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Old Oct 14, 2008 | 11:46 AM
  #1  
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Default No Key Start

I have 71 Vette and cannot get it to start using the ignition. I have bypassed the ignition for the time being and start it with a manual push button.

The problem started when I could not get the key out of the ignition. I shifted by and forth to park several times and started than shut off the car to see if the ignition would cycle properly. All of the sudden it would not start.

I got it home and found the interlock cable was binding, so I disconnected the cable and manally rotated the lever on the column and removed the key.

I have had the starter bench checked, replaced the ignition, ignition switch and checked the voltage on the fusible links. I have also check the neutral safety switch.

Any ideas why it will not start when the key is turned?

Thanks.

Steve
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Old Oct 14, 2008 | 11:55 AM
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- I am currently having the same problem on my 75 4 speed. I have done all that you have done and it will still not start. Battery is showing 12.5 volts at starter, fuseable links, etc.
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Old Oct 14, 2008 | 11:57 AM
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If you have a tilt wheel and are trying to start it with the wheel tilted all the way up, the linkage to the switch may not be engaged.

DC
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Old Oct 14, 2008 | 11:58 AM
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No tilt here.
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Old Oct 15, 2008 | 07:36 AM
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Just to make sure that our terminology is the same. The ignition lock cylinder is the part where you insert your key. It is in the steering column head. The ignition switch on 1969 thru 1982 Vettes is located down under the dash on top of the steering column.

The lock cylinder plugs into the steering column and engages a plastic gear called a sector. The teeth on the sector engage a die cast rack that pushes and pulls a rod that reaches down to the ignition switch.

There is a fairly common problem on T&T columns where the die cast rack breaks and you may be able to reach certain switch positions RUN, OFF, etc but not others. Most times your ignition key will just turn without any feel or action. Sometimes on T&T columns you can get a broken rack to work by tilting the column all the way up or down.

In order to reach the ignition switch to adjust it or to replace it you will need to remove the column from the car. Some people will just drop it and rest the steering wheel on the seat. (Be sure that you remove the fasteners that attach the lower end of the column to the floor pan before removing the two vertical screws that hold the column up into the dash. You never want the steering column to "hang" by that lower attachment only.)

BTW, there is another ignition switch post on 10/11 - 10/13 that is similar.
Jim

Last edited by Jim Shea; Oct 15, 2008 at 07:56 AM.
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Old Oct 15, 2008 | 08:30 AM
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Thanks. I replaced the ignition lock cylinder and the ignition switch located on the steering column. I have noticed when I turn the key that the first click is dead and the accessories work on the second click. Is there a chance the switch may be in the wrong position?

I will check out the other posting you mentioned.

Steve
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Old Oct 15, 2008 | 11:23 AM
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Can you (or someone) share with me how you check the interlock cable and neutral safety switch? I've had two incidents where the car would not start but the radio etc worked fine (so it's wasn't the battery) and then say a half-hour later it magically worked all fine again. I had a mechanic check out something else on the shifter/trans and he said he found a problem with the interlock and corrected it... but it happened again six or seven drives later.
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Old Oct 15, 2008 | 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by sgreen
Thanks. I replaced the ignition lock cylinder and the ignition switch located on the steering column. I have noticed when I turn the key that the first click is dead and the accessories work on the second click. Is there a chance the switch may be in the wrong position?

I will check out the other posting you mentioned.

Steve
The Accessories position is one click counter-clockwise. The sequence clockwise is Lock - Off - ON - Start.
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Old Oct 15, 2008 | 03:52 PM
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it sounds to me that the ignition switch is way out of position, or the push rod is bent. i think that his "second click" is actually the "on" position. he can't turn the key counter-clockwise to the "acc" position because it's too far out of adjustment.
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Old Oct 15, 2008 | 10:40 PM
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The correct way to adjust the ignition switch is as follows:
Disconnect the battery and it will be best to remove the column from the car.
Push the lower lever on the steering column DOWN.
Now rotate your ignition key/lock cylinder counterclockwise until it stops. (That will place the lock cylinder in the OFF position.)

Remove the two fasteners that hold the ignition switch to the top of the steering column. Unhook the switch from the rod coming out of the steering column head.

Place a small probe into the slider in the switch. Push the slider through the detents until you are at the extreme of travel and the switch is in the ACCESSORY position. (The opposite end will be START and there will be a spring that pushes you out of that position.)

Once you are sure that you are in ACCESSORY now push the slider back two detent positions. This will place the switch in the OFF position. (Just like the ignition key/lock cylinder in the steering column.)

Now carefully reinstall the ignition switch back on the rod coming out of the column head and install the switch to the column jacket with the two fasteners. Be carefull not to move the switch out of its OFF position.

Jim
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