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Hi 71 350/270 Muncie m21 or m20 not sure.
When the car is cold (and it is cold up here) I can only get into 1st if I'm fully stopped. From first it won't go into 2nd but goes into 3rd and 4th. Refuses to go into 2nd unless the car is warmed up about 10 minutes. Never had this problem in the summer.
I topped up with 80w-90 castrol, but i don't know what the original owner had put in it. Is it possible he put in something heavier than 80w? I don't see a drain bolt on my muncie either? Should I drain and refill with 80w-90. Do I need to siphon it out with a scavenger.
The oil would have to be sucked out. If it shifts OK warm, I don't think its a synchro problem. Sometimes the input shaft can stick in the pilot bushing. You'd have to pull the trans to lube the bushing.
I did the 10 second test and it didn't grind when put in reverse.
Also when hot and engine off and foot not on clutch pedal it is not possible to shift from neutral into any gear.
If you can't figure out what it is I guess I'd better drive it down to Florida!
I did the 10 second test and it didn't grind when put in reverse.
Also when hot and engine off and foot not on clutch pedal it is not possible to shift from neutral into any gear.
If you can't figure out what it is I guess I'd better drive it down to Florida!
from my personal experience, it sounds like one of 2 things.
Some molybdenum, not a great deal ... but does have lotsa other wear metals ... i.e. calcium, phosphorous, sulphur & zinc. Base' viscosity about what you'd see in 40W.
Some molybdenum, not a great deal ... but does have lotsa other wear metals ... i.e. calcium, phosphorous, sulphur & zinc. Base' viscosity about what you'd see in 40W.
Tried adjusting clutch rod but no change still won't go into 2nd when cold.
I'll pick up a bottle of EOS tomorrow and see how that works out.
Thanks.
Your clutch disengagement was confirmed with the 10 second spin down.When it didnt grind going into reverse from neutral thats about as good as you can get.Generally a binding pilot bushing will not pass that test so that probably is ok also.
Hope the EOS helps.I have had trans. shift easier after adding moly but dont remember if cold was an issue.I have heard that some lubricants wont allow the brass synchro to act as a brake which would mean the synchro would not be effective.I was told the moly will not interfere with the braking effect of the synchro.Maybe some others will chime in on unlike metals lubricants.
Bought the EOS and was going to drain the tranny and put it in but then my fuel pump went and now it's just too cold to work on it in the barn.
So I oil sprayed the frame and put the car away until the weather creeps up above freezing. Sorry but I'll let you know around April 1,2008.