front clip and front fenders
07-03-2008, 09:40 PM
#3
Instructor
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Location: Perkasie PA
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Not sure how much detail you want in a post but Eckler's had a really great book. Looks like they are now DVDs. It is not too hard if you are good with a hammer and stiff putty knife!
Getting the new one on is another story entirely. I recommend no matter what you do you put the windshield and trim back in before you glue everything together. Painful lesson I learned once.
http://www.ecklers.com/search.asp?ac...searchHistory=
Getting the new one on is another story entirely. I recommend no matter what you do you put the windshield and trim back in before you glue everything together. Painful lesson I learned once.
http://www.ecklers.com/search.asp?ac...searchHistory=
07-04-2008, 12:31 PM
#4
I removed my clip using a hammer and several different putty knives and chisels. The front attachment points are bolted in to the radiator support and splash shields, etc, but the cowl area is bonded to the substructure, hence the chisels. I have heard of heat guns to soften up the adhesive, but I didn't need one.
temvette72
temvette72
07-04-2008, 01:09 PM
#5
Mark, I'm doing the same thing Johndeeredale is doing. You speak from experience, anymore helpful hints to pass along? I was going to install the front clip with the windshield and chrome off. I bought the 'Corvette Body Repair Guide' but it didn't offer the insight to the little nuances such as this. Johndeeredale would you post some pictures and information you learned from your experience, I need all the help I can get. Thanks, that what's so good about this forum, don't have to keep inventing the wheel by yourself. The 'been there, done that' is greatly appreciated.
07-04-2008, 09:21 PM
#7
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I am sure there are others who can offer advice too but I have repalced about a dozen of these and have a few tips. You could fill a book on doing it!
Before removal the most important thing is to repair/replace any sagging or shot door hinges. Once this is done align the doors to absolute perfection allowed by the Corvette body and door design. This is super critical because once you peel off the front end you are going to need a solid unmoving item like the door to gap by.
Removing is a hammer and putty knife job with safety glasses and gloves. Pull the hood then remove the inner bolts between the inner fenders and radiator support - three per side. I do not remove the rad support unless the car is wrecked because it serves as another solid point of reference when hanging the new front end. If you have the doors and rad support in place you have a really good chance of getting to done right. Again others may disaggree and if the car is wrecked you may be in a pickle. If the support is all nasty I would recommend replacing it before you remove the front end.
Remove the windshield trim and windshield next. The windshield can be saved by carefully cutting the goo gasket with a tool for this job available anywhere. Looks like a t handle with piano wire. No tool expect to buy a new windshield. They are reasonable at $175 or so.
Front bumper and bumper over rides come off next. Depending on the year this can be easy to brutal but patience is all you need no special training! I tend to leave all the wiring on the car. Unplug or relocate anything attached to fiberglass ahead of the firewall (firewall is ok). Just work your way forward from the junction where the wiring comes out. I usually leave it dangling over the engine. The vacuum tank and lines can be a PITA so I leave as much connected as possible even if I plan to replace it later when I am ready. With the hood off it is easy to get at the wiring and looms for the headlights. Leave the headlights and buckets all in place.
The wiper door needs to come off too which is a PITA in itself. Remove the access panel (louvered door) by taking the screws out of each end. Once this is off remove the nuts and flat plates along the firewall on each end where the firewall ends and it curves. You also need to remove the link from the vacuum can to the door. Once these are off the door lifts off assembled. I may have over simplified this but you will get it once you look at it closely. Do not force it once bent they are not too friendly.
Give everything a good look and you should be "free" of any entaglements. Go under the car on each side there are little triangle shaped panels between the back of the wheel well and the start of the firewall. Take these off and keep them around no matter how cruddy they look. If you have side pipes they come off next if not take off the side trim under the doors.
Remember the old front end may be junk but you need to be real careful to avoid breaking the inner supports on the firewall. Starting at the top of the door / base of the windshield stick you putty knife in the joint and tap it in with the hammer. Keep working your way down the joint splitting it as you go. If you are not sure where the panel meets the firewall take some 36 grit paper and sand along. The panel is one color and the glue is very dark. The goal is to separate the outer panel from the inner but leave the goo and inner panel solid. Once you get down the dirvers side repeat on the passenger side. You will be tempted to remove the doors to get better access DO NOT. Just keep driving in the putty knife(s) and start a split. Work the split down and around to the bottom. Once this is done on both sides work across the hood lip the runs along the firewall using the same technique. Here is the other option I have employed lately. I actually use a Sawall and cut the front end off from about 8" forward of the door gap. This lets you get at the firewall to front end joint from both sides once this is cut away. It takes 10 minutes and as long as you are carefull to avoid cutting the vacuum lines and tank on the drivers side or the heater/ac box on the other it is very easy. Either way once this joint is separated on both sides and the hood lip is split you can lift the whole front end off in one piece with a buddy. If you use the Sawall method then go back with your putty knife(s) and peel the panel off from the firewall from both sides.
If you are not discouraged yet I'll follow up with putting it back on. I removed all my picks from my website but I have a fair number of the last '66 I did (featured in Corvette Enthusiast in March or April)
Before removal the most important thing is to repair/replace any sagging or shot door hinges. Once this is done align the doors to absolute perfection allowed by the Corvette body and door design. This is super critical because once you peel off the front end you are going to need a solid unmoving item like the door to gap by.
Removing is a hammer and putty knife job with safety glasses and gloves. Pull the hood then remove the inner bolts between the inner fenders and radiator support - three per side. I do not remove the rad support unless the car is wrecked because it serves as another solid point of reference when hanging the new front end. If you have the doors and rad support in place you have a really good chance of getting to done right. Again others may disaggree and if the car is wrecked you may be in a pickle. If the support is all nasty I would recommend replacing it before you remove the front end.
Remove the windshield trim and windshield next. The windshield can be saved by carefully cutting the goo gasket with a tool for this job available anywhere. Looks like a t handle with piano wire. No tool expect to buy a new windshield. They are reasonable at $175 or so.
Front bumper and bumper over rides come off next. Depending on the year this can be easy to brutal but patience is all you need no special training! I tend to leave all the wiring on the car. Unplug or relocate anything attached to fiberglass ahead of the firewall (firewall is ok). Just work your way forward from the junction where the wiring comes out. I usually leave it dangling over the engine. The vacuum tank and lines can be a PITA so I leave as much connected as possible even if I plan to replace it later when I am ready. With the hood off it is easy to get at the wiring and looms for the headlights. Leave the headlights and buckets all in place.
The wiper door needs to come off too which is a PITA in itself. Remove the access panel (louvered door) by taking the screws out of each end. Once this is off remove the nuts and flat plates along the firewall on each end where the firewall ends and it curves. You also need to remove the link from the vacuum can to the door. Once these are off the door lifts off assembled. I may have over simplified this but you will get it once you look at it closely. Do not force it once bent they are not too friendly.
Give everything a good look and you should be "free" of any entaglements. Go under the car on each side there are little triangle shaped panels between the back of the wheel well and the start of the firewall. Take these off and keep them around no matter how cruddy they look. If you have side pipes they come off next if not take off the side trim under the doors.
Remember the old front end may be junk but you need to be real careful to avoid breaking the inner supports on the firewall. Starting at the top of the door / base of the windshield stick you putty knife in the joint and tap it in with the hammer. Keep working your way down the joint splitting it as you go. If you are not sure where the panel meets the firewall take some 36 grit paper and sand along. The panel is one color and the glue is very dark. The goal is to separate the outer panel from the inner but leave the goo and inner panel solid. Once you get down the dirvers side repeat on the passenger side. You will be tempted to remove the doors to get better access DO NOT. Just keep driving in the putty knife(s) and start a split. Work the split down and around to the bottom. Once this is done on both sides work across the hood lip the runs along the firewall using the same technique. Here is the other option I have employed lately. I actually use a Sawall and cut the front end off from about 8" forward of the door gap. This lets you get at the firewall to front end joint from both sides once this is cut away. It takes 10 minutes and as long as you are carefull to avoid cutting the vacuum lines and tank on the drivers side or the heater/ac box on the other it is very easy. Either way once this joint is separated on both sides and the hood lip is split you can lift the whole front end off in one piece with a buddy. If you use the Sawall method then go back with your putty knife(s) and peel the panel off from the firewall from both sides.
If you are not discouraged yet I'll follow up with putting it back on. I removed all my picks from my website but I have a fair number of the last '66 I did (featured in Corvette Enthusiast in March or April)
07-05-2008, 06:05 PM
#10
Mark, PM sent. Thanks for the write-up
07-08-2008, 05:25 PM
#12
Burning Brakes
WOW Mark, you just talked me out of removing my front clip.....Im doing a complete frame off and there are no doors right now.i guess I could install the doors temporarily with new hinges when it comes time to reinstall the clip again. My clip is good I was just hoping to get to everything behind it to clean it up and might give me easier access to the rocker channels I have to replace. Besides that the clip is very shakey. I dont want to do more damage when I lift the body off. I thought it was a basic job since I see so many cars without clips on them. I was really looking forward to doing every inch of this car over 69 427/400 4 spd. I think Ill give this a second thought though.