New Custom Built RQ Carb just $315 (W/video)
07-23-2009, 02:32 PM
#21
Yeah it does look like something is dripping from a couple spots under your car. And what is that ticking noise? I think you mentioned it earlier.
Your idle seems too low in P, hard to tell with a camera. Before messing with anything, plug all the vacuum ports that you dont need, like headlights. Just to eliminate any potential vacuum leaks.
I think your main problem is with the timing, you have a dial back gun. Go get yourself the digital one and check it out yourself instead of taking it to someone else. Use the sticky about timing or post a video so the others on here can see it.
Have you messed with your mixture screws? Use Lars' papers to dial in your carb also. Your going to need a vacuum gauge if you dont already have one.
You may have already done this stuff, but it doesnt hurt to double check.
Your almost there
Sean
Your idle seems too low in P, hard to tell with a camera. Before messing with anything, plug all the vacuum ports that you dont need, like headlights. Just to eliminate any potential vacuum leaks.
I think your main problem is with the timing, you have a dial back gun. Go get yourself the digital one and check it out yourself instead of taking it to someone else. Use the sticky about timing or post a video so the others on here can see it.
Have you messed with your mixture screws? Use Lars' papers to dial in your carb also. Your going to need a vacuum gauge if you dont already have one.
You may have already done this stuff, but it doesnt hurt to double check.
Your almost there
Sean
07-23-2009, 03:14 PM
#22
Drifting
I agree you need to set your Fast Idle. You will find the adjust screw under the electric choke. For now, try turning it in about 2 turns. Your fast idle should be at least 1200 rpm when cold (start-up). Others will chime in with more detailed comments. And keep on that timing curve. At the risk of sounding repetitive, please decide what you want your Vette to be. As a driver, a circle-track engine will be problematic. Just my 2 cents...
07-23-2009, 11:52 PM
#23
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Your secondary air flap is opening under high throttle / WOT. This will need to be adjusted.
I have some info on doing this printed out from a previous thread because my old carb was doing the same thing. I'll check on this.
Also, the under car view....do you have a gas leak? Looks like something dripping quite badly from front right area...possibly under fuel pump.
There are actually 2 leaks & both are on my to do list very soon. The one you noticed is a leak in a radiator hose going to the heater box in the fire wall. I've gotta get 2 new hoses that are just a little bit longer. The other is oil from the oil pan from when I had to pull it a while back & I'm going to fix this when I take out my break in oil & put in synthetic. I've already go the stuff for this, just have to get in there & do it. In both cases I have known about them & have been keeping a very close eye on fluid levels & everything is OK.
Your getting there. When you put the car in R, you should have your foot on brake. what would happen if, when it was warm you were to up the idle speed just a little, foot on brake and then put in to R? Sounds like your revs are dropping off just a little too much.
This is what I did the second try in the video & got it to move, just a little, before it died. (one foot on gas, the other on the break) The reason the RPMs drop so dramatically when its put into gear is because the trans is already turning at a speed that has it engaged & wanting the car to go & therefore its pulling the second its put into gear. Ordinarily, an torque converter has an RPM range where it spins at idol & isn't actually doing anything. (I know my motor needs tinkered with, that aside for a moment) My current RPM idol speed is higher than the current torque converters "do nothing speed". Adding a stall converter (right or wrong aside for a moment) will change where the "do nothing speed" is to a higher RPM & match where my motor is idling. That way, I can put in gear & is isn't trying to go anywhere, UNTIL I hit the gas peddle, raise the RPMs even higher & want to go somewhere.
How long is it for the engine to be able to run on its own? Seemed like quite a while of feathering the throttle at the start of the vid to keep her going. Most cars should run by themselves, possibly a bit roughly after about 2 mins of no choke on a cold start.
If you have the electric choke wired up, you need to adjust it as you shouldnt need to feather the throttle at all. it should just start and run.
It was roughly about 5 minutes, give or take. I'm sure that I will need to adjust the electric choke a little & the fast idol speed a little.
Thank you Jeff for saying the name & location of the fast idol screw. The elusive second idol screw mystery is much closer to being solved because of this info, now that I have something searchable!
From cold, you need to floor the throttle before turning key to snap the choke closed. release throttle and turn key...she should start right up.
Thats good to know, I'll try this next time.
I have some info on doing this printed out from a previous thread because my old carb was doing the same thing. I'll check on this.
Also, the under car view....do you have a gas leak? Looks like something dripping quite badly from front right area...possibly under fuel pump.
There are actually 2 leaks & both are on my to do list very soon. The one you noticed is a leak in a radiator hose going to the heater box in the fire wall. I've gotta get 2 new hoses that are just a little bit longer. The other is oil from the oil pan from when I had to pull it a while back & I'm going to fix this when I take out my break in oil & put in synthetic. I've already go the stuff for this, just have to get in there & do it. In both cases I have known about them & have been keeping a very close eye on fluid levels & everything is OK.
Your getting there. When you put the car in R, you should have your foot on brake. what would happen if, when it was warm you were to up the idle speed just a little, foot on brake and then put in to R? Sounds like your revs are dropping off just a little too much.
This is what I did the second try in the video & got it to move, just a little, before it died. (one foot on gas, the other on the break) The reason the RPMs drop so dramatically when its put into gear is because the trans is already turning at a speed that has it engaged & wanting the car to go & therefore its pulling the second its put into gear. Ordinarily, an torque converter has an RPM range where it spins at idol & isn't actually doing anything. (I know my motor needs tinkered with, that aside for a moment) My current RPM idol speed is higher than the current torque converters "do nothing speed". Adding a stall converter (right or wrong aside for a moment) will change where the "do nothing speed" is to a higher RPM & match where my motor is idling. That way, I can put in gear & is isn't trying to go anywhere, UNTIL I hit the gas peddle, raise the RPMs even higher & want to go somewhere.
How long is it for the engine to be able to run on its own? Seemed like quite a while of feathering the throttle at the start of the vid to keep her going. Most cars should run by themselves, possibly a bit roughly after about 2 mins of no choke on a cold start.
If you have the electric choke wired up, you need to adjust it as you shouldnt need to feather the throttle at all. it should just start and run.
It was roughly about 5 minutes, give or take. I'm sure that I will need to adjust the electric choke a little & the fast idol speed a little.
Thank you Jeff for saying the name & location of the fast idol screw. The elusive second idol screw mystery is much closer to being solved because of this info, now that I have something searchable!
From cold, you need to floor the throttle before turning key to snap the choke closed. release throttle and turn key...she should start right up.
Thats good to know, I'll try this next time.
07-24-2009, 12:08 AM
#24
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St. Jude Donor '09
If you raise you idle speed higher (much higher) you should be able to put the car in gear and drive it. If it still dies it is more tuning you need not a stall converter. Yes you need a converter for the engine you have described but you should be able to drive it by adjusting the idle higher the way it is now.
If it still dies it is more tuning you need not a stall converter. Yes you need a converter for the engine you have described but you should be able to drive it by adjusting the idle higher the way it is now.
Last edited by 400hp427vette; 07-24-2009 at 12:10 AM.
07-24-2009, 12:57 AM
#25
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... what is that ticking noise? I think you mentioned it earlier.
There are actually 2 things making sound now. 1 is a bad seal on the headers & they are getting replaced one of these days when I don't get outbid. The other, my buddy says is a "clacking rocker". This is a somewhat recent new development that is getting more pronounced. This is one of those things where I have read about it & know that I need to turn it so much one way & then so much back the other but with out ever doing it once I know I'd risk doing it wrong & therefore I'm just gonna watch him do it once next time hes over & then I'll always know how. I'll be running the motor a bear minimum between now & then, if at all.
Your idle seems too low in P, hard to tell with a camera. Before messing with anything, plug all the vacuum ports that you don't need, like headlights. Just to eliminate any potential vacuum leaks.
Funny that you say that because this is one of those things where one thread says plug it all off & another says hook it all up LOL. But for clarity, I just recently plugged everything in & have been in the process of replacing all my vacuum hoses to find a leak. So far, about 1/2 the hoses in the car have been replaced with new & I need to get some hose with a smaller outer diameter to be able to replace the rest. I'm searching but this hose is turning out to be a specialty item N/A at Auto Zone. (Specifically, the 2 sizes of hose at the front of the car to do with the headlights)
I think your main problem is with the timing, you have a dial back gun. Go get yourself the digital one and check it out yourself instead of taking it to someone else. Use the sticky about timing or post a video so the others on here can see it.
I'll look for & check out the sticky. I know I read it at some point but that was awhile back. A refresher will do me good. I did a video on setting static timing when I did that much with it.
Have you messed with your mixture screws? Use Lars' papers to dial in your carb also. Your going to need a vacuum gauge if you don't already have one.
Other than the idol screw & plugging a few holes, I haven't messed with the new carb. All of its setting are still right out of the box. I'll look for that, print it out & have it handy when I go to tinkering with it. I'm going to hope that I can find some experience laying around that needs beer when I do go to mess with it because again thats something I haven't done & don't want to mess it up. It "should" be set up pretty close tho because it was built specifically for my car.
I do not have a vacuum gauge. Thats a tool thats been mentioned a few times but nothing specific mentioned about it. I wouldn't know what one was if you put it in front of me so if you have any suggestions I'm all ears.
You may have already done this stuff, but it doesn't hurt to double check.
Nope, not yet. This is the cool stuff I come here for. I'll get 20 new leads & do my best to exhaust every one. Because I have so many problems in so many places its real easy to get too spread out with too many projects at once but I just try to do them in order of importance / money.
Your almost there!
Sean
Thanks for encouragement & the info.
There are actually 2 things making sound now. 1 is a bad seal on the headers & they are getting replaced one of these days when I don't get outbid. The other, my buddy says is a "clacking rocker". This is a somewhat recent new development that is getting more pronounced. This is one of those things where I have read about it & know that I need to turn it so much one way & then so much back the other but with out ever doing it once I know I'd risk doing it wrong & therefore I'm just gonna watch him do it once next time hes over & then I'll always know how. I'll be running the motor a bear minimum between now & then, if at all.
Your idle seems too low in P, hard to tell with a camera. Before messing with anything, plug all the vacuum ports that you don't need, like headlights. Just to eliminate any potential vacuum leaks.
Funny that you say that because this is one of those things where one thread says plug it all off & another says hook it all up LOL. But for clarity, I just recently plugged everything in & have been in the process of replacing all my vacuum hoses to find a leak. So far, about 1/2 the hoses in the car have been replaced with new & I need to get some hose with a smaller outer diameter to be able to replace the rest. I'm searching but this hose is turning out to be a specialty item N/A at Auto Zone. (Specifically, the 2 sizes of hose at the front of the car to do with the headlights)
I think your main problem is with the timing, you have a dial back gun. Go get yourself the digital one and check it out yourself instead of taking it to someone else. Use the sticky about timing or post a video so the others on here can see it.
I'll look for & check out the sticky. I know I read it at some point but that was awhile back. A refresher will do me good. I did a video on setting static timing when I did that much with it.
Have you messed with your mixture screws? Use Lars' papers to dial in your carb also. Your going to need a vacuum gauge if you don't already have one.
Other than the idol screw & plugging a few holes, I haven't messed with the new carb. All of its setting are still right out of the box. I'll look for that, print it out & have it handy when I go to tinkering with it. I'm going to hope that I can find some experience laying around that needs beer when I do go to mess with it because again thats something I haven't done & don't want to mess it up. It "should" be set up pretty close tho because it was built specifically for my car.
I do not have a vacuum gauge. Thats a tool thats been mentioned a few times but nothing specific mentioned about it. I wouldn't know what one was if you put it in front of me so if you have any suggestions I'm all ears.
You may have already done this stuff, but it doesn't hurt to double check.
Nope, not yet. This is the cool stuff I come here for. I'll get 20 new leads & do my best to exhaust every one. Because I have so many problems in so many places its real easy to get too spread out with too many projects at once but I just try to do them in order of importance / money.
Your almost there!
Sean
Thanks for encouragement & the info.
07-24-2009, 01:14 AM
#26
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If you raise you idle speed higher (much higher) you should be able to put the car in gear and drive it. If it still dies it is more tuning you need not a stall converter. Yes you need a converter for the engine you have described but you should be able to drive it by adjusting the idle higher the way it is now.
If it still dies it is more tuning you need not a stall converter. Yes you need a converter for the engine you have described but you should be able to drive it by adjusting the idle higher the way it is now."What the h*** to do I know, I'm just some guy that bought a video camera at a yard sale & thought I was gonna use it for ****!"
07-24-2009, 01:28 AM
#27
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Your secondary air flap is opening under high throttle / WOT. This will need to be adjusted.
I have some info on doing this printed out from a previous thread because my old carb was doing the same thing. I'll check on this.
This was covered it an old post, so you know how to fix this, but it is not the main problem right now.
Also, the under car view....do you have a gas leak? Looks like something dripping quite badly from front right area...possibly under fuel pump.
There are actually 2 leaks & both are on my to do list very soon. The one you noticed is a leak in a radiator hose going to the heater box in the fire wall. I've gotta get 2 new hoses that are just a little bit longer. The other is oil from the oil pan from when I had to pull it a while back & I'm going to fix this when I take out my break in oil & put in synthetic. I've already go the stuff for this, just have to get in there & do it. In both cases I have known about them & have been keeping a very close eye on fluid levels & everything is OK.
Your getting there. When you put the car in R, you should have your foot on brake. what would happen if, when it was warm you were to up the idle speed just a little, foot on brake and then put in to R? Sounds like your revs are dropping off just a little too much.
This is what I did the second try in the video & got it to move, just a little, before it died. (one foot on gas, the other on the break) The reason the RPMs drop so dramatically when its put into gear is because the trans is already turning at a speed that has it engaged & wanting the car to go & therefore its pulling the second its put into gear. Ordinarily, an torque converter has an RPM range where it spins at idol & isn't actually doing anything. (I know my motor needs tinkered with, that aside for a moment) My current RPM idol speed is higher than the current torque converters "do nothing speed". Adding a stall converter (right or wrong aside for a moment) will change where the "do nothing speed" is to a higher RPM & match where my motor is idling. That way, I can put in gear & is isn't trying to go anywhere, UNTIL I hit the gas peddle, raise the RPMs even higher & want to go somewhere.
How long is it for the engine to be able to run on its own? Seemed like quite a while of feathering the throttle at the start of the vid to keep her going. Most cars should run by themselves, possibly a bit roughly after about 2 mins of no choke on a cold start.
If you have the electric choke wired up, you need to adjust it as you shouldnt need to feather the throttle at all. it should just start and run.
Choke should be adjusted to stay close longer.
It was roughly about 5 minutes, give or take. I'm sure that I will need to adjust the electric choke a little & the fast idol speed a little.
Thank you Jeff for saying the name & location of the fast idol screw. The elusive second idol screw mystery is much closer to being solved because of this info, now that I have something searchable!
From cold, you need to floor the throttle before turning key to snap the choke closed. release throttle and turn key...she should start right up.
Again, adjust the choke to stay closed longer and set the fast idle at about 1200.
Thats good to know, I'll try this next time.
I have some info on doing this printed out from a previous thread because my old carb was doing the same thing. I'll check on this.
This was covered it an old post, so you know how to fix this, but it is not the main problem right now.
Also, the under car view....do you have a gas leak? Looks like something dripping quite badly from front right area...possibly under fuel pump.
There are actually 2 leaks & both are on my to do list very soon. The one you noticed is a leak in a radiator hose going to the heater box in the fire wall. I've gotta get 2 new hoses that are just a little bit longer. The other is oil from the oil pan from when I had to pull it a while back & I'm going to fix this when I take out my break in oil & put in synthetic. I've already go the stuff for this, just have to get in there & do it. In both cases I have known about them & have been keeping a very close eye on fluid levels & everything is OK.
Your getting there. When you put the car in R, you should have your foot on brake. what would happen if, when it was warm you were to up the idle speed just a little, foot on brake and then put in to R? Sounds like your revs are dropping off just a little too much.
This is what I did the second try in the video & got it to move, just a little, before it died. (one foot on gas, the other on the break) The reason the RPMs drop so dramatically when its put into gear is because the trans is already turning at a speed that has it engaged & wanting the car to go & therefore its pulling the second its put into gear. Ordinarily, an torque converter has an RPM range where it spins at idol & isn't actually doing anything. (I know my motor needs tinkered with, that aside for a moment) My current RPM idol speed is higher than the current torque converters "do nothing speed". Adding a stall converter (right or wrong aside for a moment) will change where the "do nothing speed" is to a higher RPM & match where my motor is idling. That way, I can put in gear & is isn't trying to go anywhere, UNTIL I hit the gas peddle, raise the RPMs even higher & want to go somewhere.
How long is it for the engine to be able to run on its own? Seemed like quite a while of feathering the throttle at the start of the vid to keep her going. Most cars should run by themselves, possibly a bit roughly after about 2 mins of no choke on a cold start.
If you have the electric choke wired up, you need to adjust it as you shouldnt need to feather the throttle at all. it should just start and run.
Choke should be adjusted to stay close longer.
It was roughly about 5 minutes, give or take. I'm sure that I will need to adjust the electric choke a little & the fast idol speed a little.
Thank you Jeff for saying the name & location of the fast idol screw. The elusive second idol screw mystery is much closer to being solved because of this info, now that I have something searchable!
From cold, you need to floor the throttle before turning key to snap the choke closed. release throttle and turn key...she should start right up.
Again, adjust the choke to stay closed longer and set the fast idle at about 1200.
Thats good to know, I'll try this next time.
Last edited by Peterbuilt; 07-24-2009 at 01:30 AM.
07-24-2009, 01:46 AM
#28
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Aug 2006
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Some more help or more confusion!
... what is that ticking noise? I think you mentioned it earlier.
There are actually 2 things making sound now. 1 is a bad seal on the headers & they are getting replaced one of these days when I don't get outbid. The other, my buddy says is a "clacking rocker". This is a somewhat recent new development that is getting more pronounced. This is one of those things where I have read about it & know that I need to turn it so much one way & then so much back the other but with out ever doing it once I know I'd risk doing it wrong & therefore I'm just gonna watch him do it once next time hes over & then I'll always know how. I'll be running the motor a bear minimum between now & then, if at all.
Your idle seems too low in P, hard to tell with a camera. Before messing with anything, plug all the vacuum ports that you don't need, like headlights. Just to eliminate any potential vacuum leaks.
Funny that you say that because this is one of those things where one thread says plug it all off & another says hook it all up LOL. But for clarity, I just recently plugged everything in & have been in the process of replacing all my vacuum hoses to find a leak. So far, about 1/2 the hoses in the car have been replaced with new & I need to get some hose with a smaller outer diameter to be able to replace the rest. I'm searching but this hose is turning out to be a specialty item N/A at Auto Zone. (Specifically, the 2 sizes of hose at the front of the car to do with the headlights)
On the manifold behind the carb are two vacuum ports, leave the one to the transmission connected and cap the other one. In the video it looks like you tried to raise the headlights and they stayed down, you have leaks in that system, maybe relay leaks or actuator leaks or whatever so cap the port on the manifold and eliminate that system for now.
The sizes of the hoses are 5/32 7/32 and 9/32 ID.
I think your main problem is with the timing, you have a dial back gun. Go get yourself the digital one and check it out yourself instead of taking it to someone else. Use the sticky about timing or post a video so the others on here can see it.
I'll look for & check out the sticky. I know I read it at some point but that was awhile back. A refresher will do me good. I did a video on setting static timing when I did that much with it.
You have to get a dial back timing light.
Have you messed with your mixture screws? Use Lars' papers to dial in your carb also. Your going to need a vacuum gauge if you don't already have one.
You have to have a vacuum gauge, once you get the timing correct you have to adjust the idle screws to get the highest vacuum.
Other than the idol screw & plugging a few holes, I haven't messed with the new carb. All of its setting are still right out of the box. I'll look for that, print it out & have it handy when I go to tinkering with it. I'm going to hope that I can find some experience laying around that needs beer when I do go to mess with it because again thats something I haven't done & don't want to mess it up. It "should" be set up pretty close tho because it was built specifically for my car.
Your "New" carb idle screws are probably set at 3 turns out, you need the vacuum gauge to fine tune that.
I do not have a vacuum gauge. Thats a tool thats been mentioned a few times but nothing specific mentioned about it. I wouldn't know what one was if you put it in front of me so if you have any suggestions I'm all ears.
You may have already done this stuff, but it doesn't hurt to double check.
Nope, not yet. This is the cool stuff I come here for. I'll get 20 new leads & do my best to exhaust every one. Because I have so many problems in so many places its real easy to get too spread out with too many projects at once but I just try to do them in order of importance / money.
Your almost there!
Sean
Thanks for encouragement & the info.
There are actually 2 things making sound now. 1 is a bad seal on the headers & they are getting replaced one of these days when I don't get outbid. The other, my buddy says is a "clacking rocker". This is a somewhat recent new development that is getting more pronounced. This is one of those things where I have read about it & know that I need to turn it so much one way & then so much back the other but with out ever doing it once I know I'd risk doing it wrong & therefore I'm just gonna watch him do it once next time hes over & then I'll always know how. I'll be running the motor a bear minimum between now & then, if at all.
Your idle seems too low in P, hard to tell with a camera. Before messing with anything, plug all the vacuum ports that you don't need, like headlights. Just to eliminate any potential vacuum leaks.
Funny that you say that because this is one of those things where one thread says plug it all off & another says hook it all up LOL. But for clarity, I just recently plugged everything in & have been in the process of replacing all my vacuum hoses to find a leak. So far, about 1/2 the hoses in the car have been replaced with new & I need to get some hose with a smaller outer diameter to be able to replace the rest. I'm searching but this hose is turning out to be a specialty item N/A at Auto Zone. (Specifically, the 2 sizes of hose at the front of the car to do with the headlights)
On the manifold behind the carb are two vacuum ports, leave the one to the transmission connected and cap the other one. In the video it looks like you tried to raise the headlights and they stayed down, you have leaks in that system, maybe relay leaks or actuator leaks or whatever so cap the port on the manifold and eliminate that system for now.
The sizes of the hoses are 5/32 7/32 and 9/32 ID.
I think your main problem is with the timing, you have a dial back gun. Go get yourself the digital one and check it out yourself instead of taking it to someone else. Use the sticky about timing or post a video so the others on here can see it.
I'll look for & check out the sticky. I know I read it at some point but that was awhile back. A refresher will do me good. I did a video on setting static timing when I did that much with it.
You have to get a dial back timing light.
Have you messed with your mixture screws? Use Lars' papers to dial in your carb also. Your going to need a vacuum gauge if you don't already have one.
You have to have a vacuum gauge, once you get the timing correct you have to adjust the idle screws to get the highest vacuum.
Other than the idol screw & plugging a few holes, I haven't messed with the new carb. All of its setting are still right out of the box. I'll look for that, print it out & have it handy when I go to tinkering with it. I'm going to hope that I can find some experience laying around that needs beer when I do go to mess with it because again thats something I haven't done & don't want to mess it up. It "should" be set up pretty close tho because it was built specifically for my car.
Your "New" carb idle screws are probably set at 3 turns out, you need the vacuum gauge to fine tune that.
I do not have a vacuum gauge. Thats a tool thats been mentioned a few times but nothing specific mentioned about it. I wouldn't know what one was if you put it in front of me so if you have any suggestions I'm all ears.
You may have already done this stuff, but it doesn't hurt to double check.
Nope, not yet. This is the cool stuff I come here for. I'll get 20 new leads & do my best to exhaust every one. Because I have so many problems in so many places its real easy to get too spread out with too many projects at once but I just try to do them in order of importance / money.
Your almost there!
Sean
Thanks for encouragement & the info.
07-24-2009, 05:58 PM
#29
A vacuum gauge will be a round dial connected to a short rubber hose (or something similiar). It usually works both ways: vacuum and pressure. YOu can pick one up pretty cheap at sears along with the timing light.
Check out that rocker. It could be causing some issues and you sure dont want it causing more problems. I had a rocker pop off along with a bent push rod. Just make a small ticking noise-looked under the cover and the push rod had worn a new groove in the guide hole.
Look at Lars papers for the mixture screws. It may also be in the timing sticky. Your builder might of just taken them 3 or so turns out but you have to find the right setting (with the vacuum gauge). I think Lars suggests staying away from aftermarket screws. Turn one in all the way and count the revolutions to see where its set and write it down. Then take it all the way out and see if its stock or aftermarket. The instructions for tuning them will be in one of those papers.
I think that its ok for your secondary flaps to open just a tiny bit when its revved high in P. they should only open under load, but they were just kind of fluttering if I remember the video right.
Dont worry about the headlights and stuff right now...get this sucker moving.
I think your getting close to a test drive
Check out that rocker. It could be causing some issues and you sure dont want it causing more problems. I had a rocker pop off along with a bent push rod. Just make a small ticking noise-looked under the cover and the push rod had worn a new groove in the guide hole.
Look at Lars papers for the mixture screws. It may also be in the timing sticky. Your builder might of just taken them 3 or so turns out but you have to find the right setting (with the vacuum gauge). I think Lars suggests staying away from aftermarket screws. Turn one in all the way and count the revolutions to see where its set and write it down. Then take it all the way out and see if its stock or aftermarket. The instructions for tuning them will be in one of those papers.
I think that its ok for your secondary flaps to open just a tiny bit when its revved high in P. they should only open under load, but they were just kind of fluttering if I remember the video right.
Dont worry about the headlights and stuff right now...get this sucker moving.
I think your getting close to a test drive
07-24-2009, 07:09 PM
#30
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If you can't turn up your idle and put it in gear and the car still running you got to have issues going on with that convertor or tranny or your dissy is not installed correctly and not in time.
The comp cams 270H is NOT that big of a cam and can be used with stock convertors...
I would bring 1 piston up to TDC on compression stroke and the pull the dissy cap and make sure the rotor is pointing to # 1 cylinder, have a buddy more knowledgeable come and help and verify ( I'm thinking your one gear tooth off) as it's easy to have it pointing at #3 and thinking it's # 1 ( I have done this and it's sounds just like what you are dealing with. If that's not it my next step would be pulling the tranny and replacing the convertor, but while the tranny's out you might as well go through it just to make sure it's good.
Just my 2 cents...
The comp cams 270H is NOT that big of a cam and can be used with stock convertors...
I would bring 1 piston up to TDC on compression stroke and the pull the dissy cap and make sure the rotor is pointing to # 1 cylinder, have a buddy more knowledgeable come and help and verify ( I'm thinking your one gear tooth off) as it's easy to have it pointing at #3 and thinking it's # 1 ( I have done this and it's sounds just like what you are dealing with. If that's not it my next step would be pulling the tranny and replacing the convertor, but while the tranny's out you might as well go through it just to make sure it's good.
Just my 2 cents...
07-24-2009, 07:21 PM
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Another thing, when you try to start it does it sometimes back fire through the carb? Listening to the videos your timing does not sound right..... I had my dissy/timing off that the car would start, idle but when I went to put it in gear would die, nothig I did fixed this until I made dam sure the dissy/timing was right. As I said in my previous post I was off a tooth or so so when I thought the rotor was pointing to # 1 it was really pointing more towards # 3...
If I lived anywhere close I'd swing by and help you out on this but I'm too far away...LOL...
Good luck..
If I lived anywhere close I'd swing by and help you out on this but I'm too far away...LOL...
Good luck..
07-26-2009, 06:20 PM
#32
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St. Jude Donor '09
Another thing, when you try to start it does it sometimes back fire through the carb? Listening to the videos your timing does not sound right..... I had my dissy/timing off that the car would start, idle but when I went to put it in gear would die, nothig I did fixed this until I made dam sure the dissy/timing was right. As I said in my previous post I was off a tooth or so so when I thought the rotor was pointing to # 1 it was really pointing more towards # 3...
If I lived anywhere close I'd swing by and help you out on this but I'm too far away...LOL...
Good luck..
If I lived anywhere close I'd swing by and help you out on this but I'm too far away...LOL...
Good luck..
, I would also pull the timing cover to see if the cam was installed correctly. Just a thought....
01-05-2010, 09:35 AM
#34
Race Director
You have numerous problems and you are trying to fix issues with a new carb that are not carb issues. Not saying you did not need a carb but adjusting the brand new carb before addressing the other issues is going to cause you nothing but grief. First you need a good exhaust with no leaks. Then you need ALL vacuum leaks fixed. Then you need the valves adjusted correctly. Then you need to go through the timing sticky at the top of the page. You have major timing issues that you have never addressed. Last I knew your buddy set the timing by ear. If you have a circle track motor (High compression) with a 270 cam incorrect timing can and will cause detonation issues trashing the motor.
1. Fix your exhaust.
2. Set the valves correctly
3. Fix all your vacuum leaks
4 Check the condition of the spark plugs, plug wires, cap, rotor. A compression check would be a good idea when you take out the plugs.
5. Read the timing sticky at the top of the C3 Tech and performance section
6. Follow it to a tee.
7. Set up your initial, mechanical and vacuum advance correctly
Once you know your timing is correct then and only then you can adjust the carb. The only things you should need to set on the carb if it was correctly custom built to your motor is the idle mix, idle speed and choke.
1. Fix your exhaust.
2. Set the valves correctly
3. Fix all your vacuum leaks
4 Check the condition of the spark plugs, plug wires, cap, rotor. A compression check would be a good idea when you take out the plugs.
5. Read the timing sticky at the top of the C3 Tech and performance section
6. Follow it to a tee.
7. Set up your initial, mechanical and vacuum advance correctly
Once you know your timing is correct then and only then you can adjust the carb. The only things you should need to set on the carb if it was correctly custom built to your motor is the idle mix, idle speed and choke.
01-05-2010, 02:22 PM
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63Mako is right on the mark here. Ive got several issues that need dealt with in a certain order.
The economic down turn is at fault here for keeping me fluctuating on having and not having that last 100 bucks to order my hooker super comp headers and side pipes for what seems like forever. Had the extra cash in hand at least 10 times and then something equally boring and necessary has come up that I've needed to dip into it. Had it again 2 days ago, got on Summit to check my wish list and not even 30 min later I get an email putting me just $5 under the mark again AHHHRRRRR!
I haven't been making any new videos for a while now because both of my antique VHS cameras I started out with are finally dead. I'm in the process of completely revamping my set up. I've got a new PC with Win 7 and have a cool samsung R10 HD camcorder
picked out to order after the pipes are out of the way. Soon as the bits & pieces come together it'll all be bigger, better and badder than ever.
My viewers are what keeps me from staying stuck on stuff so some new equipment is just as necessary (to me) as car parts. Just to assure you guys that I do in fact have my priority's straight, you'll be happy to know there is a brand new fire extinguisher in the garage.
So, to simplify my answer. "Christine" & I are still around. We're just on pause for a little while before getting back up & running at full speed.
The economic down turn is at fault here for keeping me fluctuating on having and not having that last 100 bucks to order my hooker super comp headers and side pipes for what seems like forever. Had the extra cash in hand at least 10 times and then something equally boring and necessary has come up that I've needed to dip into it. Had it again 2 days ago, got on Summit to check my wish list and not even 30 min later I get an email putting me just $5 under the mark again AHHHRRRRR!
I haven't been making any new videos for a while now because both of my antique VHS cameras I started out with are finally dead. I'm in the process of completely revamping my set up. I've got a new PC with Win 7 and have a cool samsung R10 HD camcorder
picked out to order after the pipes are out of the way. Soon as the bits & pieces come together it'll all be bigger, better and badder than ever. My viewers are what keeps me from staying stuck on stuff so some new equipment is just as necessary (to me) as car parts. Just to assure you guys that I do in fact have my priority's straight, you'll be happy to know there is a brand new fire extinguisher in the garage.
So, to simplify my answer. "Christine" & I are still around. We're just on pause for a little while before getting back up & running at full speed.
