jdp6000

Look at the diagram up above. Sounds like you have a couple of wires crossing. What you are saying I think is when you swapped the switches the one on the passenger side is still locking the driver side?

Notice the wiring is different for the right and left side.
Look at the wires on the replacement harness http://www.ecklers.com/search.asp?ac...searchHistory=


Anyway all I know is if both switches are not good or one or the other is not good the power locks will not work. If you have the wires mixed up....same problem.

SteveKoz

Thanks for the reply. Just the opposite. Driver side will just LOCK both sides. When I swapped switches still Driver side will just LOCK both sides. What I thought was the good switch on the drivers side now I'm not sure. I'm leaning towards the replacement switches but at $39 a piece I'd like to know if I need one or two. Yea, I know.. buy two and eliminate the switches as the problem.. but I'd like to see if there is anything else to do before throwing money at it. I did notice the ground on the pass side was a little loose. Confidence wasn't in the ground wire being faulty because the LOCK worked.. but was something that needed attention.

Stu's81

Where can you get the replacement rivets from? Do I just drill out the old ones?

jdp6000

Rivits for what?

Jim

Stu's81

The ones that hold the power door lock bracket to the door?

jdp6000

If there are rivits you need to drill them out. You can replace the rivits with a nut and lock bolt when re-installing. Make sure they are the same size as the rivit. Make sure they are not long bolts...should be almost flush when you put the nut on.

Jim

78pace

Thinging maybe the passenger side aculator???

Stu's81

Yep, drilled them out and will replace with stainless nut&bolts.

SteveKoz

OK.. So I decided I needed to make sure the actuators worked before placing an order for parts. I removed both door panels and exposed the actuator wires and switches. Once you see the drivers side wires at the actuator it was pretty easy to test. I tapped into the hot feed on the drivers side switch. I then spliced into two of the 4 wires leading into the drivers side actuator. Apply juice to one wire and ground the other and both doors locked. Switch wires and did the same.. Both locks opened. So now I know I don't need actuators. I ordered one new switch and see where that leads me. I'm going to try doing some more testing to make sure Drivers switch wires are reaching Pass side wires while I wait for parts. Maybe a mouse got in there and bit through something..

Here are a couple pics of what I did. Hope it helps someone.

http://s405.photobucket.com/albums/p...ideresized.jpg

http://s405.photobucket.com/albums/p...deBresized.jpg

Jantonb

I wanted to jump onto this thread because I too am having issues with my 81 power door locks.

The locks were not working at all and I was also having issues with window regulators, so I've decided to rebuilt the doors completely…windows, motor, regulator, panels, arm rests…the works. I purchased 2 new lock switches, 2 lock motors and 2 new pigtails.

Installed all new lock components, pigtails, switches and motors. Connected the battery back up and immediately blew a fuse. So…yeah….there is a short….but where? I blew 2 fuses trying to find it. I did discover that with the switches not attached to the pigtails, no short happens. Help me track down the short or what's causing the short. Pigtail wires are butted to corresponding colors with the exception of the driver's side. Pink(original) to light blue (replacement) and Purple (original) to black (replacement)

Ideas?

Jet Tech

Here is a post I made to a previous odor lock thread, hopefully it can help...



I agree with Gusto, if you are hearing the pop yet the door is not reliably locking/unlocking, clean and lubricate the latch mechanism, lock rod pivot and all rod connections. I also installed the actuators that Willcox sells as my originals had enough drag to make using the key difficult. The replacement actuators are made overseas but work well and have a much nicer rubber boot than the originals. I purchased some metric button head Allen's to fit the supplied nut plates.

I did not have to replace switches but during research found that there are different grades of switches, some absolute junk and some decent replacements. I have also read that some replacements don't have the word "LOCK" on the bezel.

Another common area for trouble is the switch pigtail.

You of course need to remove the door panels but all in all, working in the doors was quite rewarding when finished. Great opportunity to clean, lube and get the power windows working smoothly.

There was a helpful article that I found while searching Corvette Enthusiast magazine titled, Tired of Key Twisting. I don't have the link handy but if you don't find it let me know.

My car is a 79.

texasbaehr

When I bought my 81 the door locks did not work at all. I pulled the door panels and found the PO had removed the actuators. I found the brackets on Ebay and bought new actuators. They worked great once then blew the fuse. The circuit has my radio and interior lights on it so its really annoying when it blows. I have replaced everything and it still pops the fuse only if I lock with the drivers side switch. I cannot find where it is shorting, its not in the door panel. So now I need to run a new hot wire in the circuit and abandon the current one in the harness.