Installing a 200-4R into my '71 - questions on wiring
#22
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St. Jude Donor '06-'07
I got it from Shift Technology Products, which is found under Superior Transmission when you Google. It was difficult to find their information and parts numbers, etc... The part I used was #K052 Universal Adjustable Vacuum Switch.
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St. Jude Donor '06-'07
Very Informative thread.....
The 200r4 is my next project, and I have been talking to a shop, Transmission Depot, as I found them on e-bay, and they are only an hour from me.......
They say they will install the 200r4 with a carb kickdown.......and if I understand them correctly, I won't need any wiring or computer......
Can anyone shed any light on this, and could this be a solution for the OP...?????
The 200r4 is my next project, and I have been talking to a shop, Transmission Depot, as I found them on e-bay, and they are only an hour from me.......
They say they will install the 200r4 with a carb kickdown.......and if I understand them correctly, I won't need any wiring or computer......
Can anyone shed any light on this, and could this be a solution for the OP...?????
All the 200's have a kickdown linkage that must hook to the carb. It operates opposite of the throttle cable. This will downshift the trans any time you stomp on it and is adjustable. What I'm trying to do is delay the lockup in 4th (overdrive) so that when it shifts into 4th it doesn't immediately lock up. I want the shift from third to fourth, then a shift into overdrive. The vacuum switch runs off manifold vacuum, cutting the 12V signal to the trans (which locks 4th) when manifold vacuum drops - like on a steep hill, etc. I just don't want a toggle switch to engage or disengage the lock up like many have done here. You WILL need SOME wiring to operate the 200 unless you are going to disable the lock up function - but if you are using the 200, you might as well utilize the overdrive function. It can be very simple, or, as you can see, as complicated as you want to make it
#24
Instructor
No sh**......learning alot this morning......gelcoat and bezel finishing, and 200r4 install......
Is this a great forum or what??
Thanks BSeigPaint for the clarification on the hookup.......
Is this a great forum or what??
Thanks BSeigPaint for the clarification on the hookup.......
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St. Jude Donor '06-'07
Well, everything seems to work OK, but I have a HUGE oil leak at the front pan seal Gotta tear off the pan and get that fixed before I can go anywhere and test this out
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not sure about the 200r4 but with the 350c I found that when I let off the gas the engine would kind of act like a jake brake when the converter was locked up. My solution was to hookup the vacuum switch to the ported vacuum connection on the carberator. The switch was open at idle, open at WOT, closed at cruse.
Dale
Dale
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St. Jude Donor '06-'07
not sure about the 200r4 but with the 350c I found that when I let off the gas the engine would kind of act like a jake brake when the converter was locked up. My solution was to hookup the vacuum switch to the ported vacuum connection on the carberator. The switch was open at idle, open at WOT, closed at cruse.
Dale
Dale
I got the huge oil leak repaired this afternoon - just now finished. Note I didn't say "fixed", since I'm afraid to start the thing now. I replaced the oil pan gasket which took forever I'll try again tomorrow and see if I can get this thing on the road!
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St. Jude Donor '06-'07
Well, everything went to hell in a handbasket today. I guess first the feedback on the pressure switch was good and bad. While it did the shift delay like I intended, it wasn't adjustable to the point where it would work well with the manifold vacuum we have - so it shifted too early, but it shifted well. Second, the trans blew a front seal after about 3 miles, coating the entire car with tranny fluid and leaving me stranded. Which was nice. I guess I didn't have the TV adjustment right. I'm not quite sure if the seal is completely blown/ruined, or if it was just the weak spot where the pressure build finally let the fluid out, but boy, you should have seen the fluid flowing out onto the back of the converter I guess best case is that I only blew the seal, and not something else. I'm not sure how to tell other than taking the trans out again. Anyway, I'm done for a while. I've worked on this thing for way too long to have it all just crap out within 15 minutes of getting rolling again. I don't need to look at it for a few weeks. It makes me sick to my stomach to walk in the garage.
#30
Burning Brakes
Sorry to hear about your blown seal. Adjustment of the TV cable is important, but I haven't heard of it blowing a front seal. Not that it hasn't happend, I just haven't heard of it. Is the vent tube on the top of the trans clear and open? Here's an adjustment procedure that works for me.
http://www.tciauto.com/Products/Inst...ble_adjust.htm
If you want to delay the lock up of your torque converter you can wire it to a switch so you can choose when it locks up. All you have to do is interupt the 12v supply you have to the lock up selenoid. All you have to do is make sure the black wire is to ground (could be the 4th gear pressure switch, or a direct ground) and the red wire has 12v from the switch. Then you can select when you want to use the lock up. I use it in third depending on traffic, roads, etc., and in 4th again based on the situation. Works for me....
http://www.tciauto.com/Products/Inst...ble_adjust.htm
If you want to delay the lock up of your torque converter you can wire it to a switch so you can choose when it locks up. All you have to do is interupt the 12v supply you have to the lock up selenoid. All you have to do is make sure the black wire is to ground (could be the 4th gear pressure switch, or a direct ground) and the red wire has 12v from the switch. Then you can select when you want to use the lock up. I use it in third depending on traffic, roads, etc., and in 4th again based on the situation. Works for me....
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St. Jude Donor '06-'07
Sorry to hear about your blown seal. Adjustment of the TV cable is important, but I haven't heard of it blowing a front seal. Not that it hasn't happend, I just haven't heard of it. Is the vent tube on the top of the trans clear and open? Here's an adjustment procedure that works for me.
http://www.tciauto.com/Products/Inst...ble_adjust.htm
http://www.tciauto.com/Products/Inst...ble_adjust.htm
#32
Burning Brakes
I know what you mean, it's a pain after all the work you put in to see something like that. Hopefully the seal wasn't all the way in the front pump and that's all it is. I can't imagine anything else. You'll be able to see it when you pull the dust cover. It might take a mirror, but you'll be able to see what's going on. I doubt you killed it. I just changed the converter in mine. I finished late last Tuesday night and thought I had enough trans fluid on hand. I didn't, but I thought it was showing in the add area of the dipstick, so I took it around the neighborhood anyway. First gear was slipping so bad I was thouroughly pissed. Figured I'd top it off anyway just in case. It took 3 full quarts to get to full. Guess it was later than I thought on Tuesday night!!! It works fine now though. I didn't kill it. Yet.
You know, if the seal appears to be intact, another thought would be a cracked torque converter. I've never seen that, but you never know.
You know, if the seal appears to be intact, another thought would be a cracked torque converter. I've never seen that, but you never know.
#33
Drifting
The snout on the coverter do crack but rare. You should use loctite on the front seal when you install it, and use a seal retainer. They are known to spit out a front seal. The pump should be checked to see if the dranback passages were in larged this will reduce the chance of the seal being pushed out.
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St. Jude Donor '06-'07
Thanks, guys, that's encouraging. Art, I didn't know that Loctite was a good idea on the front seal, so it was installed dry. A seal retainer sounds like a must. Since the fluid poured only from the bottom, I'd eliminate the cracked converter, since I would assume that would spin fluid all over. I did not enlarge the drainback hole during the rebuild - I'll pull the pump out and do that. Oh, Lord, please, let it just be the front seal... I'll get inspired again this weekend and get back under there. I don't care so much about taking the trans out again, etc. - that's the easy part. It's cleaning up all that MESS!!! damaroso, I started doing the same thing as you. The rebuild info I was using said to start by adding 4 quarts to the dry trans, then do a quick spin over of the motor, then add until full. Somehow I got it in my head that "full" was 8 quarts. Couldn't understand why it wasn't full Got back on the computer and saw that "full" was 11 quarts! lol
#35
Drifting
Just got back from a local guy I use to rebuild my convertors I had 2 rebuilt and on one the snout had a hair line crack where it engages at the pump. Quite common he said
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St. Jude Donor '06-'07
So I go get a new front seal from NAPA, and in the box with the seal is a little note...
! ATTENTION !
To prevent this front pump oil seal (BK Part # 1-5092) from leaking and slipping, it is recommended to use a retainer clip (BK Part # 1-5067)!
The aluminum pump body stretches or expands when a seal is pressed in, so that after two or three seals it loses the press fit, and the seal continually blows out.
Nice to know. It would have been BETTER to know it when I rebuilt it, but it's nice to know.
I got the clip. I'm back at it Saturday morning. Come on by.
! ATTENTION !
To prevent this front pump oil seal (BK Part # 1-5092) from leaking and slipping, it is recommended to use a retainer clip (BK Part # 1-5067)!
The aluminum pump body stretches or expands when a seal is pressed in, so that after two or three seals it loses the press fit, and the seal continually blows out.
Nice to know. It would have been BETTER to know it when I rebuilt it, but it's nice to know.
I got the clip. I'm back at it Saturday morning. Come on by.
#37
Burning Brakes
If you were just a bit closer, I'd be happy to come by and lend a hand! Can you post pics of the seal clip when you get it installed? Next time I end up pulling my trans, I may just install one to be on the safe side!!
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St. Jude Donor '06-'07
I'll do it. And after this little experience, I'd make sure to have that clip on there no matter what! It was only like $3 or so - cheap insurance. It looks like a simple clip fitting - a ring with four little tabs on the side. I'm going to add red Loctite as well, just to give a little more strength. Hope to have some pics up by Saturday evening, because that will mean I'm done...
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St. Jude Donor '07
I'll do it. And after this little experience, I'd make sure to have that clip on there no matter what! It was only like $3 or so - cheap insurance. It looks like a simple clip fitting - a ring with four little tabs on the side. I'm going to add red Loctite as well, just to give a little more strength. Hope to have some pics up by Saturday evening, because that will mean I'm done...