billla

I wanted to thank you publicly for working with me to find an approach we could both live with so that this information could continue to be available to the community.

Folks, there are a lot of different opinions on this stuff, a lot of good information out there - and a lot of bad. Ultimately my post is just one guy's take based on research I and others have done. Read it, ignore it, discuss it, refute it, challenge it - but bring facts, and stick to 'em. Differing opinions and "spirited" debate is welcome - open combat and personal attacks will be short-lived. If you want the thread to stay, think carefully about how you post.

pauldana

yea!!!!

68post

The addition of "Moly" as an extreme pressure additive can be very important also. It doesn't receive as mush press as Zinc (which usually paired with Phosphorus ), but Moly withstands up to 500,000 psi.

Torco Racing Oil's "MPZ" has the three best ingredients abbreviated and as part of it's name.

Moly is always in the cam lube you receive with your cam from the manufacturer.

This is a good read and explains more :

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/moly-basics/

63mako

Moly and Boron are both good EP additives and are being used more in modern oils. That said their use has increased to try and replace some of the protection lost when the EPA mandated reduction of ZDDP. Most modern oils still have very close to the maximum allowable ZDDP even though other options are available.

MrJlr

I started a thread about "roller vs flat tappet"....got me thinking about my L48 which I want/need to keep running for another year or so....(slowly building a 383 stroker...)

I've had it 12 years and NEVER used a ZDDP oil in it
Now, I've had ZERO problems (Knock on wood!)...

But after all I read and learned - I'M CHANGING MY OIL TODAY!

I'll use what I can get from the local auto-parts store as long as it's one of the ZDDP oils listed on post #1

I have a 200+ mile cruise Saturday down to San Diego and back and I'm not doing it without a little more piece of mind!

billla

Added link to great Vette Magazine article posted by jb78L-82.

Adjusted the commentary for Mobile 1 15W50.

Changed Joe Gibbs Oil to the new brand "Driven Racing Oil".

63mako

Looks like Mobil 1 has expanded their line of oils with 1000 ppm zinc and 1100 PPM phosphorus to include all their entire "High Mileage" line as well as the new Group IV true synthetic "European Formula" 0W-40. The 0W-40 also has the energy saving "Starburst" which used to always mean < 800 PPM phosphorus levels. The 0W-40 looks like a great option for those concerned about higher costs and availability of a True Group IV basestock oil at about $22 -$25 for a 5 quart container redily available at Wal-Mart, Auto Zone ect. I am definitely going to switch my newer daily drivers that require 5W-30 to this and it should be a very good option for factory or mild aftermarket flat tappet engines.
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...duct_Guide.pdf

jb78L-82

I starting Switching most of my cars to Mobil 1 0W-40 European Formula about 6 months ago from 5W-30 Mobil 1. My 2010 Z06 has had Mobil 1 0W-40 now for about 1.5 years once I found out that European Delivered Z06's came factory filled with Mobil 1 0W-40. I'm sticking with Mobil 1 15W-50 for the 78 L-82, for now.

jb78L-82

Just an FYI, The Vette Magazine article is in the March 2014 publication, the current edition, not 2013. The link on the first page of the sticky says, 2013. Thanks

billla

Whups - fixed!

illenema

Here is an excellent line of products that have been around for a long time,
this is what goes in my supercharged 454 and 350. I am sticking with this product line, look at the spec sheets nothing to hide here, excellent anti-wear package. http://www.schaefferoil.com/engine-oils.html

hugie82

I think the biggest question is which off the shelf oil works best? We all can go out and buy the race oils and additives to save our motors but the guy who has an old engine that's still running good like me doesn't need a $50+ oil change. I've been using the Rotella diesel 15/40 oil without any problems for about 15 years now. I would say I've run about 50-60,000 miles so far and the motor has about 140,000 miles on it.
With that said, anyone who spends the money on a cam swap or new valve springs, I would advise to spend the money just to be on the safe side.
A personal note, I beat the snot out of this old engine! Burn outs, redline runs, 90+ mph runs! power slides! you name it .....

greggome

How does mobil 1 5W-30W high mileage rate? I have started using this on my 68 but I have been concerned it has the zinc I need.

63mako

1000 PPM Phosphorous, 1100 PPM Zinc. http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...duct_Guide.pdf

Ricky-Bobby

Another Rotella T user here - Excellent stuff........

63mako

Wiped 3 lobes on my cam with that stuff in 2006. Been numerous others that have had the same results. Stock cams have mild ramps and springs. if they are broken in right with a lot of miles the springs get weaker and if your not pushing a lot of rpm you don't know how much wear your getting until failure, then it is too late. Rotella has an additive package for diesels, High detergent, high in dispersants for soot that displace ZDDP on cam lobes and are not needed in gasoline engines. THIS IS COVERED IN POST #1 and the reason Diesel oils have higher levels of ZDDP and are excluded in the list. If an extra 10 to 30 dollars a year to run an oil with the correct additive package to protect your corvette engine long term is a deal breaker you need a new hobby.

MakoJoe

Have to agree Shell reformulated the Rotella oils years ago if you do a little research it dates back 7 or 8 years ago that Shell dropped the Zinc content in the oils.

If you choose to use Rotella you need to use the Triple T formula which still has High Zinc Content. Might be hard to find.

Shell ROTELLA® T Triple Protection

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shell_Rotella_T
It has over 1200 PPM of Zinc still in the oils.

63mako

Only the 15W-40 and 5W-40. Those grades are NOT bound to the <800 PPM standard to be rated as an SN. The 10W-30 is SN rated and that grade is required to have less than 800 PPM. The detergent levels in these oils are way higher to pass the CJ-4 qualifications. Detergents are polar molecules as is ZDDP. They fight for the same space and reduce the coverage of ZDDP on the extreme pressure loaded parts. This is why diesel oils have higher levels, they have to to provide similar protection.

Ricky-Bobby

Rotella T CJ-4 still has the 1,200+ ZDDP folks - just look at any recent VOA of Rotella T:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...pics/3226387/1

More good reading:

http://zddplus.com/about-us/tech-briefs/

Vogast

I went directly to Castrol and they checked their database a came up with this. Corvette in 1969 requires API MS which required a certain amount of detergent aditives. For that they suggested Castrol Magnatec 10W40 or 15W40 because this oil is supposed to have aditives similar to zddp. Any thoughts on that?