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Well I finally got around to dropping the differential. The yokes have .140 of play. What are the odds that that's all that's wrong? I'll go in there and take a look but have a feeling that I'm going to need to take it somewhere. Any recommendations in the Atlanta area for a good diff man?
Well I finally got around to dropping the differential. The yokes have .140 of play. What are the odds that that's all that's wrong? I'll go in there and take a look but have a feeling that I'm going to need to take it somewhere. Any recommendations in the Atlanta area for a good diff man?
The diff yokes are easy to replace unless the end mushroomed. I opened mine to replace the yokes and found my posi case was cracked.
Then if you need further rebuild, I used ZIP for a new gear set and rebuild. They are listed on the left as a sponsor for the forum.
I ordered a rebuilt diff from Zip, should be in any day now. Also ordered the rebuilt yokes. Willl it be hard to get the circlip on them? Any other concerns, things to watch out for, when installing the yokes?
(sorry to hijack but this popped up at the perfect time
I ordered a rebuilt diff from Zip, should be in any day now. Also ordered the rebuilt yokes. Willl it be hard to get the circlip on them? Any other concerns, things to watch out for, when installing the yokes?
(sorry to hijack but this popped up at the perfect time
You will need a 90 degree Snap Ring pliers to install the snap rings. Available at just about any auto parts store.
After you install the yokes, you need to check the gap between the end of the yoke and the shaft. There are different opinions on the gap, but I am shooting for between .005 and .010 on mine.
Here is a pic of what I am referring to. Shaft pin is in middle with the yoke ends on both sides.
I like the pics of your wife better than that old crappy differential
Anyway, put a feeler guage in there. Although it is hard to tell, the last pic looks as if the right yoke has significant end play.
Also, as long as you have it open, inspect the posi case for cracks around the shaft holes and large/small window.
Here's a pic of what a crack looks like. Look at the bottom of the case right above the ring gear. Crack starts at large windown and goes down to the right.
Also, shoot a PM to either Tracdog ar GTR1999 and ask them to take a look at the pics.....
I like the pics of your wife better than that old crappy differential
That's funny.....she's my daughter....LOL. You're not the first person who has said that.
I called a guy who rebuilt my Pontiac 400 heads about going through the diff, and he can do it. I am now debating if I want to send it out or do it myself. I've already got the yokes. Isn't a basic rebuild - inspection, installation of bearings, clutches and setting proper gaps? I saw that Zip has the bearings and clutches for right at 300.00. I figure my machinist would probably charge me 1000.00 so that would save me 700.00 that could go towards all of the other stuff that needs replacing at the rear.
It's definitely due for a complete rebuild. The right stub axle is mushroomed badly and will need to be cut out. You need a new set of gears. The pattern has run off the edge on the drive side. As always the posi case needs to be radiused and polished after it is checked for cracks. You need to take a close look at the housing where the seal is for the right stub axle. With that much wear on the stub it may have cut into the housing.
Mike
You will need a 90 degree Snap Ring pliers to install the snap rings. Available at just about any auto parts store.
After you install the yokes, you need to check the gap between the end of the yoke and the shaft. There are different opinions on the gap, but I am shooting for between .005 and .010 on mine.
Here is a pic of what I am referring to. Shaft pin is in middle with the yoke ends on both sides.
Thanks, also I am assuming that it is not critical that the yokes are "indexed", matched, or both at the same position 12:00, 2:00, etc, to each other. Am I correct in this assumption?
DT
That's funny.....she's my daughter....LOL. You're not the first person who has said that.
I called a guy who rebuilt my Pontiac 400 heads about going through the diff, and he can do it. I am now debating if I want to send it out or do it myself. I've already got the yokes. Isn't a basic rebuild - inspection, installation of bearings, clutches and setting proper gaps? I saw that Zip has the bearings and clutches for right at 300.00. I figure my machinist would probably charge me 1000.00 so that would save me 700.00 that could go towards all of the other stuff that needs replacing at the rear.
Well based on Traccdogg2's assessment, you have a bigger issue than you think.
Before you decide what to do, you should read the info that is posted by GTR1999 on rebuilding one of these. Also ask him for his rebuild paper so you can get an idea of what it takes. Do you trust your Pontiac guy? Has he done diff rebuilds before?
Originally Posted by tracdogg2
It's definitely due for a complete rebuild. The right stub axle is mushroomed badly and will need to be cut out. You need a new set of gears. The pattern has run off the edge on the drive side. As always the posi case needs to be radiused and polished after it is checked for cracks. You need to take a close look at the housing where the seal is for the right stub axle. With that much wear on the stub it may have cut into the housing.
Mike
No....it's not sounding good at all. Thanks for the advice guys.....
My machinist has a guy who is a differential specialist and he's says that he knows Corvettes. I don't mind spending the money....I just want it done right.
Would I be better off buying a 3.36 from zip (are they any good?) Also I'm not sure what's in there now....(2.73?)
With the condition of my pumpkin, would I get my core money back if I did do the zip thing?
I am going through a diff rebuild myself including a new R and P. I chose to stay with the 3:36's but found out that several companies require different series posi units to match their rings.
I was going to go with Richmond then found out that I need a series 4 carrier, not the original 3 that GM gears use.
I know some brands are direct replacements so get advise before ordering to make sure they are quality and not cheap knock offs.
I am going to do my own rebuild as I have done with my Muncie, trailing arms, frame, PS, head lights, etc., BUT... I do have a mechanic looking over my shoulder.
The 273,308,336,355 370 373 390 (411 & 433-Tom's) all fit a 3 series case. GM 411 456 need the near obsolete 4 series case.
The are many ways to built these,from ok to the best built. Do your homework.
You will need a 90 degree Snap Ring pliers to install the snap rings. Available at just about any auto parts store.
After you install the yokes, you need to check the gap between the end of the yoke and the shaft. There are different opinions on the gap, but I am shooting for between .005 and .010 on mine.
Here is a pic of what I am referring to. Shaft pin is in middle with the yoke ends on both sides.
what stops the yokes from in to far and setting against the shaft ?