Rearend sitting high with positive camber
03-31-2009, 06:22 PM
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Rearend sitting high with positive camber
I just got done replacing my rear steel spring with fiberglass, all 6 u-joints, shocks, changed out the diff. fluid, and I'm sure I did more but can't think of it right now. 
I put everything back together and now my rearend sits about 2-3" higher with positive camber on the rear tires. I dropped the strut rod brace at the differential that adjusts camber. I did not modify/disconnect them at the adjustment bolts.
Questions:
1. I would expect my rearend to be sitting higher since my steel spring was so worn out, it was nearly bent upwards at the tires. However, I have 8" bolts and the spring is at the end of the bolt, so I have no more adjustment for height. How else can I lower the rear end, or can I go any further?
2. Since my height has changed, am I correct in assuming that my camber is now off because it is sitting higher?
I put everything back together and now my rearend sits about 2-3" higher with positive camber on the rear tires. I dropped the strut rod brace at the differential that adjusts camber. I did not modify/disconnect them at the adjustment bolts.
Questions:
1. I would expect my rearend to be sitting higher since my steel spring was so worn out, it was nearly bent upwards at the tires. However, I have 8" bolts and the spring is at the end of the bolt, so I have no more adjustment for height. How else can I lower the rear end, or can I go any further?
2. Since my height has changed, am I correct in assuming that my camber is now off because it is sitting higher?
03-31-2009, 07:12 PM
#2
Le Mans Master
First, have you moved and bounced your car around enough to make sure and re-settle the suspension?
Yes, static camber changes with ride height. But, just what do you mean when you say that you "dropped the strut rod brace at the differential that adjusts camber"?
Unfortunately, some replacement springs have excessive arc and result in this problem. You'll either need 10" bolts (
) to gain another 2" drop or to send the spring back and start over.
TSW
Yes, static camber changes with ride height. But, just what do you mean when you say that you "dropped the strut rod brace at the differential that adjusts camber"?
Unfortunately, some replacement springs have excessive arc and result in this problem. You'll either need 10" bolts (
) to gain another 2" drop or to send the spring back and start over.TSW
03-31-2009, 07:21 PM
#3
Instructor
Thread Starter
Bounced it all over the place including driving it around. Suspension is settled.
There is a bracket that mounts to the differential connecting the strut rod from the wheel to the differential. I never disconnected the strut rods from the brace. I just unbolted the brace from the differential and dropped the brace and the 2 rods together.
What repercussions would I have going to 10" bolts? Rideability issues?
Note: I have not reinstalled the spare tire and don't plan on doing so, but even with all of my weight (200lbs) on the rear bumper, it still doesn't go as low as I want.
There is a bracket that mounts to the differential connecting the strut rod from the wheel to the differential. I never disconnected the strut rods from the brace. I just unbolted the brace from the differential and dropped the brace and the 2 rods together.
What repercussions would I have going to 10" bolts? Rideability issues?
Note: I have not reinstalled the spare tire and don't plan on doing so, but even with all of my weight (200lbs) on the rear bumper, it still doesn't go as low as I want.
03-31-2009, 07:25 PM
#7
Instructor
Thread Starter
Just remembered... I also replace the rubber bushings with Polyurethane. Since these don't compress as much, I'm assuming this is also adding to my ride height...
03-31-2009, 07:25 PM
#8
Advanced
Point of clarification: Did you take the strut rods loose where they connect at the differential, or at the shock mount?
Because if you took them loose at the differential (which is what it sounds like) then unless you un-bolted the entire strut rod bracket from the differential, you had to remove the adjustment bolts.
The only way I know to lower the car is with longer bolts. Are you certain the bolts you have are 8" long?
Which spring did you install?
Because if you took them loose at the differential (which is what it sounds like) then unless you un-bolted the entire strut rod bracket from the differential, you had to remove the adjustment bolts.
The only way I know to lower the car is with longer bolts. Are you certain the bolts you have are 8" long?
Which spring did you install?
03-31-2009, 07:28 PM
#9
Race Director
Member Since: Dec 2007
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St. Jude Donor '09
I measured the bolts. They are 8". There is a cotter pin hole at the end of the bolt. The nuts are as close to the cotter pins as possible.
Just remembered... I also replace the rubber bushings with Polyurethane. Since these don't compress as much, I'm assuming this is also adding to my ride height...
Just remembered... I also replace the rubber bushings with Polyurethane. Since these don't compress as much, I'm assuming this is also adding to my ride height...
03-31-2009, 07:34 PM
#10
Instructor
Thread Starter
I bought a 330lb composite. There is approximately 1/2" from the end of the bolt to the nut which includes where the cotter pin is located.
I didn't remove/loosen the strut rod bolts on either end. Just disconnected the brace and pushed it down to gain access to the differential.
I didn't remove/loosen the strut rod bolts on either end. Just disconnected the brace and pushed it down to gain access to the differential.
03-31-2009, 07:40 PM
#11
Instructor
Thread Starter
03-31-2009, 07:43 PM
#12
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St. Jude Donor '09
03-31-2009, 07:55 PM
#13
Advanced
Good spring info.It's no big deal to adjust the camber. Just loosen the nut on the cam bolt, and rotate the cam using the bolt head until the camber is close. Make sure the (cam) eccentrics are in the same relative position when you're through and re-tighten the nut.
Oh, and you'll want to get it aligned. But be sure to get the ride height where you want it before hand or you'll get to do it again.
10" Grade 8 bolts should be available locally at any most bolt/screw companies. And the only way to find out if it will cause problems by using them is to install them and see. Otherwise you'll need a different rear spring.
03-31-2009, 09:19 PM
#14
Instructor
Thread Starter
That is a very nice ride height. One I would love to have. I'm trying to figure out how to post pictures to show where I'm at, but new to this forum and uncertain how to do it.
04-01-2009, 12:07 AM
#15
Safety Car
I wish more people would visit the forums and ask questions before heading out and making purchases. Many folks here have figured things out through trial and error, blood and sweat, and lots of $$$.
The TRW spring is bad news due to the fact that it has too much arch. Van steel is selling the Hypercoil spring which is similar in construction to the TRW, but may have less arch.
VBP has thier own springs which are not flared out and dont have ride height issues as well.
10 inch bolts will most likely dig into your sidewall of your tire if you have OEM 15 inch rims on it.
Send the spring back, if you can.
The TRW spring is bad news due to the fact that it has too much arch. Van steel is selling the Hypercoil spring which is similar in construction to the TRW, but may have less arch.
VBP has thier own springs which are not flared out and dont have ride height issues as well.
10 inch bolts will most likely dig into your sidewall of your tire if you have OEM 15 inch rims on it.
Send the spring back, if you can.
04-01-2009, 12:46 AM
#16
Instructor
Thread Starter
I wish more people would visit the forums and ask questions before heading out and making purchases. Many folks here have figured things out through trial and error, blood and sweat, and lots of $$$.
The TRW spring is bad news due to the fact that it has too much arch. Van steel is selling the Hypercoil spring which is similar in construction to the TRW, but may have less arch.
VBP has thier own springs which are not flared out and dont have ride height issues as well.
10 inch bolts will most likely dig into your sidewall of your tire if you have OEM 15 inch rims on it.
Send the spring back, if you can.
The TRW spring is bad news due to the fact that it has too much arch. Van steel is selling the Hypercoil spring which is similar in construction to the TRW, but may have less arch.
VBP has thier own springs which are not flared out and dont have ride height issues as well.
10 inch bolts will most likely dig into your sidewall of your tire if you have OEM 15 inch rims on it.
Send the spring back, if you can.
I'll try to get pics posted to better display my issues. I definitely see what you mean about the digging into the sidewall. They do get close now, but that's also because of the positive camber. I may just have to set the alignment and call it good for now...
04-01-2009, 07:13 PM
#17
Racer
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I have the TRW spring and 10" bolts. Readjust your camber to 1/2 to 1 degree neg and that may lower your car as the whole thing may be binding. When I had 16 inch wheels I had to grind about a 1/2 inch off the end of my spring so it wouldn't rub. Now with 17's no problem
04-01-2009, 09:34 PM
#18
Drifting
I wish more people would visit the forums and ask questions before heading out and making purchases. Many folks here have figured things out through trial and error, blood and sweat, and lots of $$$.
The TRW spring is bad news due to the fact that it has too much arch. Van steel is selling the Hypercoil spring which is similar in construction to the TRW, but may have less arch.
VBP has thier own springs which are not flared out and dont have ride height issues as well.
10 inch bolts will most likely dig into your sidewall of your tire if you have OEM 15 inch rims on it.
Send the spring back, if you can.
The TRW spring is bad news due to the fact that it has too much arch. Van steel is selling the Hypercoil spring which is similar in construction to the TRW, but may have less arch.
VBP has thier own springs which are not flared out and dont have ride height issues as well.
10 inch bolts will most likely dig into your sidewall of your tire if you have OEM 15 inch rims on it.
Send the spring back, if you can.
I had my suspension work done at a Corvette shop. I gave the owner specific instructions that I wanted the car level with moderately soft springs - it's a convertible and I didn't want super stiff suspension. I visited the shop a couple of days later thinking I could see the car apart. Instead, it was outside with the rear end about 5" too high - he had used a TRW spring, which looks like the OP's spring. I told the owner it was unacceptable, so he ordered 10" bolts to lower it. I went home and thought about it and decided that was not the answer, so I called him and told him to replace the spring with a VB&P 330# spring that we had discussed in the first place. The VB&P spring lets the car sit at the correct height with the stock 8" bolts. I was lucky and made the shop eat the cost of all the extra work. And I wouldn't go back there for anything.
