While I have it apart... I'd like to remove A frames
12-25-2008, 01:02 PM
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While I have it apart... I'd like to remove A frames
I am replacing my inner fender on my dirivers side of my 1969 BB. While the other three corners of the car are solid and original, it looks like the front wheel of the drivers side took a hit. I noticed that the inner fender was no longer bonded by where the headers come out from the car. I could actually lift the air reservoir tank which was mounted to the inner fender. The inner fender was about 1 inch away from where it used to be bonded on the inside. When I tried to push it back into place, I noticed that the air reservoir tank would hit the inner surface of the outside fender. Because of a few poor repairs and the extent of the damage, I used a dremmel tool and cut out the inner well. After cutting it out I noticed that the tank had bent mounts from the impact which made it hit the fender. It look like it was driven into the power brake booster and dented just a bit.
After that I looked at where the front of the inner fender mounted to the back of the outer fender. This was bonded back in the wrong place, actually 2+ inches more to the front of the car. Again, after cutting it out I noticed that the bracket on the back was bent. Rather than taking the bracket out and bending it back and replacing, the goof-ball just bonded it into place. So, I used a small grinder bit and took all of the material from the inner fender out. I am carefully cleaning\grinding the inside of the exterior fender to clean it up and put a new pristine inner fender in.
Back to the Title of the post. I have pulled all of the bolted frame parts out and buffed them back to a rust free finish. They really look great. there is a person here in Austin who will powder coat them for me. So, those A frames are just sitting there dirty and exposed. I would like to take them off while there is nothing around them, wire buff them and have the powder coated as well. this will also completely expose the front frame so I buff those as well. With the inner fender out, I have mucho room. DO I NEED A SPRING COMPRESSOR TO GET THE A-FRAMES OUT? Thanks+++++
[IMG]\\c:\glass2.jpg[/IMG]
After that I looked at where the front of the inner fender mounted to the back of the outer fender. This was bonded back in the wrong place, actually 2+ inches more to the front of the car. Again, after cutting it out I noticed that the bracket on the back was bent. Rather than taking the bracket out and bending it back and replacing, the goof-ball just bonded it into place. So, I used a small grinder bit and took all of the material from the inner fender out. I am carefully cleaning\grinding the inside of the exterior fender to clean it up and put a new pristine inner fender in.
Back to the Title of the post. I have pulled all of the bolted frame parts out and buffed them back to a rust free finish. They really look great. there is a person here in Austin who will powder coat them for me. So, those A frames are just sitting there dirty and exposed. I would like to take them off while there is nothing around them, wire buff them and have the powder coated as well. this will also completely expose the front frame so I buff those as well. With the inner fender out, I have mucho room. DO I NEED A SPRING COMPRESSOR TO GET THE A-FRAMES OUT? Thanks+++++
[IMG]\\c:\glass2.jpg[/IMG]
Last edited by 12151969BB; 12-25-2008 at 01:17 PM.
12-25-2008, 01:24 PM
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Hi 69,
Yes, you need to compress the spring in some way to get it out. You can buy a spring compressor or sometimes rent/borrow one from your auto parts store.
You need to be careful because when the spring is compressed it has a LOT of stored energy. If it flies apart your head or the garage ceiling won't stop it's flight.
It's not a bad job, just be careful.
Merry Christmas!
Regards,
Alan
PS: I believe there is also a way to do it using a jack under the lower a-arm, perhaps someone will post how to do it that way.
Yes, you need to compress the spring in some way to get it out. You can buy a spring compressor or sometimes rent/borrow one from your auto parts store.
You need to be careful because when the spring is compressed it has a LOT of stored energy. If it flies apart your head or the garage ceiling won't stop it's flight.
It's not a bad job, just be careful.
Merry Christmas!
Regards,
Alan
PS: I believe there is also a way to do it using a jack under the lower a-arm, perhaps someone will post how to do it that way.
12-25-2008, 01:52 PM
#3
Team Owner
Hi 69,
Yes, you need to compress the spring in some way to get it out. You can buy a spring compressor or sometimes rent/borrow one from your auto parts store.
You need to be careful because when the spring is compressed it has a LOT of stored energy. If it flies apart your head or the garage ceiling won't stop it's flight.
It's not a bad job, just be careful.
Merry Christmas!
Regards,
Alan
PS: I believe there is also a way to do it using a jack under the lower a-arm, perhaps someone will post how to do it that way.
Yes, you need to compress the spring in some way to get it out. You can buy a spring compressor or sometimes rent/borrow one from your auto parts store.
You need to be careful because when the spring is compressed it has a LOT of stored energy. If it flies apart your head or the garage ceiling won't stop it's flight.
It's not a bad job, just be careful.
Merry Christmas!
Regards,
Alan
PS: I believe there is also a way to do it using a jack under the lower a-arm, perhaps someone will post how to do it that way.
12-25-2008, 03:06 PM
#4
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Location: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
I agree with the above from everyone! However it is possible to do without one!
If you still have the engine in the car a compressor is not necessary but ADVISED!
Jack the car up by the lower a/arm. Remove the bolts from the inner shaft with the car resting on the jack! Then put a jack stand under the cross member of the car next to the welded brace on the lower cross member.
Slowly lower the car from the jack and the jack stand will catch the car! The lower a/arm will then lower with the jack and allow you to remove the spring. A BIG emphasis on SLOWLY Lower!
This is an old school way of doing this and you will need to get the car up pretty high off the ground. Once you have the Lower arm loose you can then separate the ball joint.
When you remove the upper arm, always count and mark the number of shims you have in each position. This will allow you to re-install the arm without an alignment.
I’ve seen this done the exact same way described above only without removing the lower arm bolts from the shaft.
Loosen the lower Ball Joint nut before you jack up the car. A few turns will do it for you. Then separate the ball joint from the spindle support (with the nut still on the joint). Similar to how you would replace a single ball joint. Once you have the joint loose jack the car up by the A/arm, insert a catch jack stand in the same place mentioned above, remove the ball joint nut and again slowly lower the jack letting the jack stand catch the car weight and the arm will come down to allow the spring to come out.
I do not do this job in either of the two above methods, I use a compressor! However, it is possible. The second method will make for some hard work getting the spring back in the car! It’s not easy
Happy Holiday’s
Willcox Inc.
If you still have the engine in the car a compressor is not necessary but ADVISED!
Jack the car up by the lower a/arm. Remove the bolts from the inner shaft with the car resting on the jack! Then put a jack stand under the cross member of the car next to the welded brace on the lower cross member.
Slowly lower the car from the jack and the jack stand will catch the car! The lower a/arm will then lower with the jack and allow you to remove the spring. A BIG emphasis on SLOWLY Lower!
This is an old school way of doing this and you will need to get the car up pretty high off the ground. Once you have the Lower arm loose you can then separate the ball joint.
When you remove the upper arm, always count and mark the number of shims you have in each position. This will allow you to re-install the arm without an alignment.
I’ve seen this done the exact same way described above only without removing the lower arm bolts from the shaft.
Loosen the lower Ball Joint nut before you jack up the car. A few turns will do it for you. Then separate the ball joint from the spindle support (with the nut still on the joint). Similar to how you would replace a single ball joint. Once you have the joint loose jack the car up by the A/arm, insert a catch jack stand in the same place mentioned above, remove the ball joint nut and again slowly lower the jack letting the jack stand catch the car weight and the arm will come down to allow the spring to come out.
I do not do this job in either of the two above methods, I use a compressor! However, it is possible. The second method will make for some hard work getting the spring back in the car! It’s not easy
Happy Holiday’s
Willcox Inc.
12-25-2008, 09:33 PM
#6
Drifting
Hey 12151969BB,
I just removed both my front springs and upper & lower control arms on my 70 coupe last week.
I've been trying to upload the pictures of the project that I took to show you but having a hell of a time getting photobucket to upload the pictures.
Anyway I straped a heavy chain around the spring and the lower A-Arm placed my floor jack under and lifted the A-arm until it started to lift the car off the floor jacks. At this point I separated the upper & lower ball joints and remove the tierod ends but only removed the lower nut off the upper ball joint and let the rest lower down with the a-arm when lowered. Note that I made sure I had plenty of travel for the A-Arm to travel to let all the tension off the springs.
I also took a small video of the job as well.
I havent removed a spring from a vette before and didnt have a problem at all but must admit I took my time and made sure to release and lower the jack REAL slow.
I'll continue to work on trying to upload the pictures and get them to you.
Also the one main source of the front suspension repair I obtained was from Van Steel DVD I had bought last year and just watched it and felt I was able to do the job at no rick and felt safe as well.
If your repairing a BB then the springs have less tension stored in the A-arms then a SB has.
Hope this helps.
I just removed both my front springs and upper & lower control arms on my 70 coupe last week.
I've been trying to upload the pictures of the project that I took to show you but having a hell of a time getting photobucket to upload the pictures.
Anyway I straped a heavy chain around the spring and the lower A-Arm placed my floor jack under and lifted the A-arm until it started to lift the car off the floor jacks. At this point I separated the upper & lower ball joints and remove the tierod ends but only removed the lower nut off the upper ball joint and let the rest lower down with the a-arm when lowered. Note that I made sure I had plenty of travel for the A-Arm to travel to let all the tension off the springs.
I also took a small video of the job as well.
I havent removed a spring from a vette before and didnt have a problem at all but must admit I took my time and made sure to release and lower the jack REAL slow.
I'll continue to work on trying to upload the pictures and get them to you.
Also the one main source of the front suspension repair I obtained was from Van Steel DVD I had bought last year and just watched it and felt I was able to do the job at no rick and felt safe as well.
If your repairing a BB then the springs have less tension stored in the A-arms then a SB has.
Hope this helps.