Teflon Tape on fuel line on a 1980 with stock carburetor.
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Teflon Tape on fuel line on a 1980 with stock carburetor.
In order to seal the carburetor fuel line I have to wrap teflon tape
around the fitting. I had a new fitting that screws into the
carburetor in which the fuel line is connected, and installed it to
see if I could seal the fuel line without the teflon tape.
Fuel line still leaked with the new fitting.
On a 1979 I have the fuel line seals to the carburetor without
teflon tape.
Do I need to replace the fuel line from the fuel pump or is
using some teflon tape acceptable?
around the fitting. I had a new fitting that screws into the
carburetor in which the fuel line is connected, and installed it to
see if I could seal the fuel line without the teflon tape.
Fuel line still leaked with the new fitting.
On a 1979 I have the fuel line seals to the carburetor without
teflon tape.
Do I need to replace the fuel line from the fuel pump or is
using some teflon tape acceptable?
#2
Race Director
You definitely shouldn't have to use teflon tape to seal your fuel line. If you must, leave the first few threads uncovered so that a piece won't come loose and enter your engine.
#3
Race Director
Fuel lines shouldn't need teflon tape. That being said I have used it in the past on fuel line gauges that leaked on me. The white tape will disintegrate you have to use the yellow tape
#4
Race Director
Don't use teflon tape. Use teflon paste for natural gas pipe fittings. Works just as good and won't clog your carb if some does break loose.
#5
Race Director
Not an argument just a discussion. As pointed out by another poster above, you don't put the tape on the first couple of threads, no where for anything to go in that case.
Second, are you certain any paste that "breaks loose" is not going to cause any harm to any pin hole passage in the carb ?
Second, are you certain any paste that "breaks loose" is not going to cause any harm to any pin hole passage in the carb ?
#9
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
I have never replaced the line and is probably oeriginal, so
not stainless.
For those recommending paste: what type is it? For
natural gas?
not stainless.
For those recommending paste: what type is it? For
natural gas?
Last edited by mark79,80; 12-09-2008 at 09:48 PM.
#11
Race Director
#13
Race Director
Thats what I thought also but thats on tapered pipe.In the case of the pipe thread the threads are doing the sealing.In this case are the threads taking over doing the sealing or is the added pressure from the lube forcing the tapered seat tighter? Hmmm
#14
Melting Slicks
As far as I know all fuel line is sealed with a tapered seat, the threads don't do the sealing. You don't want teflon tape or anything else to prevent the tapered seats from reaching eachother. They need to reach eachother to seal correctly, the threads are just there to force the tapered seat surfaces together.
However, I can visualize an old or poorly constructed fitting with worn threads having issues forcing the taper seat surfaces to eachother. In this case I would replace the fittings. The teflon tape could be used to fill in the worn threads to force the tapered seats together...but like mentioned above you don't want the tape or paste getting near the tapered surfaces to obstruct a good seal.
Personally I would replace the fitting or section of tubing. I wouldn't take a chance with fuel in the engine compartment.:smash:
#15
Race Director
I think he is referring to the 1" fine threads that seal the inlet/filter housing to the body casting. A common problem with both the older and later qjets. The older had 7/8" threads and the later 1".
They can be helicoiled, the kit is very expensive but you can have it done for aaround 50 bucks.
Here's 1 guy
http://sparkyscarbs.com/
Not condining him, just a lead.
They can be helicoiled, the kit is very expensive but you can have it done for aaround 50 bucks.
Here's 1 guy
http://sparkyscarbs.com/
Not condining him, just a lead.
#16
Race Director
The tape or paste ( for fuel lines ) is a bubba fix at best but if it works then you saved yourself allot of time and aggravation
#17
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Sep 2007
Location: Tucson AZ
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I think he is referring to the 1" fine threads that seal the inlet/filter housing to the body casting. A common problem with both the older and later qjets. The older had 7/8" threads and the later 1".
They can be helicoiled, the kit is very expensive but you can have it done for aaround 50 bucks.
Here's 1 guy
http://sparkyscarbs.com/
Not condining him, just a lead.
They can be helicoiled, the kit is very expensive but you can have it done for aaround 50 bucks.
Here's 1 guy
http://sparkyscarbs.com/
Not condining him, just a lead.
Buy a new fuel line, fitting, carb, hose clamps, anything to make that thing stop leaking. Fiberglass burns very quickly.
#18
Melting Slicks
#19
Team Owner
Either live with a "Bubba" fix or buy a new fuel line. I'd buy the new line...
#20
Le Mans Master
'nuff said about paste vs. tape
Sometimes the problem is simple - the flare is not all the way down into the fitting. Inspect the flare and the fitting and make sure there's not an issue with the fit. Then seat the flare and tighten the fitting.
Seems simple...but it's bit me a couple of times with factory-style fittings. I had a buddy bring me an LT-1 with the factory split block and it was leaking everywhere with tape everywhere....30 minutes later everything was tight with no sealant in sight.
Sometimes the problem is simple - the flare is not all the way down into the fitting. Inspect the flare and the fitting and make sure there's not an issue with the fit. Then seat the flare and tighten the fitting.
Seems simple...but it's bit me a couple of times with factory-style fittings. I had a buddy bring me an LT-1 with the factory split block and it was leaking everywhere with tape everywhere....30 minutes later everything was tight with no sealant in sight.