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Old Jan 17, 2009 | 11:36 PM
  #41  
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I got the pic how do I put in in the reply?
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Old Jan 17, 2009 | 11:42 PM
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Add attachments.
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Old Jan 18, 2009 | 12:33 AM
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Ok I could not get my pic to upload so I borrowed one. This is not my caliper, but you can get an idea of what I am talking about. On my wilwood calipers for the c3 what goes in those shiny circles where the brake pads go inside the caliper?
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Old Jan 18, 2009 | 10:53 AM
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Wow, an old 5025 caliper! Haven't seen one of those in a long time....not really one of Wilwood's finer products- great for a Sprint car or such but found to be too light for high pressure apps where bridge spread is a problem from the lack of stiffness.

Anyhow; nothing goes in those holes. While I have filled them with asbestos some years ago to keep heat out of the caliper, the new pistons are forged and superior to those for both expansion flex and heat rejection.

The new calipers will have a forged piston that is thicker walled and appears more rough inside. As well as having the Wilwood name in them and a production number.
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Old Jan 18, 2009 | 10:57 AM
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I was strongly considering purchasing a set of these until I saw this photo. Am I missing something? Where are the pistons?
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Old Jan 18, 2009 | 11:11 AM
  #46  
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You're LOOKING AT THEM. They are not massive mounds of cast iron with huge pads. How could you sell a caliper with no pistons in it?? Don't beleve me? Put an air gun into the inlet port and put 120psi to it...but stand back.

Here's a very popular caliper from this company. They sell hundreds of them a year. I think by now if the came without pistons I'd have heard about it.

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Old Jan 18, 2009 | 12:06 PM
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The piston is hollow shaped like a cup. That prevents heat transfer to the fluid. Air is a very good insulator.

The stock design with solid aluminum pistons is a crappy design because it allows transfer of heat into the fluid allowing boiling of the fluid and brake fade. The stock poston seals are a crappy design too.

The cupped stainless steel piston design is much superior.

That's the whole point right? To have a caliper that can stand up to repeated hard braking.
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Old Jan 18, 2009 | 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Droshki
I was strongly considering purchasing a set of these until I saw this photo. Am I missing something? Where are the pistons?
That is SUCH a common question from Vette guys!
They are so used to seeing 10lb cast pistons they don't even notice the little cups!

Yes Virginia, the pistons do exist.

Keith
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Old Jan 18, 2009 | 01:40 PM
  #49  
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I apologize for sounding as if I was jumping down Droshki throat, but come on guys; this company builds thousands of calipers a year. And I've never seen even ONE come without pistons....Trust me; bolt it on and run with it, it'll work fine. (even if you're convinced there are no pistons!)

Here's a nice shot of all three pistons on one side of a six pot.


Last edited by Todd TCE; Jan 18, 2009 at 01:44 PM.
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Old Jan 18, 2009 | 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Todd TCE
I apologize for sounding as if I was jumping down Droshki throat, but come on guys; this company builds thousands of calipers a year. And I've never seen even ONE come without pistons....Trust me; bolt it on and run with it, it'll work fine. (even if you're convinced there are no pistons!)
Well you're dealing with Vette guys now. They are used to seeing 4 piston calipers with massive block pistons. The little cups look like the stainless liner in the stock pistons.

Almost everyone else is used to seeing single piston calipers and have no frame of reference.
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Old Jan 18, 2009 | 01:50 PM
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I can see them now They are just thinner then I was looking for. 427 was right, they looked like just sleeves to me. No worries with Todd, we discussed it PM.

PS I reserve the right to be an idiot whenever it suits me
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Old Jan 19, 2009 | 12:03 AM
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Sorry for the terrible picture todd, that is the only one I could find to use for a illustration. I was wondering was I the only one wondering about the pistons. (feel kinda silly) I am going to start to install them tomorrow, and I will keep everyone informed. Droshki if you are thinking about a set Todd has a great complete deal setup. He will send you everything you need. (except the big ugly caliper in my picture)
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Old Jan 19, 2009 | 12:12 AM
  #53  
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All good man, just put up a nice one of them all installed when you're done.
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Old Jan 19, 2009 | 12:49 AM
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Will do. Maybe by then I will have figured out how to post pictures with photo bucket
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Old Mar 24, 2009 | 10:48 PM
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Just a follow up finally got around to finishing my wilwood install. Went on as easy as a stock caliper. (I purchased all 4 & they came with the nessasary lines & new wilwood pads. I went with the dot 5 fluid (I dont like the dot 3 around paint) Bleeding was a snap with the motive brake bleeder (everyone recommended! WELL WORTH THE MONEY) Test drive: after a few slower hard stops to break the pads in & some regular stops it was time for a real test. I got about 70 & hit the brakes hard, and man it will put you in the windsheild without locking the wheels!!! In my opinion this is a great kit easy to install (direct replacement no mods) better performance than my brakes have ever worked, and look great. Hopefully this is the last time I will have to totally rebuild my brake system (This is the 3rd time) Maybe I have finally gotten rid of the fluid puddles in the floor! I will try to post some pics of the install. Wonder does anyone need 4 gm style calipers
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Old Mar 24, 2009 | 10:56 PM
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Just a word of caution: true DOT5 fluid is silicone based and compressible. Not what is ideal for a street car nor recommended (in fact warned against) by Wilwood. True it's nicer to painted surfaces but once in the car the silicone based fluid will contaminate all aspects of the plumbing system and require extensive work to replace with conventional glycol based fluids.

DOT5.1 on the other hand is a higher boiling point fluid commonly sold as 'race fluid' and will work fine but be overkill and have a shorter life span than DOT3/4 fluids. If you are happy with the DOT5 silicone based fluid that's fine, it will work without being a danger, but please understand it effects both pedal response/feel and cannot be mixed with 'conventional' fluid if needed in a pinch.
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Old Mar 24, 2009 | 11:14 PM
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I had already used the dot 5 silicone fluid in the car years ago, I figured (but I was wrong) it would extend the life of the gm calipers since it sets more than I drive it (one reason why I went back with it) I didnt want to pull all the hard lines & master again & flush the system. The pedal feels pretty good (about the same as always). I may look into the hydro boost later on. Just wondering does wilwood make a direct replacement master cylinder for my 1980? Thanks for all the advice & info Todd. I would recommend you to anyone here!!
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Old Mar 24, 2009 | 11:23 PM
  #58  
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All makes sense to me. If you had it in there before and were happy; keep it that way. Only posted the warning as a caution to others who may not know what they are getting into.

There are a number of manual brake cylinders you can review but I can't say for certain that one or another will be a direct fit. Never done it, sorry.
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Old Mar 25, 2009 | 05:49 PM
  #59  
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Which ones are a direct fit for a 67 Camaro?
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Old Mar 26, 2009 | 08:02 PM
  #60  
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I love my wilwoods. Yes, I used the L word. Don't tell my wife. I lost 11lbs per wheel, 44 lbs. And yes, they do stop, and don't fade. I tried DOT 5 fluid once, when it gets hot, the pedal goes to the floor. It's a bear to get it all out too. Check my signature for the install.
Bee Jay

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