Rear main seal replacement cost at a shop?
#23
Drifting
All you have to do is jack up the car, drain oil, remove oil filter, remove transmission dust shield, drop idler arm from frame which drops suspension, unbolt and drop oil pan, unbolt and drop rear main, push out and replace top half of seal, pull out and replace bottom half of seal, and put everything back up in the same order but backwards.
It's a good time to upgrade to a one piece oil pan gasket, and yes, a quick scrape of the oil pan gasket mating surface to clean it up before installing the pan is a good idea.
New filter and new oil, bolt the idler arm back up, and viola...DONE.
I did this just a few months ago, and it took me just under two hours from start to finish.[/QUOTE]
Your quote...
DB, I have never done one in the car and I have heard of a tool that can be used. Some have called it a "sneaky pete". Is that tool needed?
I have been delaying the replacement of the rear main in my "80 and thinks I may takle it this weekend. Does the upper part of the seal slide out fairly easy?
It's a good time to upgrade to a one piece oil pan gasket, and yes, a quick scrape of the oil pan gasket mating surface to clean it up before installing the pan is a good idea.
New filter and new oil, bolt the idler arm back up, and viola...DONE.
I did this just a few months ago, and it took me just under two hours from start to finish.[/QUOTE]
Your quote...
DB, I have never done one in the car and I have heard of a tool that can be used. Some have called it a "sneaky pete". Is that tool needed?
I have been delaying the replacement of the rear main in my "80 and thinks I may takle it this weekend. Does the upper part of the seal slide out fairly easy?
Last edited by Aggitated Monkey; 11-09-2007 at 12:13 AM. Reason: deleted quote prompts
#24
Team Owner
Member Since: Aug 2006
Location: Columbia Missouri
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It might be helpful, but I don't use one. I use the long wooden handle of a paint brush. It won't harm the journals and is long enough to get the seal started pushing through. Once you see it pop out the other side just grab it with a pair of needle nose pliers and pull it the rest of the way out. Installing the new half can be tough, but once it's oiled well and started it will slide in with minimal fuss.
#25
Drifting
It might be helpful, but I don't use one. I use the long wooden handle of a paint brush. It won't harm the journals and is long enough to get the seal started pushing through. Once you see it pop out the other side just grab it with a pair of needle nose pliers and pull it the rest of the way out. Installing the new half can be tough, but once it's oiled well and started it will slide in with minimal fuss.
#26
rear main seal
[QUOTE=funymuny;1562668211]Replaced the rear main seal on my 82 a little over a year ago...full-service type of local mechanic. Close to $600, just under. Metro Atlanta....fwiw.
Saw you had a rear main seal problem. I also have an 82 Vette collectors edition with a leaky seal Did it get fixed ok?
Saw you had a rear main seal problem. I also have an 82 Vette collectors edition with a leaky seal Did it get fixed ok?
#27
Use the Fel Pro Seal. - Rear Main Seal
1959-85 Chevy L6/V6/V8
2-piece fluoroelastomer #:2912
Well worth the money no leaks!
Easy DIY Job!
1959-85 Chevy L6/V6/V8
2-piece fluoroelastomer #:2912
Well worth the money no leaks!
Easy DIY Job!
Last edited by babbah; 04-15-2016 at 01:43 AM.
#28
rear main seal
Use the Fel Pro Seal. - Rear Main Seal
1959-85 Chevy L6/V6/V8
2-piece fluoroelastomer #:2912
Attachment 47972522
Well worth the money no leaks!
Easy DIY Job!
1959-85 Chevy L6/V6/V8
2-piece fluoroelastomer #:2912
Attachment 47972522
Well worth the money no leaks!
Easy DIY Job!
#30
#32
You are pretty harsh.
If a guy brings me his Vette I am going to remove, hot tank, and repaint his pan, thoroughly clean the pan rail of the block, clean all the pan bolts, and paint them. This job is worth every bit of 5-600 in my shop with the over head of the equipment, and the building plus the guarantee that it is in fact fixed. By the time I pay my expenses I probably make less than you do an hour at your job.
Just sayin
If a guy brings me his Vette I am going to remove, hot tank, and repaint his pan, thoroughly clean the pan rail of the block, clean all the pan bolts, and paint them. This job is worth every bit of 5-600 in my shop with the over head of the equipment, and the building plus the guarantee that it is in fact fixed. By the time I pay my expenses I probably make less than you do an hour at your job.
Just sayin
#33
Originally Posted by centuryoldracer
If a guy brings me his Vette I am going to remove, hot tank, and repaint his pan, thoroughly clean the pan rail of the block, clean all the pan bolts, and paint them. This job is worth every bit of 5-600 in my shop with the over head of the equipment, and the building plus the guarantee that it is in fact fixed. By the time I pay my expenses I probably make less than you do an hour at your job.
Just sayin
Just sayin
Last edited by babbah; 04-15-2016 at 03:59 PM.
#34
Edit
BTW the engine in your avatar is pure awesomeness!
Last edited by centuryoldracer; 04-15-2016 at 04:16 PM.