I AM SO FED UP WITH THE D***AMNED CORVETTE!!! :mad :mad . My rear bleeders are leaking fluid, it doesn't matter how well you tighten them. I took them to the shop yesterday and told them to "FIX IT!!!!" I get it back... a day later, and bam... problem again... So once again i drive it to the shop, tell them to "FIX IT" and that i don't wanna deal with this EVER AGAIN. So the vette is sitting in the shop right now, i'm utterly fed up, i HATE Corvette braking systems. I'm spending WAY too much money on this crap. And it's still not working. And of course w/ the brakes equivalent to those on a horse carriage... i can't even drive the car anywhere. :mad :mad Looking at it parked was not the vision i had of it. :cuss :mad

 

Most of us have had those nightmare projects too. I've had way more than I care to remember. As frustrating as it is, the joy of driving it makes it all seem worth it in the end. If not, a good therapist or a bottle of cold beer should do the trick. :D

 

My brakes were a nightmare also. Are your calipers new? I replaced every part on my brake system and could not get the brakes bled. Turns out the bleed screw holes were not properly machined.

I hope you get it corrected with the minimum of aggravation.

 

no doubt, Ive been working on my breaks on and off for months and they still dont work right. Ive had the tires off for more time than ive been able to drive it. Ive replaced calipers, lines, pads, and the master cylinder. it was getting better up to the master cylinder and then it got worse.

 

My rebuild kit from Muskegon Brake (370 bucks) worked GREAT.

 

Yeah, i have new calipers, pads, lines, etc etc... i might be thinking my bleed screw holes aren't machined right either... tha'ts where the fluid is leaking... were yours leaking out of the bleeder aswell? Thanks. I might just send the rear back to Stainlesssteelbrakes and get a replacement pair.
:(

 

Stingray brakes 101: There are two bleeder valves on the rear caliper and if you ask the mechanic how many bleeder valves are on the rear and he says one then don't let him work on them!

Stingray brakes 102: When there is a leak in a caliper then you should replace the entire caliper. The only time you should rebuild a caliper is when you have the right tools, such as a vise to hold the halves in place while applying the 140 ftlb of torque(or something like that...don't have my reference material with me), the right tools (not a pipe wrench Bubba), the right seals (have more than one available and check with manufacturer of those exact calipers for the right ones), the right solvent (no Bubba, not gas or diesel fuel), and a parts car to run to the store for last minute stuff.

Stingray Brakes 103: Bubba probably had the car before you did and rebuilt them with vise grips and a pipe wrench (look for duct tape holding the e-brake cable) so going to a reputable parts store such as Kragen/Checker/Schucks and asking for the stock replacement will usually "fix" a bad brake system.

Stingray brakes 200: Once you get the brake system back to stock then they will get the job done.

Also, check this forum's tech tips for brake bleeding, print it, and give a copy of it to your mechanic. I would also give the mechanic a test of the material before letting him release a death trap.

 

Yep Jenny, that is where one was leaking. If you backed the bleeder out a little bit, you could rock the screw back and forth in the threads.

Don't even think of vacuum bleeding if your bleed screws are the least bit loose, its futile.


[Modified by Rhys, 12:09 AM 12/16/2001]

 

These are 4 brand new stainless calipers; all hardware, brakelines replaced.

 

so replace the bleeder screw/insert/caliper!!

next problem??

:blueangel:

 

My problem is that it's been Fkd up since Thanksgiving. :rolleyes:

 

Nice car Jen, hang in there, it shouldn't be to hard to fix your leaks. You need to make your significant other do the work. :lol:

 

eeek that sucks!!!

id be PO'd too if i took it to a mechanic and they couldnt do it right...

(not that i would take it to a mechanic...)

 

yeah after tinkering around with it for a month i just don't have the patience anymore... Grrrr. :( This is the last resort.

 

well look on the bright side!!!

(theres a bright side??) :lol: :lol:

once you get those brakes build up good with SS calipers then it prolly wont give you any crap for 3-4 years....(cept for pads mebbe...)
:)

 

I feel your pain. I just finished the water pump from hell project myself.
js

 

You might want to try to remove the bleeder screw completely and check for foreign material. Something might be under the screw preventing it from sealing up. Just a thought. lou

 

Hang in there!! This too shall pass. I know your frustration though. I had my '82 up on stands most of the summer doing some resto to the underside(everything from the tranny back is new or refinished). When I finally got it on the road (it wasn't even two weeks), I hit a F*^&#@% Deer!!!!!!!!!! $2,300 damage. So, now I'm going to paint the whole car-I hate mismatched paint jobs. Good luck on your brakes. Keep this in mind....All cars will give you the same headaches with age. It just bothers you more to be without your Vette, because they're so damn much fun to drive. :seeya

 

OUCH! Sorry to hear about the deer!! Yeah it'll be over sometime.. i'm just so frustrated. Everything seems to take longer than it should.

 

If you got the set of calipers from a particular company, I would return the bad caliper for an exchange. When any of these companies rebuild calipers, they put SS sleeves in the bores only. It's an "old" caliper core. I'm sure some bad cores get rebuilt, thus your problem the the bleeder screw that won't seal. As others have said, I would check for debris in the bleeder screw hole, and also check the bleeder screws for "boogered" threads. If they're OK, it's got to be the caliper "hole" itself. It is frustrating, but hang in there. The more common problem people have after a brake system rebuild is rotor runout causing air pumping back into the calipers. If you replaced the rotors, and have excessive runout, you might have this "treat" in store for you. The cure for this is Zero Tolerance pistons in your new SS sleeved calipers, or shimming/turning the rotors on the car to remove runout. The max runout should be .003 as I recall. Keep the faith :) Chuck