Tranny leak help, need opinions.
12-24-2008, 01:47 PM
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Tranny leak help, need opinions.
I have the turbo 350 from summit that has about 5 years and 50,000 miles on it. I jacked up the rear of the car and noticed tranny oil pour out from the front ( ~1/2 pint).. I changed the filter and gasket and used rtv to ensure a good seal. I also banged out some warped area's of the pan to ensure a flat fit. I added fluid after the change and drove for awhile topping it off for the proper level. Parked it overnight to discover about a quart of fresh tranny fluid on the floor. Front seal by TQ gone bad??
12-24-2008, 01:56 PM
#2
Burning Brakes
I finally resolved my tranny leak problem. I have a TH400. I installed studs on the tranny, used the cork/rubber gasket, only used RTV (copper) at bolt holes, and torqued the nuts to spec. I replaced the speedo housing O-ring and replaced the gasket and o-ring on the vacuum modulator. Good luck.
12-24-2008, 02:01 PM
#4
Le Mans Master
If you used RTV on the pan gasket that would be the first place I'd look. It was designed to go on dry.
The dipstick tube seal is #2 to look at. SOme use an O ring and some use a cup seal. Make sure you have the correct one.
The detent cable seal is another leak point.
Some cars have a TCS switch in the 3rd clutch pressure tap on the right side of the case. Switch goes bad and leaks.
Convertor seal can not leak statically. It can leak with the engine running, but not while setting. If it leaks when running, it'll pump the trans dry in a fairly short time. It can leak, but usually the drainback hole from the pump is plugged and the cavity fills then dumps when you stop. That's only a couple ounces of fluid.
The dipstick tube seal is #2 to look at. SOme use an O ring and some use a cup seal. Make sure you have the correct one.
The detent cable seal is another leak point.
Some cars have a TCS switch in the 3rd clutch pressure tap on the right side of the case. Switch goes bad and leaks.
Convertor seal can not leak statically. It can leak with the engine running, but not while setting. If it leaks when running, it'll pump the trans dry in a fairly short time. It can leak, but usually the drainback hole from the pump is plugged and the cavity fills then dumps when you stop. That's only a couple ounces of fluid.
12-24-2008, 02:09 PM
#5
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Jul 2008
Location: Canastota Ny
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i had a pan leak, i changed out my bent up steel pan for a summitt aluminum one. and it too has slight leaks at some not all of the bolt holes. is this common with the summitt pans? is it the allen bolts and lock washers that cause this? the gasket area is clean not leaks at all.
i didnt use RTV i just snugged the allen head bolts down as they shouldve been. now when i say leak i mean maybe enough to color your finger tip after driving it. but i feel like i have failed still (obsessive cumpulsive)
im thinking i should go back in with the RTV now and do it all over again although i was told that its a
to use that on a trans pan.
i didnt use RTV i just snugged the allen head bolts down as they shouldve been. now when i say leak i mean maybe enough to color your finger tip after driving it. but i feel like i have failed still (obsessive cumpulsive)
im thinking i should go back in with the RTV now and do it all over again although i was told that its a
to use that on a trans pan.
12-24-2008, 02:11 PM
#6
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
If you used RTV on the pan gasket that would be the first place I'd look. It was designed to go on dry.
The dipstick tube seal is #2 to look at. SOme use an O ring and some use a cup seal. Make sure you have the correct one.
The detent cable seal is another leak point.
Some cars have a TCS switch in the 3rd clutch pressure tap on the right side of the case. Switch goes bad and leaks.
Convertor seal can not leak statically. It can leak with the engine running, but not while setting. If it leaks when running, it'll pump the trans dry in a fairly short time. It can leak, but usually the drainback hole from the pump is plugged and the cavity fills then dumps when you stop. That's only a couple ounces of fluid.
The dipstick tube seal is #2 to look at. SOme use an O ring and some use a cup seal. Make sure you have the correct one.
The detent cable seal is another leak point.
Some cars have a TCS switch in the 3rd clutch pressure tap on the right side of the case. Switch goes bad and leaks.
Convertor seal can not leak statically. It can leak with the engine running, but not while setting. If it leaks when running, it'll pump the trans dry in a fairly short time. It can leak, but usually the drainback hole from the pump is plugged and the cavity fills then dumps when you stop. That's only a couple ounces of fluid.
12-24-2008, 11:23 PM
#7
Racer
Member Since: Apr 2006
Location: Warrensburg MO
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I have always been under the impression that you weren't supposed to use RTV on the tranny pan. However; now I see that some of the filter kits for Chrysler say to use RTV instead of a gasket!
12-25-2008, 12:46 AM
#8
Race Director
The Chryslers come from the factory with rtv instead of a gasket.
I used the gasket supplyed when replacing the filter and it leaked almost all the fluid out overnite, did again with only rtv and no leaks, but that's a Chrysler.
I used the gasket supplyed when replacing the filter and it leaked almost all the fluid out overnite, did again with only rtv and no leaks, but that's a Chrysler.
12-25-2008, 11:37 AM
#9
Burning Brakes
The previous owner of my car used rtv/silicone on the tranny and oil pan. When I purchased the car everything leaked. I removed the tranny pan and found pieces (strips) of silicone everywhere. I pulled the oil pan and had to clean out the oil pump filter because there were pieces (strips) of silicone caught up in it. Be careful with that stuff. I would stick to gaskets.
