Bob Onit

Thanks Roger, I think I'll just mark or count the threads so I can get it back to how it was if it doesn't work out

...Roger...

Bob from what I've heard some guys don't touch the adjusters,they just pull the clips and move the 2 rods from the top hole to the bottom hole.
Some have said the holes were positioned in the arm in a way no adjustment is necessary ,as I said I can't confirm.

Bob Onit

That sounds too easy for a Corvette

I finally got my buddy's Chevy S-10 off my pit in my garage
4 days to change a 5 speed..... (dont ask) so now I can use my pit for my Corvette

...Roger...

Sounds like you deserve an easy fix , let us know !

Allen_396

Not quite yet.

(warning... rant coming on)


I apparently need help effectively communicating exactly what I'm looking for. Or, I just need to find some people that understand and may have actually seen an old four-speed some time in their lives.

I printed off a page from the assembly manual showing that clevis pin, washer, and cotter pin that I'm looking for. I went to Autozone, O'Reilly's, and Advanced. The various people in those stores had no idea. Nothing was in their computer nor in that 'help' section of accessories, so I didn't get anything to fix this right.

I also stopped at the local Tractor Supply Co. thinking they might have the right parts and / or someone who might know what to look for, and came up with nothing there either.

Does anyone know what the diameter / length of that pin should be?

Or, I guess I can just be patient and order it from Willcox.

Faster Rat

What clevis pin, washer and cotter pin? Before you were just talking about the spring clip that came off the 1-2 shift rod where it attaches to the shift lever on the transmission shaft.

...Roger...

The 73 I just had apart used a pin and cotter pin on 1-2 and a spring clip on 3-4.
The connector on the 1-2 straddles the lever on some years.

EDIT- Here is a diagram showing the pin. I thought I remember some years using the same connection for 1-2 and 3-4. I could be thinking of Hurst linkage.
http://willcoxcorvette.com/repairand...lp.php?hID=177

Allen_396

You got it! Items 1, 2, & 12 on the diagram that you linked. It's for the 1-2 shift rod. Those are the parts I need.

...Roger...

When I suggested NAPA I was also thinking you needed just a spring clip. That clevis might be tough to find. I would try the little cardboard drawers at ACE , Lowes or Home depot.

Advance and AZ should have them in the back in their little metal boxes,if you can get anyone to look.

Allen_396

Nope... that was what I groused about earlier. The people in those stores had no interest in looking any further than saying "I can't find it on the computer" and "maybe you'll see one in the HELP section of parts, otherwise I don't know what to tell you".

...Roger...

My Autozone is the same way , if the store manager is there he just says go back and get find what you need but if he's not I have to drive a couple miles to Advance to try there.
Its getting harder and harder to find a "parts" store.

Allen_396

Thanks everyone for your help!

The suggestions and pictures, and the correct parts from Willcox Corvette (thanks Ernie!) have got me back on the road again.

shrekviper

This sounds like the same problem I have. I only have Reverse and 2nd. I can't move over to the 3-4 gate and it hits the console when I go into 1st and only grinds the gears. Does this mean my 1-2 has slipped out and is blocking the 3-4 gate?

It looks like the left pipe will need to come out, or could I rent someone's 8 year old to get their arms up there? Did you have to take the shifter out or were you able to get it fixed from underneath?

Allen_396

From the bottom, you can see if the linkage is still hooked up. If not, the potential is there for it to slip out of those 'gates'. I was able to manipulate it back into place using the advice and pictures supplied in this thread. Basically, it was a matter of moving the rods underneath, and then the shifter on top a couple of times.

shrekviper

Thanks. I guess I'll employ the wife to move the shifter around up top while I work the linkages below.

...Roger...

Make sure you didn't do anything to pizz her off in the last week , watch your fingers !!!

Cajun-in-tx

well today I decided to change my 72 from a long throw to a short. The moving of the rods was easy then the fun began. I had the car in reverse when I started figuring it would be easier to manipulate the transmission levers if needed to make removing the pins easier. I got the adjustments swapped to the lower holes and was thinking to myself; "self this was the easiest thing I have ever done to this car."

As I was ready to take it for a spin it was stuck in the reverse gate..... I could not get the shifter to move out of the reverse gate. I get the car back on jacks again and have my neighbor move the shifter while I moved the 1st - 2nd rod from under the car. When I did this he was able to get the car into neutral. he was then easily able to shift it from the 1/2 - 3/4 gates with no issue. We were able to move it into reverse from the stick just never out without moving the rods from below. I decided to take the car for a spin with no reverse to see if I liked the short throw before making any adjustments to the rods. I really like the short throw much better (why did they not all come this way....)

My question is it looks like from the diagram in the service manual or the link above I would just need to adjust nuts 4 on the revers linkage until it shifts freely from reverse to 1-2 is this the case or is there something else to consider. I here some people mentioned an adjustment tool of some kind.

Also since i can't get into 1-2 it seems the reverse gate needs to be moved further back so i would need to loosen the nuts on the shaft to accomplish this. (thoughts/comments)

TIA