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Pinhole leak in Edelbrock intake manifold

Old 08-10-2007, 03:26 PM
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Silver73SB
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Default Pinhole leak in Edelbrock intake manifold

After I finally got my 383 together and have it running great I notice a few drop of coolant by the back bolt on the intake (performer RPM). When the engine is hot and can clean the area with a rag and I see two drops appear. It looks like there is a pinhole in the aluminum casting. Is there anything I can do with it short of pulling everything apart and getting a new intake. Everything is new and I really don't want to add a can of stop leak.
Old 08-10-2007, 03:48 PM
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Jud Chapin
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If it's new and under warranty, I replace it. Otherwise, assuming it's aluminum, I sure it can be soldered.
Old 08-10-2007, 04:07 PM
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Bill Z
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Originally Posted by Silver73SB
After I finally got my 383 together and have it running great I notice a few drop of coolant by the back bolt on the intake (performer RPM). When the engine is hot and can clean the area with a rag and I see two drops appear. It looks like there is a pinhole in the aluminum casting. Is there anything I can do with it short of pulling everything apart and getting a new intake. Everything is new and I really don't want to add a can of stop leak.

Like he said, if it is under warrantee, take it back.

If not, and you want to show the car, take the manifold off, reach inside with some JB Weld and coat the inside real good. After it dries, you should be good to go.

If you don’t care to show the car, put the JB Weld on top.
Old 08-10-2007, 04:30 PM
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Silver73SB
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Originally Posted by Bill Z
Like he said, if it is under warrantee, take it back.

If not, and you want to show the car, take the manifold off, reach inside with some JB Weld and coat the inside real good. After it dries, you should be good to go.

If you don’t care to show the car, put the JB Weld on top.
I think I am stuck with this manifold since it took me 2 1/2 years to get everything together. I have never worked with JB weld so would I have to drill a shallow hole to give the JB weld something to hold on to? I plan to drive not show the car so I am not overly concerned about looks at this point. I will get a new manifold over the winter.

Thanks for the help.
Old 08-10-2007, 07:01 PM
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bozzman3
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If this intake is indeed porous,I would think that Eldebrock would warrantie it.
Old 08-10-2007, 07:29 PM
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ghoastrider1
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your other option is to have a small bead welded on it. it can be done with engine in car. A quick hit with a grinder will dress the weld. If you happen to have a "dressed" manifold, you can have it done off the car, but then ,if its off the car,, I would send it back.
Old 08-11-2007, 04:28 AM
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If it is a very minor leak (water bead showing up over time), you may be able to peen it closed. Get a round nosed punch and a lightweight hammer; mark the porosity hole and start peening around the hole; then work inward to cover the whole area. Just hammer it enough to put a light dent in the surface. Working the metal in this way will likely seal up the hole on an aluminum manifold. If you are pretty good at it, you might not even notice the difference from the cast surface.
Old 08-11-2007, 06:35 AM
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silver 76
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I have used a hammer and center pounch and or drift pin to crimp or move the material to seal the hole. Don't know if that would affect returning it.
Old 08-11-2007, 06:44 AM
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stingr69
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Buy another one, make the swap, put he bad one in the box and return it for a refund.

-Mark.
Old 08-11-2007, 07:37 AM
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Jud Chapin
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Originally Posted by stingr69
Buy another one, make the swap, put he bad one in the box and return it for a refund.

-Mark.
Smart man! But I wouldn't be doing any hammering or anything else on the original manifold or you may end up owning two.

Last edited by Jud Chapin; 08-11-2007 at 07:39 AM.
Old 08-11-2007, 08:25 AM
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Tim H
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See thats that shoddy workmanship of the Edelbrock USA company.
My China made intake at 1/3 of the cost is holding up fine.
CHINA is number 1, CHINA is number 1!!!!!!!!
























At screwing America with cheap parts, and yet we buy them like we need to save money for gas in the Hummer HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA !!!!
Oh hell what am I going to do with this new set of 15 Pro Comp rocker arms??????????
Old 08-11-2007, 08:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Silver73SB
I think I am stuck with this manifold since it took me 2 1/2 years to get everything together. I have never worked with JB weld so would I have to drill a shallow hole to give the JB weld something to hold on to? I plan to drive not show the car so I am not overly concerned about looks at this point. I will get a new manifold over the winter.

Thanks for the help.
If you're sure where the leak is and go the route of fixing it on the car remove any bolt or other brackets that may be in the way. Using a dremmel tool create a shallow "V" where the suspected leaks are. I'D go about 1/8" deep. Mix the JB Weld per instructions and install with your fingers making sure to get the area as smooth and flush to the surface as possible. When the JB Weld cures, you can hand sand or carefully use the dremmel to smoth out the area. A quick shot of aluminum paint from a spray can and you will barely notice it if you notice it at all. They also make a 5 minute curable JB Weld that is compatible with any heat, oil or vibrations you might see. Since it doesn't seem you can get a refund I would for sure take the JB Weld approach. Granted pulling the manifold and installing a new one would be first choice but if you can see and get to the areas in question, the above fix will work fine. Take pics and keep us update.

ltlevil
Old 08-11-2007, 09:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Silver73SB
After I finally got my 383 together and have it running great I notice a few drop of coolant by the back bolt on the intake (performer RPM). When the engine is hot and can clean the area with a rag and I see two drops appear. It looks like there is a pinhole in the aluminum casting. Is there anything I can do with it short of pulling everything apart and getting a new intake. Everything is new and I really don't want to add a can of stop leak.
By the back bolt? Can you show us a pic?Are you sure its not around the bolt?There is no coolant going across the intake in the back.If it is the intake I vote for return with a call to Edelbrock saying 10,000 guys on the forum said that Edelbrock was great and would make it right.
If your going to repair do it from the inside.
If nothing else after blocking off heater core what would be so bad about some Alumiseal stop leak? Be easy guys.
Old 08-11-2007, 09:23 AM
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Originally Posted by DWncchs
By the back bolt? Can you show us a pic?Are you sure its not around the bolt?There is no coolant going across the intake in the back.If it is the intake I vote for return with a call to Edelbrock saying 10,000 guys on the forum said that Edelbrock was great and would make it right.
If your going to repair do it from the inside.
If nothing else after blocking off heater core what would be so bad about some Alumiseal stop leak? Be easy guys.
There may be no coolant crossover there, but the back 2 bolts still go into a head passage. $10. says if he puts thread sealant on those bolts, the leak will stop.
Old 08-11-2007, 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by BillPk
There may be no coolant crossover there, but the back 2 bolts still go into a head passage. $10. says if he puts thread sealant on those bolts, the leak will stop.
I think there's a good chance you would win that 10 bucks.I also wonder if the pinhole is in the area that the gasket is cut out on the rear passage.Pics would help.
Old 08-12-2007, 10:15 PM
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All,

Thanks for all the information and help. I will put some sealent on the intake bolt next weekend to see if that helps but I am sure it's a pinhole because I can see it bubble out when the enging is hot. This is an old picture but it shows how much accumulates after 20 minutes of running. There is enough room to get to the pinhole so I am going to try the repair route next weekend.

Thanks again




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Old 08-13-2007, 12:18 AM
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billla
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Originally Posted by DWncchs
By the back bolt? Can you show us a pic?Are you sure its not around the bolt?There is no coolant going across the intake in the back.If it is the intake I vote for return with a call to Edelbrock saying 10,000 guys on the forum said that Edelbrock was great and would make it right.
If your going to repair do it from the inside.
If nothing else after blocking off heater core what would be so bad about some Alumiseal stop leak? Be easy guys.
I'd have a tendency to look for an intake gasket leak at the rear head cooling passages or something coming up through the bolt. The cross-section of the intake is pretty thick there - I wouldn't say it CAN'T be a pinhole leak...but that would be the last thing I'd suspect.

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Old 08-13-2007, 12:53 AM
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easiest way is to weld it up.
Old 08-13-2007, 06:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Silver73SB
All,

Thanks for all the information and help. I will put some sealent on the intake bolt next weekend to see if that helps but I am sure it's a pinhole because I can see it bubble out when the enging is hot. This is an old picture but it shows how much accumulates after 20 minutes of running. There is enough room to get to the pinhole so I am going to try the repair route next weekend.

Thanks again.
Nice looking engine compartment!That intake looks like it just came out of the box.
Did you put sealer on the gasket around the water passages on both ends of the intake with a TAIL going down to the block?
The pinhole to the surface is one concern but I wonder if you have coolant going the other way--down under the intake into the oil ???
I really dont think a surface repair on the pinhole will work for any length of time.A repair from the backside would be the best way whether you weld it or use sealer or JB weld.So that brings you to the removal of the intake and at this point I think a call to Edelbrock explaining the long buiding process might get you a new intake or at least a repair and test by them.
Remember if that intake is porous it might have holes where you cant see them.
Old 08-13-2007, 09:01 AM
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Drill a hole right at the leak and tap it for a pipe plug.

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