69 rear rotors
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 2,429
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From: Tucson AZ
69 rear rotors
one side has "rivets"(?) and the other doesn't. Is this because one side has been drilled out? I ain't drilling without knowing, never done this car before...............
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,337
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From: Norfolk VA
Yes. You must remove the rivets if you plan on replacing rotors. You will hear different reasons for the reason why the rivets were used when the car was built. Some say it is because they were used to hold the rotors in place during the assembly of the car, some say to help keep the rotor "true" to the spindle, etc. They are not necessary to replace if you drill them out to reinstall the rotors. When you replace, be sure to check for runout or you will keep getting air in your calipers resulting in a soft pedal. Btw, the brake system is the same for the whole C3 generation with the exception when the general put stainless steel sleeves in the caliper bores during the 1979 model year.
Last edited by Oldguard 7; Sep 4, 2008 at 07:03 PM.
Racer
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 323
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From: ********** New York
Yes. You must remove the rivets if you plan on replacing rotors. You will hear different reasons for the reason why the rivets were used when the car was built. Some say it is because they were used to hold the rotors in place during the assembly of the car, some say to help keep the rotor "true" to the spindle, etc. They are not necessary to replace if you drill them out to reinstall the rotors. When you replace, be sure to check for runout or you will keep getting air in your calipers resulting in a soft pedal. Btw, the brake system is the same for the whole C3 generation with the exception when the general put stainless steel sleeves in the caliper bores during the 1979 model year.
Race Director
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From: Dayton, Ohio
Racer
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 323
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From: ********** New York
Okay I know what you R talking about the rotor I took off looked like a universal rim does with 10 lug hole but only 5 were use. The new rotors didn't have those just the 5 lug holes. You said
Originally Posted by Oldguard 7
be sure to check for runout or you will keep getting air in your calipers resulting in a soft pedal
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The SS sleeves have no connection with eliminating the runout/air sucking problem.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 6,422
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From: McHenry Illinois
Runout can be caused by warped rotors or a hub that doesn't run "true". It can be corrected by shimming between the rotor and hub. Like mentioned above, it can cause the caliper pistons to constantly move in and out, causing air bubbles to be generated at the seal area, resulting in a soft pedal. It can also cause squeaking brakes at low speeds that quiet down when the brakes are lightly applied.
Dean
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2007
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From: McHenry Illinois
I picked up some shim stock from the local parts store and cut out some washers with siccors. .005" and .002" thickness will probably do it. A .005" shim between the rotor and hub on 1 stud will change the runout by around .010"
Racer
Joined: May 2008
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From: ********** New York
Okay the runout pretains to front & Rear correct cause my prob is coming from the rear. But if I pump the pedal it gets hard again
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 6,422
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From: McHenry Illinois
You presently have air in your brake system and need to bleed it out till the pedal gets firm the first time down. The runout problem "may" cause air to get into the system again, but only after being driven.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 2,429
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From: Tucson AZ
If anyone cares, I'm done and had to order new hardware kit for the parking brake. Thanks for the help. I knew that they had to be drilled out, just wanted to hear from someone else! Thanks C3 T/P
Racer
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 323
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From: ********** New York
This is good news thank you for starting this post. It helped meto learn something new.
