GrandSportC3

I've seen 1.3x's and many low 1.4x's with my Tom's setup and no issues... You should be able to leave very hard with that setup. If your clutch is strong enough, I'd try to leave at 5000+ RPM, slipping the clutch.. You should be able to get some nice launches that way... (However, if you are running 1310 u-joints on the driveshaft, I'd be careful )
When I had my 5-speed, I tried launching at 4500 with my stock rear end.. Blew off my tires every time as my suspension wasn't dialed in properly and my tires were too narrow (28 x 11.5 ET Streets). The best 60' time with the old 383, the little ET Streets and the 5-speed was 1.591...

Van Steel

We only encountered the shock problem on 3 out of 40 kits we sold. I now tell everyone that they may have to relocate the upper shock mount.

Dan

69ttop502

Yea Dan, I bought my stuff from you and you did tell me when I bought it. It is usually the case where I am one of the lucky ones. Murphy's law, right? By the way Dan, do you guys carry the 12 bolt Posi's yet. I want to get it to go with the rest of the stuff. If so what is necessary for me to do. I know the case needs clearanced.

Thanks,
Bill

Van Steel

Yeah we sell them. I don't have them listed on my site though. The case needs to be a certain wideth. Not all are and a core charge for a diff is added if this is not the case you have. The only way to measure it is if you pull the stock posi and take your measurements. I only have 1 case left that is the correct wideth. Out of 30 I had here only 3 were the correct units and I can't say for sure which yrs most likely had it or didn't have it. I believe the earlier ones did but not 100%.

Give me a call and I can give you the measurements.

chuck d

Nice looking set-up! Bet it is a lot stronger than the wimpy 10 bolt.

ZL1powr

Jim ... Thanks ....Hope to report on results Saturday.

ZL1powr

My drive shaft has 1330's.

Previously I was launching at 1800 slipping the clutch so I have a lot of technique playing around to do. Unfortunatly I won't have my suspention dialed in because I havn't got the shocks yet and I know these tires will be traction deprived.

I think the steel spring is going to help my launch. Previously I was really squatting. This spring feels very progressive in rate. Not too harsh with small suspention displacements but it gets extremly stiff with a little bit of deflection. I have a set of Bilstien extreme sports that I could put on. With those shocks I would anticipate very little deflection on launch. Do you think they would be benificial?

GrandSportC3

You need to be really stiff in the rear.. My spring is 550 lbs/inch and in combination with the QA1 shocks (set to 10 - 11 clicks), I'm getting about 1 inch travel in the rear which is just about perfect.. Anything more than 1 inch travel might mess up your geometry.
What kind of springs are you using in front? Stock small block springs usually would work great but any tighter springs will limiit front end weight transfer. Well, if you put a big enough tire in the rear (i.e. 28 x 12.5 - 15 ET Street tire), you should still be able to get into the 1.40's for 60' times.. I don't know too much about the Bilsteins but if they are tighter than stock shocks they should help.. Ideally, I'd run adjustable QA1's in the rear, set very tight.. However, you don't want tight springs in front.. Ideally, you should run 90/10 front shocks for weight transfer. Competition Engineering adjustable front shocks are only about $40/each and you can put the regular shocks back in after racing if you don't want to run the drag shocks on the street.. The 90/10s will help your traction a lot..

As for the 1330 u-joints.. I hope that you have a driveshaft loop

I use solid 1350 spicers on my driveshaft.. 1330's should be ok but by far not as strong as the solid 1350's

427Hotrod

Mine works best pretty stiff in the back too. I have a 5 leaf Daytona spring with an added main leaf. The QA-1's helped me a lot. They do exactly what is needed..control squat and rebound...they get stiffer both ways with every click. I was able to tweek the right a hair tighter to make it leave straighter.

Do you have any snubbers? If it's stiff enough you won't need them....but with a stout clutch it's going to hit it pretty hard.

Actually, my very best 60' was with a 2500 or so launch and a bog.....but it wasn't the best overall run.

I sure like the Soft Lok clutch now though!!


JIM

Van Steel

W/GrandsportC3 & 427Hotrod. You need to go w/QA1 Adjustable rear shocks.

ZL1powr

Do you guys carry them?

GrasportC3 and 427Hotrod .... Thanks for the input. Friday should be interesting just getting a feel for the increased power level and playing with launch technique.

My drive shaft u-joints are solid 1330 spicers and hopfully they will live. I had 1350's when I was running an M22 but they won't fit with the TKO. I hope my drive shaft loop is not excursized.

My clutch is just a centerforce DF but it worked very well with my previous engine. I used a lot of slip to control traction and the Center Force has held up well and provided consistant engagement. We will see how it handles the added power but my past experience was that it will transmitt a good bit more torque than the tires can handle. I hope to have QA-1 shocks and better tires for my next outing.

427Hotrod

My Centerforce did great up to the 700 HP range. But when it got into the 800+ range...it wasn't too happy. It would *run away* and never recover if you flat footed it and the tires hooked up.

Keep some RPM up so it has a chance.

Only 2 more days!!


JIM

rpoL98

I bought a Tom's 12-bolt setup and 1480 half-shaft axle set over 10 years ago, and it was about $5k back then, kit & kaboodle.

red79vette454

We've never had any problems with 1330 U-joints on the drive shaft. We are using the billet caps with them. On occasion we have applied around 1200 HP on the juice, and they have taken it. Although we did twist a 3" drive shaft once.
I wouldn't worry too much about those 1330's. You'll need to be concentrating more on getting that thing hooked up.

Good luck!

GrandSportC3

I've read somewhere that 1330's are good to about 700 HP. Obviousely, that was wrong...

I agree that hooking up the car is the most important task now.. I believe that something has to be done to bring the front up. Some nice 10.5" wide slicks would help too

ZL1powr

I just added up my total. I was $6612 not including shipping costs which were probably another ~$200. So close to $7k in the setup now.

12 bolt rear -- $2900
1480 halfshaft / axle / spindle -- $2255
trailing arms -- $500
safety link -- $595
Spring -- $232
Heavy duty rear cover -- $130

red79vette ....That is good to hear and thanks

GrandSportC3 .... Maybe for my next outing......Jim

Van Steel

Yes I do and you have a PM.

ZL1powr

Just placed the order for the double adjustable QA1's.... Thanks, Dan

GrandSportC3

What rear tires are you going to use for the track this time?

69 N.O.X. RATT

Good luck...........looking forward to hearing the results. If this car is going to be more of a drag car than a street car, you might want to consider an auto.