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I have been trying to get my Vette back on the road. Took radiator out to have fixed and got a bad case of the "while I'm at it". Two years later I am starting to gain intrest in the car again and want to get it back on the road. However, I still want to get rid of the old chattering clutch. The engine is basically stock '76 with RPM intake, edelbrock carb, and hooker super comps. Here are the two clutches I have been looking at. I want something easy to drive but a step up from factory that I could use with a better engine once this one goes.
I've used Centerforce clutches in my 12second 1/4mile/autocross LT-1 Vette with good results. You have to properly break them in an watch pedal freeplay for first 3000 miles or a Centerforce will unload at high RPM if there isn't enough freeplay and destroy your clutch disc.
My opnion on McLeod clutches, they have heavy springs and I don't care for them nor was the OEM Vette linkage designed for a heavy clutch spring.
I have a Centerforce II clutch and PP, NOT the Dual Friction, and have been very happy with it. It was essentially a drop in from the stock setup. They are sometimes a little noisy at idle because of the counterweight system they have on the PP, I don't hear anything on mine but some others here have commented on it.
My opnion on McLeod clutches, they have heavy springs and I don't care for them nor was the OEM Vette linkage designed for a heavy clutch spring.
That is one thing I am trying to avoid and one of my reasons for asking. Thanks
About the noise from the Centerforce clutches. I have read that some have removed the weights to eliminate this. Just wondering if anyone had any info on doing so. Thanks, Kevin
I like autocrossing so I bought a Centerforce dual friction...no noise that I can remember...you do have to make sure the weights move freely before you install, and you need to use a proper throwout bearing...I think some some have lips which will hit the weights. Also, centerforce ships their clutches with a "starter" clutch disk which has very little friction material...it wears out within a year, so make sure you order a disk as well as the clutch (even though it says a disk is included)...though they may have changed their policy and include a full pad disk now...call before ordering, or at least inspect the box as soon as you get it.
I like autocrossing so I bought a Centerforce dual friction...no noise that I can remember...you do have to make sure the weights move freely before you install, and you need to use a proper throwout bearing...I think some some have lips which will hit the weights. Also, centerforce ships their clutches with a "starter" clutch disk which has very little friction material...it wears out within a year, so make sure you order a disk as well as the clutch (even though it says a disk is included)...though they may have changed their policy and include a full pad disk now...call before ordering, or at least inspect the box as soon as you get it.
What type of throwout bearing do I need and where should I get it. Also, about the "starter" disc, is that just another way for them to get more from us. I have never bought a performance clutch before so some of this is new to me.
Forget the big name mass marketers. Just go to a good clutch shop and ask them what you need. They can custom build about any combination you want for usually about half the price. What will surprise you is that the big name people and the good cutch shops all buy their parts from the same sources in most instances. Unless you are running 600 HP or more, you don't need anything more than what a good shop can build. I built clutches for 30 years, so I've 'been there - done that'. I can suggest a good shop if you pm me. As far as 'dual friction' goes, that's nothing special. Any shop can do that. I don't understand a starter clutch. The overall thickness of a disk must be .310 in most GM cases, so a thinner friction makes no sence. That would make the finger hgt. too high.
What type of throwout bearing do I need and where should I get it. Also, about the "starter" disc, is that just another way for them to get more from us. I have never bought a performance clutch before so some of this is new to me.
I bought the clutch kit from them, Pressure Plate, Throwout Bearing, Disk; the throwout bearing looks just like the standard GM unit. I have no idea what the previous poster is talking about(starter kit). The clutch disk that came with mine is a standard clutch that smokes the rears whenever you want. I've had it for 2 years now.
The weights are easily removed if you wish by cutting the retention wires or springs (can't remember which) that hold them in. I've read a couple of posts from guys who've done it.
I bought the clutch kit from them, Pressure Plate, Throwout Bearing, Disk; the throwout bearing looks just like the standard GM unit. I have no idea what the previous poster is talking about(starter kit). The clutch disk that came with mine is a standard clutch that smokes the rears whenever you want. I've had it for 2 years now.
The weights are easily removed if you wish by cutting the retention wires or springs (can't remember which) that hold them in. I've read a couple of posts from guys who've done it.
Thanks for the reply. How is the pedal pressure with yours. Also, do you have any problems with the noise from the weights. Thanks again, Kevin
Thanks for the reply. How is the pedal pressure with yours. Also, do you have any problems with the noise from the weights. Thanks again, Kevin
I have no problems with noise from mine. Pedal pressure feels like a standard GM clutch, it is not stiff. It does have a slightly different feel the way it releases. Takes a little getting used to but it's just the mechanics of the clutch, sort of a cantilevered action.
From: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
LUK clutches.
Why do u need a racing clutch? Try a stock BB 11" disc and PP from LUK. I bought mine from Northern Auto Parts Wharehouse for 'bout $100. You should have a 26 spline Borg Warner 4sp like mine. Just go for the 11" set up from LUK.
Your 350" sb is very mild performance almost stock. A BB 11" setup will be more than enough for your piece of mind and save u plenty of $$$.
Why do u need a racing clutch? Try a stock BB 11" disc and PP from LUK. I bought mine from Northern Auto Parts Wharehouse for 'bout $100. You should have a 26 spline Borg Warner 4sp like mine. Just go for the 11" set up from LUK.
Your 350" sb is very mild performance almost stock. A BB 11" setup will be more than enough for your piece of mind and save u plenty of $$$.
Hope this helps,
cardo0
I dont need an all out racing clutch, but I would like to upgrade to more of a performance clutch than the factory clutch. Not that the factory clutches are bad...just the way my mind works. If I am going to buy one I thought I would just get one that could handle more engine when that time gets here. Thanks, Kevin
Can you explain this a little more for me? Thank, Kevin
Kind of hard to explain but as you start to release it, the pedal travels some amount of distance with only a little reaction. As you release it more the amount of reaction you get becomes greater with less pedal distance than before.
Kind of hard to explain but as you start to release it, the pedal travels some amount of distance with only a little reaction. As you release it more the amount of reaction you get becomes greater with less pedal distance than before.
Kinda like clutch is engaged or disengaged..not much in between?
I am one who has removed the weights from my Centerforce clutch. I have removed them from other Centerforce clutches also. Never had a problem and my Centerforce DF clutch has taken everything I can throw at it without a problem.