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Old Jan 4, 2009 | 10:39 AM
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From: 2011,2012 ECS CC 10.50 CHAMP Massapequa NY
Default lightning the chassis?

Has anybody tried to lighten the chassis after a roll cage has been added? Could this be done by drilling a bunch of holes in it with a large hole saw? Lets hear some thoughts on this.
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Old Jan 4, 2009 | 11:34 AM
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It makes an already flimsy frame flimsier

Greenwood did and had problems with it

There are better ways to lighten your car
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Old Jan 4, 2009 | 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by ctk30
It makes an already flimsy frame flimsier

Greenwood did and had problems with it

There are better ways to lighten your car
Thanks, just looking for ideas. I think the frame is pretty strong except where the rear kick ups attach to the main frame. With a cage installed it strengthens that area quite a bit.
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Old Jan 4, 2009 | 11:42 AM
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In the early 60's there were some Pontiac 'Swiss Cheese' 421 cars from several well known racers. I had the fun of seeing them run a few times. They seemed to be a slightly different shape each time they came back to the pits from a 'hard' run!
Regards,
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Old Jan 4, 2009 | 12:59 PM
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from your other thread sounds like with using a solid rear axle its never going to be anything but a drag car. That big front crossmember all those big heavy coil springs iron calibers at all four wheels need to go. Your not going to have any corning loads put into the front end anymore use a lighter crossmember front suspension componenets. I'm sure your going to get rid of all the pop up headlight stuff. the cowl hood is heavy you can get a paper thin one, probably could lighten the bodies fiberglass in places, if its just a drag car not idled in traffic a small light radiator with less water capacity would do the job for a few seconds to a few minutes.

Last edited by Little Mouse; Jan 4, 2009 at 01:05 PM.
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Old Jan 4, 2009 | 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by L79racer
Has anybody tried to lighten the chassis after a roll cage has been added? Could this be done by drilling a bunch of holes in it with a large hole saw? Lets hear some thoughts on this.
Get rid of the front and rear steel defenses, they're about 150lbs both.
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Old Jan 4, 2009 | 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Little Mouse
from your other thread sounds like with using a solid rear axle its never going to be anything but a drag car. That big front crossmember all those big heavy coil springs iron calibers at all four wheels need to go. Your not going to have any corning loads put into the front end anymore use a lighter crossmember front suspension componenets. I'm sure your going to get rid of all the pop up headlight stuff. the cowl hood is heavy you can get a paper thin one, probably could lighten the bodies fiberglass in places, if its just a drag car not idled in traffic a small light radiator with less water capacity would do the job for a few seconds to a few minutes.
I'm going to pick up an 80 tomorrow night. Yes its going to be a race car but it will see some street action. Just need the lights and wipers to work. I will remove anything and everything that will not be needed. Just going to leave the dash alone. Small block aluminum head with a nash 5 speed. I'll be looking to sell some parts if possible.
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Old Jan 4, 2009 | 02:26 PM
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From: 2011,2012 ECS CC 10.50 CHAMP Massapequa NY
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Originally Posted by panic
Get rid of the front and rear steel defenses, they're about 150lbs both.
From the corvette history website it said an 80 weighs 3206 shipped. Could that be possible? If thats correct with 150 just from the steel defences and other stuff I should get done to 2900 to 3000 lbs no problem.
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Old Jan 4, 2009 | 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by L79racer
From the corvette history website it said an 80 weighs 3206 shipped. Could that be possible? If thats correct with 150 just from the steel defences and other stuff I should get done to 2900 to 3000 lbs no problem.
Unfortunately i didn't actually weight them but i indeed remember that i couldn't hold both together by any mean, if they were 80lbs i would.

I'm sure they're far more then 80lbs (in a '77).
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Old Jan 4, 2009 | 05:40 PM
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The vacuum tank for the headlights is part of the front crash structure on newer models. You will have to rig up another tank if you ditch the crash structure or just make sure the engine is running when you open or close the lights. Not a big deal either way. Switching to an aluminum engine like a LS1 will save at least another couple of hundred pounds.



Rick B.
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