New 160 thermostat. Running 180. 205 highway
06-20-2010, 08:42 PM
#1
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New 160 thermostat. Running 180. 205 highway
All new hoses. Radiator maybe 3 to 4 years old. New thermostat. New coolant. Spring in lower hose.?????????????????
06-20-2010, 08:46 PM
#2
Team Owner
ALL of the above but drill maybe 3 3/16 holes in the apron of the t-stat itself....in that flange surrounding the active stat mechanism....
flow is increased, if in winter it should shut down to ensure engine temp...
but the increased flow in summer should help a LOT.....
flow is increased, if in winter it should shut down to ensure engine temp...
but the increased flow in summer should help a LOT.....
Last edited by mrvette; 06-20-2010 at 08:50 PM.
06-20-2010, 08:53 PM
#3
Race Director
You do understand that putting a 160* thermostat in the car does not mean it will run at 160* right? It will only run there if your cooling system is up to that task. Is your timing set correctly? Timing will affect coolant temps also. I am happy with 180 in mine. The difference in mine and yours though, is my temps around town, climb up to around 200 and stay. The fan will cool it down to 190, but it will climb right back up to 200 or so. Once moving mine drops back down to 180.
06-20-2010, 09:37 PM
#5
Race Director
What would you expect, the thermostat opens at 160....and the engine temperature is higher...Its circulating faster than the radiator can cool it.....your lucky it`s only 180 it could be higher...as you already experienced
06-20-2010, 10:13 PM
#8
Team Owner
Putting a 180 stat in place of the 160 will accomplish just one thing: your engine will take less time to warm up to 180, and then up to 205 on the highway. It baffles me how much misunderstanding there is of a simple thermostat. The thermostat is there to help the engine warm up faster...NO OTHER REASON THAN THAT. The stat does NOT set the system temperature; that is accomplished by the combined effects of the components of the system, the outside air temperature, and [probably] a 100 other minor variables that few people know and fewer, yet, understand.
The engine and the water pump make heat...because they do "work". The radiator, the engine block, the exhaust system, and the oil pan lose heat...because they are all warmer than the ambient air around them. If the "heat system" makes more heat than the "cooling system" can lose, the temperature goes UP. Once that combined system stabilizes, you know what the operating temperature of that "total system" will be [at the existing ambient conditions]. If that system is too hot for you, then improve the 'heat loss' side of the system; if it is too cool for you, add heat...or, better yet, block the action of the cooling system. Hey, you could even install a higher temperature thermostat!!
The engine and the water pump make heat...because they do "work". The radiator, the engine block, the exhaust system, and the oil pan lose heat...because they are all warmer than the ambient air around them. If the "heat system" makes more heat than the "cooling system" can lose, the temperature goes UP. Once that combined system stabilizes, you know what the operating temperature of that "total system" will be [at the existing ambient conditions]. If that system is too hot for you, then improve the 'heat loss' side of the system; if it is too cool for you, add heat...or, better yet, block the action of the cooling system. Hey, you could even install a higher temperature thermostat!!
Last edited by 7T1vette; 06-20-2010 at 10:16 PM.
06-21-2010, 08:35 AM
#10
Team Owner
Education can often be a 'fleeting' thing.... 
06-21-2010, 08:41 AM
#11
Burning Brakes
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06-21-2010, 11:04 AM
#12
Drifting
Not that this has anything to do with the posters question but I have to chime in here and mention that there seems to be an odd obsession on this forum, in regards to engine temps and how cool a lot of folks want them to be. It is just an observation I have noticed over the years on this forum that I find odd....
06-21-2010, 01:23 PM
#13
Burning Brakes
mine actually climbed higher on the highway than I was comfortable with so I just ripped the whole thing out and put in a DeWitts with dual Spals, cool as a cucumber now.
Remember, your cooling system was designed for the factory engine, if you have made some mods it may not be keeping up.
I discovered I had no spring in my lower hose, and was surprised to find out that we don't need them anymore with the new hoses.
Remember, your cooling system was designed for the factory engine, if you have made some mods it may not be keeping up.
I discovered I had no spring in my lower hose, and was surprised to find out that we don't need them anymore with the new hoses.
06-21-2010, 05:11 PM
#16
Team Owner
06-21-2010, 07:12 PM
#17
Melting Slicks
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St. Jude Donor '05-'06,'11,'13-'14,'16,'18,'19
first I don't disagree with most info posted, but I would like to add a couple things;
the T-stat will modulate the temps when the system is functioning correctly.
GM designed excess capacity into the system for the stock set up. but everything must be working as designed and in good working order.
The flow area of a 160* stat is larger than the flow area of a 180* stat (stock design). changing the stat to a 160* may drop the temps due to the increase in flow over the 180* but it more than likely wont be much at all if any.
carb'ed engines are more susceptible to percolation when ran over around 190* (hard to start after siting for a little while).
AF ratios will change a good bit from 180* to 210*, as the temps go up the mixture will get richer.
Neal
the T-stat will modulate the temps when the system is functioning correctly.
GM designed excess capacity into the system for the stock set up. but everything must be working as designed and in good working order.
The flow area of a 160* stat is larger than the flow area of a 180* stat (stock design). changing the stat to a 160* may drop the temps due to the increase in flow over the 180* but it more than likely wont be much at all if any.
carb'ed engines are more susceptible to percolation when ran over around 190* (hard to start after siting for a little while).
AF ratios will change a good bit from 180* to 210*, as the temps go up the mixture will get richer.
Neal
06-21-2010, 11:39 PM
#18
Melting Slicks
As stated above, if you've added HP (RPMs, compression, etc) you're adding heat and you're likely asking too much of your factory cooling system.
If your cooling system isn't up the job, it won't matter what thrermostat you change to.
It sounds like it's time for a new aluminum radiator that meets the needs, and a high-flow water pump. Stewart makes great pumps.
To correct some of the postings above, yes, your cooling system will and should run at the thermostat's rating if the cooling system is up to the job.
Secondly, somebody said that the coolant was flowing too fast through the cooling system causing the coolant temps to rise. This is an old wives' tale. More here (see 3rd paragraph):
http://www.stewartcomponents.com/tec...ech_Tips_3.htm
If your cooling system isn't up the job, it won't matter what thrermostat you change to.
It sounds like it's time for a new aluminum radiator that meets the needs, and a high-flow water pump. Stewart makes great pumps.
To correct some of the postings above, yes, your cooling system will and should run at the thermostat's rating if the cooling system is up to the job.
Secondly, somebody said that the coolant was flowing too fast through the cooling system causing the coolant temps to rise. This is an old wives' tale. More here (see 3rd paragraph):
http://www.stewartcomponents.com/tec...ech_Tips_3.htm
Last edited by 73, Dark Blue 454; 06-21-2010 at 11:42 PM.
06-22-2010, 12:45 AM
#19
Race Director
As stated above, if you've added HP (RPMs, compression, etc) you're adding heat and you're likely asking too much of your factory cooling system.
If your cooling system isn't up the job, it won't matter what thrermostat you change to.
It sounds like it's time for a new aluminum radiator that meets the needs, and a high-flow water pump. Stewart makes great pumps.
To correct some of the postings above, yes, your cooling system will and should run at the thermostat's rating if the cooling system is up to the job.
Secondly, somebody said that the coolant was flowing too fast through the cooling system causing the coolant temps to rise. This is an old wives' tale. More here (see 3rd paragraph):
http://www.stewartcomponents.com/tec...ech_Tips_3.htm
If your cooling system isn't up the job, it won't matter what thrermostat you change to.
It sounds like it's time for a new aluminum radiator that meets the needs, and a high-flow water pump. Stewart makes great pumps.
To correct some of the postings above, yes, your cooling system will and should run at the thermostat's rating if the cooling system is up to the job.
Secondly, somebody said that the coolant was flowing too fast through the cooling system causing the coolant temps to rise. This is an old wives' tale. More here (see 3rd paragraph):
http://www.stewartcomponents.com/tec...ech_Tips_3.htm
06-22-2010, 05:53 AM
#20
Team Owner
A high-performance engine [alone] will not necessarily cause an overheating problem. Putting out more power will cause more heat to be produced; but, for normal vehicle operation, it takes no more power to operate the car than it did before the engine was modified.
When the engine is being asked to produce more power than previously available, more heat is being dumped into the cooling system. But whether that amount of heat becomes 'excessive' is determined by the capacity of the existing system. The original cooling systems were capable of stop-&-go traffic conditions in hot, desert conditions. But, I'm sure they were NOT capable of 'hard' running for very long with high ambient heat.
And a hi-flo water pump is probably not going to help anything, unless the radiator is replaced with a much more capable model than came in the car. If you install such a pump with a stock radiator, it will likely cause more heat to be produced due to the extra work done by the pump...but the radiator is no more efficient than before.
When the engine is being asked to produce more power than previously available, more heat is being dumped into the cooling system. But whether that amount of heat becomes 'excessive' is determined by the capacity of the existing system. The original cooling systems were capable of stop-&-go traffic conditions in hot, desert conditions. But, I'm sure they were NOT capable of 'hard' running for very long with high ambient heat.
And a hi-flo water pump is probably not going to help anything, unless the radiator is replaced with a much more capable model than came in the car. If you install such a pump with a stock radiator, it will likely cause more heat to be produced due to the extra work done by the pump...but the radiator is no more efficient than before.