rag joint rebuild
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 232
Likes: 0
From: Henrietta New York
rag joint rebuild
Have been reading posts on the subject, bought a kit just to see the replacement parts.
Questions:
1) If I machine up my own replacement pins to match the factory ones and have them peened over like the originals using the rubber replacement disc should I be OK? (kit pins/bolts are not correct dimensionally)
2) Should the pins be heat treated (case hardened) or is a std. carbon steel ok to use?
I would like to rebuild my original unit vs. the price of a new one. I have access to CNC lathes, peening machines and/or a press to hit the end.
Thanks
Questions:
1) If I machine up my own replacement pins to match the factory ones and have them peened over like the originals using the rubber replacement disc should I be OK? (kit pins/bolts are not correct dimensionally)
2) Should the pins be heat treated (case hardened) or is a std. carbon steel ok to use?
I would like to rebuild my original unit vs. the price of a new one. I have access to CNC lathes, peening machines and/or a press to hit the end.
Thanks
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 6,001
Likes: 112
From: Saginaw Michigan
Gary,
You got there first.
Jim
PS There were two different rubber and cotton cloth laminated discs. Those with manual steering (and all Corvettes) had 7 laminations. So the disc was nearly all cloth with a little neoprene rubber in between holding it together. It was quite stiff for better handling and road feel.
Those for power steering applications had only 4 laminations. Therefore, more rubber and less cloth. This disc isolated the hydraulic noises from the gear valve. It also absorbed road shocks and inputs better than the manual steering disc.
Both discs were the same thickness (0.38 inch as I recall).
Both discs had metal screening molded into the face of the disc to pass horn relay current through the flexible coupling unit, down through the steering gear into the chassis.
All rebuild kits that I have seen were always 4 ply not 7. And none featured any method of providing a ground path.
I am quite sure that the GM stop pins were not hardened. They were probably cold formed so the surface was work hardened. But there was no heat treatment.
Last edited by Jim Shea; Feb 26, 2008 at 05:38 PM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 232
Likes: 0
From: Henrietta New York
Jim,Gary & Stinger,
Let me first say I totally respect your feedback,guidance & experience. I follow/read your posts regularly. Thank you. I will take your advise and get a GM joint. I am also curious by nature... I am going to play around with the pins, riveting process etc. Having access to machines and processes just makes it fun. Thanks again for your advice!
Respectively,
Joe
Let me first say I totally respect your feedback,guidance & experience. I follow/read your posts regularly. Thank you. I will take your advise and get a GM joint. I am also curious by nature... I am going to play around with the pins, riveting process etc. Having access to machines and processes just makes it fun. Thanks again for your advice!
Respectively,
Joe
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 15,156
Likes: 3,965
From: Connecticut, USA
There is only one rag for L69-82 doesn't matter if it's PS or manual.
one for the 67-e69 and 2 for the 63-66 std or tele column.
The 67-82 are still avail the early ones discontinued a long time now.
one for the 67-e69 and 2 for the 63-66 std or tele column.
The 67-82 are still avail the early ones discontinued a long time now.
