ramair_bryan

My 81s steering has 1-2'' of travel in the wheel. It's much better now after replacing the rag joint. And adding fluid because of the leak.

I need to get an alinement, but theres still too much play at the steering valve ball as it connects to the steering arm. When I'm under the car . Rotating at the rag.....with the engine on......full of fluid. It steers well. Except I can see the ball connection at the valve makes some wasted movement before hydraulics take over. Just alittle.
But the question is this.......If I get the $20 seal kit for the valve, Does it just stop leaks...... or will it restore the valves intended operation. Havent had one apart yet. And a new one is alot to spend...... if I can do it for $20 all better. Im well versed on hydro operations. And wonder if it has an internal leak reducing it's response. Back in a min with 42 more questions............................... ..........ramair.

oldalaskaman

buy the 49 dollar kit

Lil" Red Corvette

What you are describing sounds like it might be normal. The pressure in the valve has a lot to do with taking out that slack. Can you tell a difference between idle and higher RPM? Is the car hard to steer when idling and parking? I've been having problems with my PS pump lately and I noticed it caused me to have more play in the steering. Not enough flow and pressure in the valve I guess.

ramair_bryan

rpm................I didn't think about revving it up. But driving it is revved enough I guess. Down the road is where it's irritating . Anymore info I can give?

0Willcox Corvette

One thing I noticed is that you said... Because of the leak.. you've added oil... "fluid". Oil in the power steering gear box is what will cause the leak. The gear box is supposed to be filled with grease.

The screet that seeps from the gear box over years on an original car is actually the condensation from the original grease unless someone added oil to it prior. Original GM number 1052084 lube has been replaced by 12377985 and this number should still be available. What you are looking for is a lubricant that meets GM 4673M or equivalent.

From the 1963 shop manual (which is the same) Every thirty thousand miles: Inject steering gear lubricant into the forward cover attaching screw hole until lubricant begins.
to come out of the inboard screw hole. This is pretty much the same for all C2 and C3 cars. I'm not sure why but the 1978 shop manual says this lube should not be used on cars prior to 1976.... I'll have to check out the reason why since almost all the parts in the box are the same.







Willcox

Travis'82ce

Borgeson steering box , best investment i've spent on my 82 . Great steering .

ramair_bryan

0oops........I mean fluid in the tank. But the box acts tight. Just the ball on the valve that the steering arm is pushing, seems too much play to move fluid on time. If I open up the case.......do I find a valve plate I can repair, or do seals do the trick?.......Bet It's replacement time for the whole thing................

billcarson

it is also possible that your ballstud connection to the pitman arm came loose and has worn at the taper where it had been spinning.(happened to me).a new ballstud side rebuilding kit will resolve this bit of play.the power steering control valve has two sides to it.a mechanical and a hydraulic side.

0Willcox Corvette

On the control valve.. you can rebuild it.. and we'll show you how..

ramair_bryan

I am so going to screw that up..............you better send me one out. ever take a sip of that coffee cup?.............ramair..........:thumbs :
..........

LannyL81

The ball stud and saddle in the power steering conrol valve are replaceable....almost certain the units from Wilcox have new parts.

I decided to remove the top cover off of the steering box on my '81 last year. The grease inside looked like sawdust!....time for a rebuild. Now I will tackle many things, but not differentials, transmissions, trailing arms or steering gear boxes....these items I take to people that work on them for a living.

The most difficult problem in removing the steering box is getting the pitman arm stud nut loose.

I never thought the steering gear was loose....but after the rebuild....WOW what a difference....drove like a totally car. Nice precise steering.

Suggest doing the entire steering at one time as an alignment is required after replacing any parts.

jb78L-82

If you want to keep the stock steering system, I would highly recommend a rebuild/blue print of the oem steering box by Gary Ramadei (pm me if you want his contact info). Gary not only rebuilds your steering box but adds a custom olite bushing to the steering shaft and hand adjusts the box to factory specs that will eliminate ALL the play in the steering box. My box is better than the OEM steering was when new from the factory. I was shocked at how good the box is after his rebuild. There is zero play now in the steering. The only drawback is that the stock steering ratio which is rather slow is still present but unless you race your C3, I am not sure that having a quicker steering ratio is much benefit on the street. The rebuild/blue print is more than half the cost of the Borgeson system! I paid $300 for my rebuild/blue print 2 years ago with the box having 65,000 miles on it. I drove to New Haven, CT where Gary is and Gary spent over 2 hours talking with me about what he does, showed me around his shop, and dismantled the box in front of me to explain what needed to be done. He also sent me about 25 pictures on email over the following week, detailing every step of the process. Gary is a true craftsman and a dying breed in this country! Check him out if you intend to keep the stock system. BTW-I still have the OEM power steering cylinder and pressure control valve-not rebuilt yet and not leaking either.