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The Fusible Link Thread [merged]

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Old 05-08-2007, 02:56 PM
  #21  
RAGTOP75
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Ok.......here's where I am. I connected the battery and nothing...then I checked voltage at the started and ther is power there. I also followed the red wire out of the connection on the firewall side of the driver's side to the alternator and got power at the alternator. What do you suggest I do next? I only have a red wire and a black going to the battery side of the solinoid. Tightened those down and also put on some new wire, the old stuff was crusty looking...but I did it right in either case....suggestions please!!!!!
Old 05-08-2007, 02:57 PM
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S489
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there might also be one sticking out of the wiring harness just behind or near the windshield washer motor
Old 05-08-2007, 03:01 PM
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RAGTOP75
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I was wondering if that was a fusable link.....I was hoping it wasn't......it looks like a mother to get at. I'll go back to look at it again. What else could it be???? There is NO power to the fuse box either!!!!!
Old 05-08-2007, 03:26 PM
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Yes....it had continuity..thanks
Old 05-08-2007, 03:29 PM
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mikep3
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Default Fusable link in starter cable

I lose one and replaced the starter cable assembly
http://www.zip-products.com/Zip/prod...BCF621D77F2330
Old 05-08-2007, 04:09 PM
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S489
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there is a red wire from the terminal block on the driver fender well to the fuse block, can't remember if it has a fuse link, but don't think so. would have to break out the diagrams. it goes right into the harness at the terminal block. hope you find the prob without having to take the fuse box apart . . .
Old 05-08-2007, 04:18 PM
  #27  
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Default Fuseable links vs. fuses

Is there any real advantage to one over the other? Can a fuseable link be replaced by a fuse in that line?
Old 05-08-2007, 04:33 PM
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Yes...I found that when I took it apart...there is power on one side of the terminal block...but I have no power at the fuse block. I think I'll take the dash back out and start over.....I doubt that there is any fuses etc. under there but I have run out of ideas...thanks for your input. Larry
Old 05-08-2007, 04:49 PM
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The fuse links can be replaced with a fuse and it will work, BUT. It would need to be a large slow blow fuse. Fuse links are not designed to blow if you get a spike on the line. It is designed to burn if you get a dead short to ground.
I don't like them much and they are a manufacturing/cost compromise, I am replacing mine with some pretty stealth looking circuit breakers. They should do the job nicely,m but cost a LOT more than a fuse or a fuse link.
Old 05-08-2007, 05:14 PM
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S489
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sent PM; pls check soon . . .

gotta go ->

Last edited by S489; 05-08-2007 at 05:23 PM.
Old 05-08-2007, 05:33 PM
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jetweezil
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Everything went dead. I had the alternator checked and it's fine.
I will start with the battery this weekend and work from there in to the rest of the system.
Thank you very much for the response.
Old 05-08-2007, 05:34 PM
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jetweezil
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WOW.
You guys are great. I will take the pics and advice that was given and let you all know how things went.
Old 05-08-2007, 05:53 PM
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thanks guys, appreciate your help and ideas. I am learning.
Old 05-08-2007, 07:29 PM
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A fusible link is just a thinner wire. I forgot the calculation. but lets say you starter wire is 16 gauge...the fusible link is a 14 or 12 guage (depending on calculation)wire soldiered in. The theory is that if you over load the system you will have a controlled burn in the harness on the thinner wire.

Jim
Old 05-08-2007, 08:03 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by SIXFOOTER
The fuse links can be replaced with a fuse and it will work, BUT. It would need to be a large slow blow fuse. Fuse links are not designed to blow if you get a spike on the line. It is designed to burn if you get a dead short to ground.
I don't like them much and they are a manufacturing/cost compromise, I am replacing mine with some pretty stealth looking circuit breakers. They should do the job nicely,m but cost a LOT more than a fuse or a fuse link.
I've got a big circuit breaker for under the hood, but the trip amperage is probably quite a bit higher than the old fuseable links.

BTW, does anyone know the fuseable link sizes for a 77?
Old 05-08-2007, 08:18 PM
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Circuit Breakers are rated in Amps and Volts and your right, they have different trip characteristics. If you have a CB rated for up to 40 volts or so and under 50 amps you should be good.
Old 05-08-2007, 08:47 PM
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The difference is that fusible links are NEVER supposed to fail. Said another way, there should be no reason for a failure in the line with a fusible link unless someone working on the car has made an error [generally, has caused a direct short]. Fused circuits have devices on them that can fail and cause an overload. Fix the device and replace the fuse. There are lots and lots of GM cars still on the road that have never had a fusible link failure and never will... unless Bubba gets to them!

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To The Fusible Link Thread [merged]

Old 05-08-2007, 08:56 PM
  #38  
SmokinBBC
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Originally Posted by jdp6000
A fusible link is just a thinner wire. I forgot the calculation. but lets say you starter wire is 16 gauge...the fusible link is a 14 or 12 guage (depending on calculation)wire soldiered in. The theory is that if you over load the system you will have a controlled burn in the harness on the thinner wire.

Jim
If the starter wire gauge is 16, then wouldn't the thiner wire (fusible link) would be 18 or higher?
Old 05-08-2007, 09:05 PM
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shafrs3
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Originally Posted by SmokinBBC
If the starter wire gauge is 16, then wouldn't the thiner wire (fusible link) would be 18 or higher?
Yes that's right, higher number means thinner wire. my link is 14ga on my '72.
Old 05-08-2007, 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by I'm Batman
BTW, does anyone know the fuseable link sizes for a 77?
I'd bet it's 14ga like my '72. I don't think they make a bigger one.


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