Rudy's Stingray

Greetings!

It's been quite a while since I visited last.
I'm thinking ahead so in the next couple of weeks when I go
and start the car and bring it home for the weekend, I get my issue
resolved.

Prior to the time I put the car up for the Winter - (October, 09') the
casted metal gooseneck base at the intake manifold was leaking
coolant. I replaced the thermostat. Initially, I used a Felpro gasket for
it and it leaked. I then used the red Permatex sealant and it still
leaked.

I cleaned the base of the gooseneck housing and the intake throughly.
I used a torque wrench and tightened the bolts to the specific load.
Off hand I can't say exactly what that was. I looked it up at the time.

Are the bolts worn out and should I replace them?
Did I use the wrong sealant? There is pitting on the bottom surface of
the gooseneck. I sanded it slightly using a disc sander last fall.
Does it need to be sanded more?

Thanks ahead of time.

Rudy

midyearvette

permatex makes an antifreeze specific rtv for that application..it is grey in color and usually seals up pitted parts nicely...let it dry 24 hours....i think they call it water pump and housing sealant....

cam cooper

its not cracked by chance is it? i had one crack and it was next to impossable to see.

Duke94

Can you tell if it leaks at the bolt heads or the gasket face? The bolt boss inside the manifold could be cracked (to long of a bolt used?) causing the coolant to leak out the bolt hole.

Gary

stingraymyway

The Felpro gasket is what you need but it won't do it alone. Gasket sealer's aren't all equal. Get the GM gasket sealer, gray, from a GM parts dept.
Make sure ALL the old gasket/sealer is scraped off both the housing and intake. Use a razor and make sure it's all removed. Spread a thin layer with your finger around the thermastat opening on the intake. Also spread a thin layer on the housing. Apply the Felpro gasket to the housing and set it on the intake. Not sure of the exact torque spec. A mechanic told me to use the "german method= goodntight".
Had the same problem and this method fixed my leak.

stingraymyway

P.S.
Let this sit over night/24hrs so that it will bond.

Rudy's Stingray

Gents,
These are all good points you have made.
I'm fairly certain there are no cracks in either the gooseneck base
or the manifold. The bolts are originals so they are not too long.

I thought possibly they were either worn out or not tight enough in
addition to my gasket issue. I will go to the local Chevy dealer and get
their brand of sealant and buy another gasket and try this again.

Many thanks.

stingraymyway

Let us know how it turns out.

Ray Y

I had one that was cracked from the bolt hole out to the edge from being overtightened at some point. It took me forever to see the crack because the bolt head hid most of it, and well maybe because I'm too stuborn to wear glasses most of the time.

Good luck with yours.

CCrane65

My '72 leaked from the thermostat housing to intake manifold mating surface. I read about a special gasket that is thicker and specifically made for this purpose. It is blue and costs about $15.00...and works like a charm.

I got mine from O'Reillys and they didn't keep them in stock so it took a day to get it.

cc

Rudy's Stingray

Greetings!
I picked the car up from storage and drove it to Advance Auto today,
in search of a new gasket and to look at the new water neck housings.

It sure felt good to drive her again. The crystal clear blue skies and 50
degree air was just the thing for her. It ran cool (160 degrees) and
other than the water neck still leaking, it ran like a top.

I asked the manager if he knew of anyone making/selling correct style
(Cast) OEM water necks. He entered my info into the computer and
said it will be in stock tomorrow. Price: $11.99.

He thought I should forego the Permatex and put the new gasket on
dry, hand tighten the bolts on and do 1/2 to full turns with a wrench
until it feels good and secure. Your thoughts......

Also, how long after I put it on should I wait before I drive?

Thanks.

Rudy

stingraymyway

You'll leak.
Get the GM gasket sealer.

noonie

Here is the proper rtv grey, Stewart even ships it with their pumps.
I have been using any rtv, silicone bath tub sealant, silicone gasket maker, etc for decades.

...Roger...

Thats a very common place to leak. I find most housings to be be warped so the gasket is not held tight in the center,no sealer will last. I put the housing on sandpaper and work it until the housing is flat.
( If your therm housing is chrome cheapy IMO you should throw it away.)

rfenn82

i just bought a 1977 two weeks ago and i have that same problem. i cleaned mine today and changed the gasket but it still leaked. it did have the orange silicone and it has the chrome housing. i went to the auto stores to buy a replacement housing but they only have the chrome ones. where can i get a normal housing.

noonie

Do the flat sanding trick with it that roger mentioned to either rough up the chrome or sand it off completely and it should be fine.

Don't use a disc sander like the OP did.

Rudy's Stingray

Well,
I'm not sure if I didn't put enough of the gasket sealer on it or not.
I put a very thin layer just so it wouldn't move but alas, there is still a leak!

I used the above mentioned from Permatex.
This grinds me to no end and it's a new housing to boot.

In regards to the factory type "Cast" housing, I had mine ordered
through Advanced Auto Parts. Cost: $11.99.

Avette4me

My first thought.

noonie

Try wrapping some sandpaper around a little piece of flat wood or something and level the top of the manifold. Make sure the recess for the tstat is clean. You can even helicoil the threads if aluminum or put studs in with sealant.

If everything is straight and tight should have no leaks.

Aflac

before you start sanding, i'd check it with a straight edge...