joeveto

What do you guys suggest, when it comes to removing the cylinder heads? Is it an altogether easier job if you remove the engine (taking that hassle into consideration), or is it easier to leave the engine in the car?

I'm not sure what I want to do yet. If I pull the engine, I'm going to go a lot farther than just cleaning up the cylinder heads.

Thanks in advance.

PatsLs1vette

i did it in the car the other day no problem at all,but like you said if you pull the motor out then you could do everything you wanted to do to it now,then later on.just depends on what your looking to do.

MikeC

I would say it is easier to leave the engine in and pull the heads, just be careful you wouldn't want to scratch the paint.

78Vette-SA

What is it you're trying to acocmplish? As above, it would be much easier to pull the heads then the engine. However, is that going to do for you whatever it is you need.

As you can see from this shot, a few bolts and the heads would be off on my 78.

nunus79

I've changed heads without taking the engine out. Make sure you've eaten your Wheaties, though. Some of those heads get pretty heavy with your arms extended over the fenders. I've bolted on small lengths of chain to the ends of the heads for gripping points. I guess it would be easier with 2 guys or a shop crane.

Jughead

I've done heads twice(not on my '70) and agree with nunus, two heads (arms) are better than one if the engine is in the vehicle. The chains sound like a good idea too. If I remember correctly, there are small metal dowels at the top of the head for placement. So you won't be able to slide the head off.

KenSny

Joe, I've been debating something along these lines myself. I want to do a cam and head swap. I also need to replace the front and rear seals, and fix the oil pan leaks, etc. I really am not looking forward to removing the hood, radiator, shroud, and A/C condenser parts. Looks like it may be easier just to pull the engine, unless I have to pull the 4-spd with it......

john's '81 mouse

Ken, I did the exact engine rebuild you are talking about doing in my '81 last fall. I did remove the radiator, and radiator support, which needed some minor repair, while removed anyway, but I did NOT remove the hood, or the A/C condensor. Once the radiator and support are removed, you can tilt the A/C condensor enough to get the old cam out and the new one in, without removing or unhooking the A/C condensor. (At least I could on my '81). Head removal was not all that hard, nor was the pan, once I unbolted the idler arm from the frame and dropped the steering linkage.

In additon to new front and rear main seals, I also replaced both main and rod bearings and the new oil pump with a new melling stock unit. Was a lot of work, and took some time, primarily due to my need to clean and repaint engine block, heads and all other associated parts, prior to re-assembly.

KenSny

john's '81 mouse - Thanks, I'm not concerned about the heads or cam work as I've done it many times on other cars. And I did replace the pan gasket just after I got the car (so those bolts should still be fresh to lossen), but now the seals are leaking, at least the front one is for sure. I was looking at the radiator, shroud, and condensor assembly and trying to picture it in my mind as to how to get it all out or moved around without taking off the hood. Sure looks like a BIG PITA no matter which way you go. Certainly not like removing one from a '56 Chev where you can darn near stand in the engine bay to get things done! I really did not want to disconnect the A/C and have to go thru all that trouble on top of everything else.

glen242

Ken:

Don't have air. Removed the rad and shroud and loosened the rad support enough to tilt it foreward to get everything out without removing the hood.

That said, if I ever have to take the rad out again, I will go with electric fans. You cannot believe the PIA it was to put everything back. Took two of us and the removal of the right front 'A' arm bolt to slide everything in. On my '76, that is the shroud from HELL. Yours may be easier as the fan shroud is different (I think).

rob75383

My $.02
Remember to drain the coolant from the block before you remove the bolts.
Either remove one bolt from the water pump and let it drain, or siphon the coolant out from somewhere.
It gets kinda annoying when you pull your head bolt out and coolant starts spraying.

KenSny

Larry - I think I'm going to bite the bullet and remove the hood. I just don't see how to get my fingers and a wrench in there to remove the condenser stuff. Also, it just seems that the radiator and shroud will be an "easier PITA" without the hood in the way. I wonder if anyone has left the shroud, radiator, and condenser "together" and just shifted them forward (without removing them completely) enough to clear the cam. I've informed the wife that she will be needed for some grunt work this spring.....

I actually had to help a guy cleanup a mess once because he "forgot" to drain the coolent before he removed a head. We dropped the oil pan and there was at least a pint of coolent with the oil. Ended up blowing out all the oil passages with an air hose and got all the "droplets" out.


[Modified by KenSny, 8:09 AM 10/30/2001]

ddecart

Unless you have other reasons to pull the engine, it's a pretty easy job with the engine in the car. No need to get into a bigger job than necessary if you're not looking for more to do. You could pull and replace the heads in less time than it'll take to pull the engine out.

KJL

John,
You replaced the main and rod bearings with the engine in the car? I did not think that was possible laying on your back!!! :eek:

john's '81 mouse

Yep, it is possible and I did it. Not too hard to do, really, but a little on the messy side, since engine tends to drop some oil on your head/face at various times. I got a LOT of really thick cruddy oil to drop down and out, when removing the main bearing caps.

I replaced all by removing and replacing one rod or main cap at a time. I loosened all main bearing caps, but did not remove, except for the one at a time process. After all new mains, and rear seal was installed, then I torqued the main bearing caps to specs. I moved from the front to the rear, doing the main bearings first, then went back and replaced the rod bearings, front to rear, again doing one at a time.

The standard bearings in my 350 showed a lot of wear, probably due to metal in engine from the very worn down camshaft lobe I had, but the crankshaft journals, both mains, and rods, looked really great, with no grooves or ruff spots. I just replaced old bearings with new standard bearings, and with the new stock oil pump, have really good oil pressure now.