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thats harder to do with new version, it now comes with a solid piece of aluminum thats about 3/4 inch thick, and the bolts are countersunk into it, so really it looks alot better and you would end up having to use longer bolts
dave
I guess that depends on where the Hydrobooster is purchased from. Some use the thick mounting plates and others use thin mounting plates. Based on the amount the thread left on mine with a thin plate I can't see there being a problem with a thicker plate if the stud holes are counter sunk.
I have been planning on puting the hydroboost system on my '79 but always thought I would do it at a later time. After reading this thread I think I should do it when I redo my interior, as I will be replacing the dash. The car is currently in the shop for a paint job but I should get it back in a couple of weeks. I would like to get that info packet from you as I love saving money. I will forward a PM with my email address.
I have been planning on puting the hydroboost system on my '79 but always thought I would do it at a later time. After reading this thread I think I should do it when I redo my interior, as I will be replacing the dash. The car is currently in the shop for a paint job but I should get it back in a couple of weeks. I would like to get that info packet from you as I love saving money. I will forward a PM with my email address.
Gene I just sent you the information packet. You can always email me back if you have any questions.
This diagram might help you if you're going to make all your own lines. All the fittings are Aeroquip...
Wayne, on your schematic there, I note the often discussed position/orientation of the T in the return line to pump/reservoir....and to say that mine is routed just the opposite, the rack into the stem, and the HB inline across the top....it's a 3/8 T available from Lowes Depot in the PEX plumbing isle...looking for brass fitting....
Wayne, on your schematic there, I note the often discussed position/orientation of the T in the return line to pump/reservoir....and to say that mine is routed just the opposite, the rack into the stem, and the HB inline across the top....it's a 3/8 T available from Lowes Depot in the PEX plumbing isle...looking for brass fitting....
The Hydrobooster only used fluid and pressure when you step on the brake. The power steering pump is going to be used a lot more often and with a much higher pressure and flow than the brake booster. For this reason the 'T' needs to be inserted for the pump to have a straight line return from the power steering. The return line from the booster needs to come in from the side.
I have the serpentine set up, the hydro-boost and the ps pump off a 90 3500 truck. The pump has 2 return nipples, so it solves the "t" issue.
Yeah you got the good power steering pump, make sure you transfer the valve from the back of your stock pump onto the new pump. The extra nipple is a great thing to have.
The '90 Hydro might give you some problems when trying to modify it, you can always email me if you have any questions.
Matt, 2 Questions. Does the info kit indicate the legnth to cut the hb push rod ? Why the need to change the valve ? different line size or diffent pressure ?
Matt, 2 Questions. Does the info kit indicate the legnth to cut the hb push rod ? Why the need to change the valve ? different line size or diffent pressure ?
The valve in the pump is specific to the Vette, a lower pressure than most other pump valves, and it's mostly for the unique Corvette steering components. You'd have to ask Jim Shea more about that. However, using your Corvette valve will keep things healthy in your system, and it'll allow you to keep a standard thread port on the back of the pump instead of the later metric thread port. Bonus.
The pedal rod doesn't have to be a certain length because it'll just move the pedal position up or down depending on where it's cut and threaded. Longer clevis can also change the pedal location, but the threading is key to adjusting it to where you want it.
Some of the later Hydroboosters have an odd taper in the shaft size not long before the eye that gets cut off. That taper makes the shaft too small to thread for the stock 3/8 - 24 clevis and you have to trim back a bit to get the larger shaft diameter you need. This might give you a much lower maximum height for the pedal and that might not be comfortable.
I think they removed their contact info and are only selling them through a vendor. That's two extra people collecting pieces of the pie. I got my lines from them, and a WONDERFULLY crafted accumulator cover from them but alas I think they only go through vendors now.