Even with a new hurst comp plus shifter linkage set I still had to bend the 3/4 rod. Finally have the linkage done and am trying to install the reverse light switch.
Anyone have pics of one installed on their muncie???
I've looked thru all the parts suppliers and AIM and the pic is not very detailed. Not sure if the rod should go above or under the mounting bracket. AND there are two holes where the rod could mount. Advice? PICS?





Also, according to the Hurst instructions if I have a consol car then i have to install this spacer b/w the chrome shifter and the shifter mechanism. BUT it says to put the bolts thru from the passenger side and into some bracket that isn't included. I tried flipping the locking bracket to the other side to function like the diagram describes but now that bracket on the driver side restricts movement of the shifter and i can't switch gears. I could grind this down to allow movement but I must be doing something wrong. Maybe the spacer is not needed??





See the threaded bracket preventing any tilt shifting movement.



This is the old hurst shifter i pulled off the trans. See that tiny bracket that is built into the shifter mechanism for the bolts to thread into??
The new shifter doesn't have that.



Any pics would be greatly appreciated.

 

Man - you are soooo close. Here's a link with some photos of one installed. The link goes on the top like you have, but I think the wires from the switch should go more towards the front, which would rotate the switch somewhat. Maybe that way the lever would be in the right place? The screws in the long slot allow you to adjust it. You can probably bend that link somewhat too...


http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1520917

 

Thanks Z-man. That helps.
I bought the reverse switch hardware from Doc Rebuild and they told me I would have to bend the rod to fit right.
Anyone know why that switch bracket that the rod connects to is an "L" shape and why both legs of the "L" have holes in it? which one does the rod go to? the long one with one hole or the short one with a large hole and a small hole?
The leg with 2 holes seems to line up with the small hole on the switch itself. I don't remember seeing a spring anywhere.
Your thoughts???

Any thoughts on the damn shifter spacer?

Here is a better pic of the "L" shape dog leg I am talking about.
Note the holes on each leg.

 

I think holes are automatic vs. manual?? It shouldn't matter which one you use as long as it works.

I can't figure out which thing is preventing the shifting. Can you circle it or something? Maybe someone else knows...

 

I will just install it and leave it loose so when i get the engine and trans in I can play with the lights. Just will have to remember its not hooked up. I don't want to keep bending the rod if its wrong and it break.

This should help explain...

 

Here's what I've done.
Everything works perfectly.
Shifter shifts into all gears with a little muscle. Gears are tight but will slide easier with some miles on it.
If you notice that little plate that was restricting my side to side neutral movement, i've grinded down the plate a bit to allow movement. Works great. Will decide once the trans is in the car whether or not if I need the spacer.
As you can see everything is POR-15'd. Rust is my all time enemy.



Here is the reverse light mounted. I used a meter to determine when the switch was open and closed. When the long leg was straight up the lights were off (full resistance on the meter) as the long leg was pulled towards the tailshaft of the trans the meter would read zero resistance meaning the light would come on. You have to be careful b/c as the long leg traveled to the rear of the trans it would cycle and open and close at different distances. So when you mount it you have to bend the rod connecting the reverse trans bracket so when in neutral the meter shows a reading and the lights are off, but when you put the trans in reverse the meter shows exactly zero resistance. Make sure you wiggle the reverse gear around to make sure that no matter how much you push it the switch still shows the lights coming on.


I then routed the wires using a aluminum bracket I made with a hose for protection so I could run the wires up thru the consol along the shifter and to the connection in the car. Alot easier than running it thru the firewall like the Aim shows. I am confident the wire won't interact with the shift linkage.

 

I think you have the bolts going in from the wrong direction. The part with tabs that the bolts screw into belongs on the other side. You will be able to see that the tabs line up with the cut outs on the shifter body on the other side (may not fit all the way in due to console spacer). Switch it around and I think you'll have it.

 

I partially agree with you except for this diagram on the instructions from Hurst made specifically for the vette.



If I didn't see these directions I would have done what you said and left as is, but since I wanted to follow directions I had to grinde that bracket you speak of to allow the shifter to move freely.
There has to be a reason hurst drew up a diagram and included it on the instructions. right?

 

just went through this, if you use the spacer, and you do need to use it for correct aligement with the console, then you use either lock nuts or nuts with lock washers. If the piece is a stiffener and is only good with out the spacer. you now have the reverse light corrrect btw

 

I installed mine with the bolts coming in from the driver's side and the nut plate on the passenger side. Not sure why they have that section in the instructions but there is no clearance problem with the bolts on the drivers side on my 72.

It is a bit tight getting a wrench on the bolts but that's why God created gear wrenches with swivel heads.

cc

 

Good job. Looks nice and clean!

You know. The more I look at your problem and the photos, the more it looks like the bolts should come in from the other side, and then the tabs from that plate would fit right into the slots in that bracket. Might be worth a try as long as you have everything out.

(The directions don't quite correspond to what you have, that's for sure...)

 

Thanks guys. I appreciate the comments.
I remember when I pulled the muncie and old hurst out of my car it was a tight fit to get a wrench in the consol to get the shifter off so the trans could slide out underneath. I will check it out when I install it this sunday and see if the bolts can actually fit the other way.
Enjoy your weekend I'll be

 

I'll be installing a Hurst shifter in my '70 as part of an engine rebuild project. No doubt, the information in this thread will come in handy.