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Son-of-a-!#%^& Clutch not disengaging

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Old 03-29-2008, 12:55 PM
  #21  
Little Mouse
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Originally Posted by 63mako
Another spot to look would be the flywheel. The less expensive billet flywheels are usually Ram flywheels. They require a springless disk or the springs will push against the center of the flywheel. Result: chutch won't disengage. Solution: change to springless disk or change to standard configuration flywheel.
You have a PM
Old 03-29-2008, 01:40 PM
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63mako
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Here is a listing on the Ram Billet steel flywheel:
http://www.truckaddons.com/Catalog/s..._flywheels.htm
Notice on the ad the red note at the bottom. A lot of the resellers of these (Jegs, Summit) don't let you know that they don't work with the standard disks. I think it is a bunch of that they will sell you this and not specify that in their advertising. They are advertised as a bolt in replacement for a cast flywheel. It requires having to drop the whole trans, clutch assembly and go buy a new flywheel, then reassemble.. I wouldn't recommend the spingless discs for a street car.
Old 03-29-2008, 02:36 PM
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This is a Bubba way,but you can take the bottom z bar linkage to the fork rod,and lengthen it some.Reenforce it,cause there is ALOT of pressure on it.This will give you sopme length.I would back off the top adjustment to about half way,then lengthen the bottom to a distance where there is pressure just starting on the fork,reenforce,then you have some room for adjustment up top.It's a Bubba way,but it will work,and you don't have to pull the trans back out.
As long as it's not the problem like Mako was speaking on.I have replaced clutch setups before where everythinbg was IDENTICAL...just new,and have had this problem.I pulled the trans,checked everything again to double check,put all back together,and same problem,so I invited Bubba over for supper.
Old 03-29-2008, 03:10 PM
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JustinD
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Originally Posted by 63mako
Here is a listing on the Ram Billet steel flywheel:
http://www.truckaddons.com/Catalog/s..._flywheels.htm
Notice on the ad the red note at the bottom. A lot of the resellers of these (Jegs, Summit) don't let you know that they don't work with the standard disks. I think it is a bunch of that they will sell you this and not specify that in their advertising. They are advertised as a bolt in replacement for a cast flywheel. It requires having to drop the whole trans, clutch assembly and go buy a new flywheel, then reassemble.. I wouldn't recommend the spingless discs for a street car.
Uh-oh, I have this one.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...1&autoview=sku
I guess I WILL be calling summit and raising hell. Lucky you came along and said something or I would be messing around for ever. Although I am rather disappointed. What clutch should I go with?

Last edited by JustinD; 03-29-2008 at 03:12 PM.
Old 03-29-2008, 03:23 PM
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I guess I will have to go with the centerforce which says on it that is works with clutches built to OEM specs. Time to call summit and get a no cost exchange.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku
Old 03-29-2008, 03:37 PM
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SOB's won't give me anything off the flywheel I have to exchange it and pay another 70 damn bucks. But he said it would work so it better. To bad it is going to be another couple weeks before I get it back together.

Last edited by JustinD; 03-29-2008 at 03:54 PM.
Old 03-29-2008, 05:02 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by JustinD
SOB's won't give me anything off the flywheel I have to exchange it and pay another 70 damn bucks. But he said it would work so it better. To bad it is going to be another couple weeks before I get it back together.
I went with this one. SFI approved
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FIDAN...spagenameZWDVW
Old 04-11-2008, 08:55 PM
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Well, I finally got it all back together. The good news is the clutch disengages a little when the linkages are maxed. The bad news is, it drags a little. I even threw in the longer pivot ball I got before I put it together. I am not sure what to do. I was going to try drilling some new holes in the z-bar but it appears to be made of some material that brand new drill bits barley leave a mark on.
Old 04-11-2008, 09:17 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by JustinD
Well, I finally got it all back together. The good news is the clutch disengages a little when the linkages are maxed. The bad news is, it drags a little. I even threw in the longer pivot ball I got before I put it together. I am not sure what to do. I was going to try drilling some new holes in the z-bar but it appears to be made of some material that brand new drill bits barley leave a mark on.
Damn you should not be near any all out of adjustment with a new clutch.
If you start cobbling can you lengthen the lower rod.

Last edited by Little Mouse; 04-11-2008 at 09:20 PM.
Old 04-11-2008, 09:21 PM
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How shall I lengthen that? The problem is, with the way it is adjusted the throwout is rubbing on the pressure plate. Which we can have.
Old 04-11-2008, 09:30 PM
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I missed something in the replys that I asked about on the first page.


Are you using a short release bearing?
Old 04-11-2008, 09:35 PM
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Originally Posted by JustinD
How shall I lengthen that? The problem is, with the way it is adjusted the throwout is rubbing on the pressure plate. Which we can have.
Lets see you have no play in the clutch pedal, throwout bearing is up against diaphram, you push it down bareley realeases the clutch, maxed out adjustment, even lenghtened the pivot ball. let me see is there more than one way to put the throwout bearing on the clutch fork. did you happen to take pictures of the pressure plate.
Old 04-11-2008, 09:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Ironcross
I missed something in the replys that I asked about on the first page.


Are you using a short release bearing?
I don't know. This is what I'm using. zoom clutch
Old 04-11-2008, 09:37 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Ironcross
I missed something in the replys that I asked about on the first page.


Are you using a short release bearing?
Thats what I have been wondering the throwout bearing came with the clutch.
It sounds like he needs a longer throwout bearing.
Old 04-11-2008, 09:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Little Mouse
Lets see you have no play in the clutch pedal, throwout bearing is up against diaphram, you push it down bareley realeases the clutch, maxed out adjustment, even lenghtened the pivot ball. let me see is there more than one way to put the throwout bearing on the clutch fork. did you happen to take pictures of the pressure plate.
Nope, no pictures. I have the bearing side so it rides up against the pressure plate.
Old 04-11-2008, 09:39 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by JustinD
I don't know. This is what I'm using. zoom clutch
Picture shows a borg and beck but you have a diapham is that right.
Old 04-11-2008, 09:41 PM
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Yup, it is a diaphragm style.

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Old 04-11-2008, 09:46 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by JustinD
Yup, it is a diaphragm style.
It just sounds like throwout bearing is to short. Don't mod anything
no reason to cobble on it.
Old 04-11-2008, 09:48 PM
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You could eliminate one issue by figuring out what plate they sent you. There is flat cone and bent cone pressure plates. The bent cone uses the short bearing. The flat cone uses the long bearing. The difference in plates are detected with out them being installed.
Old 04-11-2008, 09:51 PM
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I'm guessing this is a "bent" style.


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