLY fix I found when my OEM plastic line finally snapped about a year ago.....
#17
Its not a good Idea at ALL to use copper lines for "fuel" or "oil". Engine vibration will cause the copper to flex at the connection points and quickly crack. Use the Plastic or an upgrade to plastic if there is one.
#18
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Member Since: Mar 2006
Location: Piedmont Va
Posts: 3,456
Received 100 Likes
on
85 Posts
St. Jude Donor '11-'12-'13,'19-'20
I bought a plastic line kit from Napa and cleaned up and re-used the fittings at the gauge with the new compression sleeve. Haven't fired it yet but it appears to be nice and secure.
Thanks for the reply's!
Thanks for the reply's!
#19
Melting Slicks
#20
my preference is -4 AN stainless braided hose with teflon liner. Earl's "speed-flex", for instance. -4 instead of -3, to get better needle response at the gauge. it does make a difference (if you've got a halfway decent gauge). I sheathe it with heat shrink to protect other stuff from abrasion, and to hide it.
with the plastic hose, you run the risk of inadvertently melting it from header heat, exhaust heat riser, EGR tube, (of course you carefully ran it around those hazards), and then you lose oil pressure as it squirts all over your engine compartment.
with the plastic hose, you run the risk of inadvertently melting it from header heat, exhaust heat riser, EGR tube, (of course you carefully ran it around those hazards), and then you lose oil pressure as it squirts all over your engine compartment.