Hadez

We have installed the Dragvette 6 Link kit about a month ago. The installation went smoothly and I like it a lot as I am 99% positive it has fixed my wheel hop issue and a few other items. Also when test fitting my new wheels last night I checked the camber and it was still set at perfectly 90* after probably 1,000 miles of hard driving. But I do have some observations and questions....

When the car is in the air I can rotate easily by hand both the upper and lower links throughout the entire range of trailing arm travel.

When put the car back on the ground the lower link is INSTANTLY about 50% stiffer while the upper link still moves freely with no noticeable resistance. I can still turn the lower link by hand...but it takes considerablly more effort.

After driving around say 500+ miles the lower link has stiffened to the point where I can't rotate it by hand anymore but with vice grips gripping lightly I can rotate it again. The upper link is still just like it was...unchanged and rotate freely by hand.

So now we are at where the bottom link is stiff and upper link moves freely. I test fitted my new wheels last night and checked the camber at its still perfectly at 90*. Again...car up in the air the bottom link now moves freely again...but as soon as I put the car on the ground it was about 50% stiffer again.

I spoke with Steve at Dragvette who has been extremely helpful and said that this is okay with what I am observing and that it is most likely the lower link is really doing a lot of work keeping everything aligned properly resulting in it being too stiff to move by hand. Don't know if this makes a difference but car has been aligned with toe at 0* and had a recent differential rebuild that is still very tight and C-clips are perfect.

I hope to take her out to Moroso tonight to see how she hooks and if I still have wheel hop. Funny thing is that I only have wheel hop under 2 different conditions. When the streets are wet and only at the track. I tested on some wet streets the other day and did not have any wheel hop for the first time ever so I am hoping for no wheel hop at the track tonight.

So what are your experiences with your 6 link systems?

glenn64vette

I'm VERY interested in this.

84rzv500r

As explained on the other place you need to remove the c-clips or run tele half shafts...

What kind of pivot do you have on your trailing arm?

Hadez

I've got the regular plain offset trailing arms with stock attachments, etc. I read the previous posts by TT and found all the CAD drawings. I totally understand (I think) where they are coming from and how all the geometric angles come together. The problem I am having is that it seems like everything is good the first 50~100 miles and then something changes or puts so much pressure on the lower rod that I can't change it by hand when car is on the ground still. I put back in air and re-measure and all is good...drop on ground and all is good initially...but something is changing ever so slightly over time to cause my problems so I have no idea where to begin.

Where did you guy your half shafts like those? I am thinking that this might be the better solution vs. all the trial & errors waiting around till I drive a few hunderd miles to see if its binds or not.

shafrs3

You absolutly need to remove the "C" clips. You've got an 8 link with them in, doesn't work well.

Hadez

keep the suggestions and tips coming...we will get my $hit figured out here soon enough with your help. If I understand correctly the C-clips are designed to keep the side yokes from moving outwards? and now since I have the 6 liink installed this should control the side-to-side movement of the trailing arms resulting in controling the side to side movement of the half shafts and therefore I do not need c-clips? correct? on my thinking?

Will I run into any other issues if I remove the c-clips such as alignment, etc.

63mako

I was considering the Dragvette setup. Seems like Smart Struts, Dual mount rear spring and lowering the rubber frame to trailing arm stops to keep from getting too much squat would accomplish the same end result.

shafrs3

That's it, the top link takes place of the halfshaft in providing the upper link.

With the six link the yokes need to be able to float in and out of the diff. The fact that your upper link is unloaded is because the halfshaft still is. As far as alignment, you may need to check this after the C clips are removed.

CorvetteDave01

I haven't installed my 6-link DV setup yet, but I thought you could do this with or without the C clips on the stubshafts? Also, just a thought, but don't the bottom links/rods deal with a lot more of the weight of the car than the top links when the car has weight on it? Also the rear monoleaf spring pulls inward, so this bottom link has more stress here as well doesn't it? I would guess that this would cause more stress on the threads than on the top link(s). Someone is probably going to correct me on this somehow...

Gordonm

I have removed my C clips from mine and the ylinks are not to stiff in any position. I think you are getting some binding due to the c clips still holding the shafts. Remove the clips. They are doing nothing for you now.

84rzv500r

The rear must settle on these cars... I used spherical Joints on the pivot that allow for the range of motion without binding....

The Half Shafts are custom and come from the local OTR truck driveline shop.

Hadez

okay...I will remove the c clips and see how that goes for me. Thanks for the tips, etc.

Manuel Azevedo

In looking at your half shafts, they are moveable in and out. So with them built like that I would not remove the clips at all. That would only defeat your half shafts from moving on thier splins. As far as the bottom links being tight they will be. The wieght of the car on the wheels is pulling on them as well as the wieght is pushing in on the top, so I see no problem in them being tight with the wieght of the car on them. Looks like a nice set up you got there. Manuel

Manuel Azevedo

And should of said this before also. Don't remove those clips!! Your movements in and out of your modified half shats looks to be more than the shafts are installed into the spider gears. So they will most likely pull out of the spider gears in use!

84rzv500r

Dude, I left my C clips in... That way I can use any diff... My shafts allow for the difference in length !!


I don't have any problem with my 6 link setup... We're talking about alleged binding of the Dragvette setup!!

Belgian1979vette

Hadez

Well....I have been tackling a few othe items on my list today ignoring the 6 link until next weekend when I get up the energy to drop the rear. Anyway...at the end of today I checked the rods again and suddenly on of the top rods not only twisted easily...it also wiggled darn good on its mounting point on the diff. It is strange how I was rotating the top rod and then after I got pissed and yanked on it the whole mounting point broke loose on the diff. Somehow the mounting screw on the top rod that goes to the diff worked its way loose. The other side seems fine. Anyway...I got the access holes drilled from the inside of my car to more easily drop the diff and if my new beefy 3" half shafts arrive with spicer joints I will be very busy next weekend dropping my rear, pulling c-clips, re-checking every darn nut/bolt, etc. Then wait and see after some more fun tire burning times how she does without the c-clips.

glenn64vette

Hadez

LOL!!! I am still working on it. I just got my new 3" half shafts with 1350 spicers and so I am painting them before I install so I can do everything at once. Also I realized that I have the crappy u-joints in my driveshaft so I am taking the drive shaft to have spicer 1350's installed. Then finally re-assemble everything, setup the specs adjusting the rods, camber, etc. and then finally back on the road again. Hopefully this weekend she will be back on the road again.

84rzv500r

I put another 100 miles on my 6 link setup yesterday...