1970 handling??????????????????????
Race Director
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 16,978
Likes: 7
From: In Dreams There Is Truth Ohio
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 21,953
Likes: 1,445
From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
First you need to make sure all your front end and rear end bushings are in good shape. Then make sure all your steering components are in good shape. All the upgrades will do nothing unless the front end is tight. The biggest and best improvement is tires. A good set of 16 to 18 tires and rims will make it feel like a different car. The rest depends on how much you want to spend. You can start with about 500 dollars or spend well into the thousands for suspension. What re your intentions. Nice driver? Weekend warrior? AutoX champion? Drag race?
I would add the word Moog ball joints.
Racer
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 331
Likes: 1
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 15,892
Likes: 42
when sitting in the drivers seat the big round thing tight in front of you is called the steering wheel. turning this wheel causes the car to move in the direction you turn the wheel.
When approaching a turn or curve in the road, look and see what direction the road turns and than turn the wheel to that direction.
When approaching a turn or curve in the road, look and see what direction the road turns and than turn the wheel to that direction.
I mean I was having fun and all that but the towing bills to pull me out of the ditch were starting to get expensive.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 7,106
Likes: 38
From: Newark DE
Barry, I tried your method and it works pretty well, however I might add that after you've gone around the corner, it helps tremendously to turn the steering wheel back to the original position, and not keep it in the turned position.
I mean I was having fun and all that but the towing bills to pull me out of the ditch were starting to get expensive.
I mean I was having fun and all that but the towing bills to pull me out of the ditch were starting to get expensive.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 19,610
Likes: 778
From: Forked River NJ
gee, sorry Mike. I thought it would understood to basically "follow the road" and turn and straighten the wheel as the road turns and straightens but next time I'll try to make it more clearer for you now that I have a better knowledge of your level of understanding simple instructions (less than the average 3 year old).
Racer
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 449
Likes: 0
From: Boulder CO
When I acquired my '72 just changing lanes on the highway was an adrenalin producing adventure. The primary reason being that the shocks were shot.
I replaced the leaf spring with a 330# composite and mounted QA-1 adjustable shocks all around. The front end components were all tight.
The handling improved exponentially! I live on a twisty mountain road and the car tracks beautifully.
I replaced the leaf spring with a 330# composite and mounted QA-1 adjustable shocks all around. The front end components were all tight.
The handling improved exponentially! I live on a twisty mountain road and the car tracks beautifully.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 17,676
Likes: 201
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
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Race Director
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 11,360
Likes: 382
From: Plano TX
Here's what I have on my '71 which I'm very happy with. It's setup for street and occasional autox, though I don't expect to set any records. Just a fun street car.
Front:
1 1/8" swaybar.
Stock big-block springs.
255/50-17 Bridgestone Potenza tires.
Edelbrock shocks (going to Bilstein)
Speed-direct aluminum upper A-arms
Camber: -0.75. Caster +4.5. Toe-in: 1/8"
Brakes are Wilwood Superlight calipers on stock rototrs from corvettengineering.com (will upgrade to 13": rotor)
Rear:
5/8" sway bar
Late C3 2.5" steel spring (tried composite, didn't like it)
255/50-17 Bridgestone Potenza tires.
Edelbrock shocks (going to Bilstein)
Camber -0.5, Toe-in 1/8"
Brakes are Wilwood dynalight calipers on stock rotors (corvettengineering.com)
I had to change the master cylinder to a manual-brake MC (I have power-brakes) to get enough pressure to lock the wheels. It currently locks the rears first so rather than getting an adjustable prop valve I'll go to 13" front rotors and see if that fixes it.
Front:
1 1/8" swaybar.
Stock big-block springs.
255/50-17 Bridgestone Potenza tires.
Edelbrock shocks (going to Bilstein)
Speed-direct aluminum upper A-arms
Camber: -0.75. Caster +4.5. Toe-in: 1/8"
Brakes are Wilwood Superlight calipers on stock rototrs from corvettengineering.com (will upgrade to 13": rotor)
Rear:
5/8" sway bar
Late C3 2.5" steel spring (tried composite, didn't like it)
255/50-17 Bridgestone Potenza tires.
Edelbrock shocks (going to Bilstein)
Camber -0.5, Toe-in 1/8"
Brakes are Wilwood dynalight calipers on stock rotors (corvettengineering.com)
I had to change the master cylinder to a manual-brake MC (I have power-brakes) to get enough pressure to lock the wheels. It currently locks the rears first so rather than getting an adjustable prop valve I'll go to 13" front rotors and see if that fixes it.
