Fix it or drop in new one
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Fix it or drop in new one
Hey all
Looking for some advice on what to do with my engine. It's a stock L48 in a 76. It's currently puffing blue smoke out the driver's side sidepipe. So I am looking at some motor work. My question is do I take it somewhere and have the motor done or do I go for the new crate with more hp?
Thanks
Bill
Looking for some advice on what to do with my engine. It's a stock L48 in a 76. It's currently puffing blue smoke out the driver's side sidepipe. So I am looking at some motor work. My question is do I take it somewhere and have the motor done or do I go for the new crate with more hp?
Thanks
Bill
#2
Racer
Hey all
Looking for some advice on what to do with my engine. It's a stock L48 in a 76. It's currently puffing blue smoke out the driver's side sidepipe. So I am looking at some motor work. My question is do I take it somewhere and have the motor done or do I go for the new crate with more hp?
Thanks
Bill
Looking for some advice on what to do with my engine. It's a stock L48 in a 76. It's currently puffing blue smoke out the driver's side sidepipe. So I am looking at some motor work. My question is do I take it somewhere and have the motor done or do I go for the new crate with more hp?
Thanks
Bill
#3
Race Director
I also have a '76 L-48. If it goes to lunch, a crate motor would be the way to go, unless you're concerned about numbers matching blocks. Face it, a numbers matching '76 is not going to impress anyone, so build it to have fun. You can buy it turnkey to the size and HP that you want, or buy a short block, and cover it with goodies. The turnkey motor will have a warranty, which is a plus. With a GOOD machine shop, you will pay almost as much rebuilding it as a new crate motor costs. But, you know what they say about opinions...
#4
Pro
Member Since: Mar 2008
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I also agree - go w/crate motor. Re-use all your brackets & accessories. Install new motor mounts, hoses, belts, etc. Ask yourself if now would be a good time to also go through the tranny and make sure it's up for the higher HP. If an auto tranny car then how 'bout torque converter also? Should you replace it to be better suited to the new rpm range of the higher HP crate engine? Would now be a good time to upgrade ignition system, install some headers, etc, etc. I've been where you're at before on other cars and see it coming in the next year or 2 on the vette so just a few things I've done and thinking about doing again in near future when it's time to replace the original engine. Do your homework very well and research the many options. Make sure to break your new engine in correctly - especially if it's a non-roller camshaft motor which needs additives that modern oils are lacking to break in w/o causing any damage.
If re-using the original block is of interest to you, you could always price out what it would cost to have someone go through it, bore it out .030, install new pistons, bearings and new aluminum heads, cam and intake. This will probably come in several hundred dollars cheaper than a crate motor but is always an option worth considering - especially if you can do a lot of the work yourself.
If re-using the original block is of interest to you, you could always price out what it would cost to have someone go through it, bore it out .030, install new pistons, bearings and new aluminum heads, cam and intake. This will probably come in several hundred dollars cheaper than a crate motor but is always an option worth considering - especially if you can do a lot of the work yourself.
#5
I also have a 76 and the motor took a crap on us. Mine was an L-82 but we decided to get a crate motor. We bought a crate 355 from jegs built by blueprint engines.
http://www.jegs.com/p/Blueprint+Engines/761054/10002/-1
we bought the base motor. you will probably have to call jegs about a 2 piece rear seal motor if you would like to go this way. if you get one of these motors and listen carefully go buy a corvette oil pan and put on it before you try to put the motor in. Me and my dad fought this motor for 6 months before we figured out the oil pan was hitting and would not let the motor sit down. its only about a 1/4 of an inch clearance issue but it will drive you nuts. but all we had to do was put the carb time it and little stuff. we hit the key and within 2 revolutions it fired to life and it sounds healthy!! comes with a dyno sheet of the actual motor in the crate and i highly recommend this company. We havent got to drive the car yet because we still have a lot to finish on the car but it feels like it will be a great running car! hope this helps a little.
http://www.jegs.com/p/Blueprint+Engines/761054/10002/-1
we bought the base motor. you will probably have to call jegs about a 2 piece rear seal motor if you would like to go this way. if you get one of these motors and listen carefully go buy a corvette oil pan and put on it before you try to put the motor in. Me and my dad fought this motor for 6 months before we figured out the oil pan was hitting and would not let the motor sit down. its only about a 1/4 of an inch clearance issue but it will drive you nuts. but all we had to do was put the carb time it and little stuff. we hit the key and within 2 revolutions it fired to life and it sounds healthy!! comes with a dyno sheet of the actual motor in the crate and i highly recommend this company. We havent got to drive the car yet because we still have a lot to finish on the car but it feels like it will be a great running car! hope this helps a little.
#6
Drifting
Crate the best way to go. Can get a 400 hp from yearone for as little as $3000 or any of the others out there way cheaper and easier than a rebuild and you'll get a good warranty to go along with it.
If you're really worried about collectability, just save your old one in case you ever want it.
If you're really worried about collectability, just save your old one in case you ever want it.
#7
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Sep 2001
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rebuild-repair L48 w/ flattops & a cheap cam ... it may not be easier but it'll probably be cheaper than a crate.
If we don't support our local auto machine shop ... they will not survive ... and eventually, instead of whining about how our parts come from asia ... we'll be whining about how all the crates are from bumphuk. I can see the posts now ... customer service rep doesn't understand diff between bok choi & block bore.
btw, huffing oil smoke out one side don't necessarily mean motor's wore out ... a leaking intake gasket will do it and has so lotsa times ... other stuff too ... you can fix that yourself in an afternoon for $20. Have a trusted pro check it before you jump. I thought a '76 came w/ merged exhaust? aka Not true duals?
If we don't support our local auto machine shop ... they will not survive ... and eventually, instead of whining about how our parts come from asia ... we'll be whining about how all the crates are from bumphuk. I can see the posts now ... customer service rep doesn't understand diff between bok choi & block bore.
btw, huffing oil smoke out one side don't necessarily mean motor's wore out ... a leaking intake gasket will do it and has so lotsa times ... other stuff too ... you can fix that yourself in an afternoon for $20. Have a trusted pro check it before you jump. I thought a '76 came w/ merged exhaust? aka Not true duals?
#8
Drifting
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i like everyones advice here. its nice to have a fresh crate motor with double the hp or whatever you desire and all that but like jackson said i would look at a few cheap trial and error parts/work to see if its an easy fix. do a compression test and the oil in the cylinder test to see if its bearings and things like that. it sounds like to me you have you mind set up on a crate motor which is good that you can have the swap done in a day or 2 and then have your old motor sitting on a stand in the corner for you to tinker with yourself when you have time......383 ?
#9
Racer
Thread Starter
#10
Racer
Thread Starter
i like everyones advice here. its nice to have a fresh crate motor with double the hp or whatever you desire and all that but like jackson said i would look at a few cheap trial and error parts/work to see if its an easy fix. do a compression test and the oil in the cylinder test to see if its bearings and things like that. it sounds like to me you have you mind set up on a crate motor which is good that you can have the swap done in a day or 2 and then have your old motor sitting on a stand in the corner for you to tinker with yourself when you have time......383 ?