Courtesy lights and voltmeter flutter when idling
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Courtesy lights and voltmeter flutter when idling
I am thinking this points to an alternator issue? May be part of the rectifier bridge is toast? Once the RPMs increase, the fluttering goes away and do return when the RPMs drop to idle... thoughts?
#2
Race Director
BINGO...that is where I would start or at least verify all connections are secure.
I have found that sometimes it is a loose wire or partially broken wire that at idle is not making contact...but when the engine moves it joins back and the wire comes back together.
DUB
I have found that sometimes it is a loose wire or partially broken wire that at idle is not making contact...but when the engine moves it joins back and the wire comes back together.
DUB
#3
My money is on the regulator. Test it all.
#4
Melting Slicks
you can rebuild that alternator yourself, especially if it is original, just go O'reilly's and get the needed parts , go on line to search a video to rebuild it, doesn't take many tools, just mark the case so you don't change the clocking of it. They can also check your alternator off or on the car, but watch who you let check it!! maybe take it to 2 or 3 places , or to a shop that rebuilds them professionally.
Last edited by lvmyvt76; 12-28-2017 at 06:05 AM.
#5
Racer
Thread Starter
Rebuilt alternator fixed the problem
A rebuilt alternator from O'Reilly has fixed this problem. No more light or voltmeter flutter. Yay!
#6
Le Mans Master
I stopped using rebuilt electrical components about 20 years ago as long as I can source the part new, which usually you can, and the cost difference is not much more than a rebuilt, in many cases. Oh I don't care about lifetime warranty's since an alternator/starter failure can be VERY INCONVIENENT and dangerous, depending when they occur. I don't care if O'Reillys or Autozone warranty's their rebuilt junk.......
I replaced the C3 alternator with NEW CS144 140 amp unit 10 years ago and still going strong. Also, a new alternator and new starter on my daughters 2001 Grand Prix (bought new in 01) both of which have 100,000 and 130,000 miles on the new units......
Last edited by jb78L-82; 01-07-2018 at 07:28 AM.
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Lagonia (01-07-2018)
#7
Race Director
I personally would rebuild the OEM alternator now (hopefully you did not exchange it). Electrically rebuilt alternators, starters, etc are junk most of the time and, in my experience, will ultimately fail, prematurely, since you have no idea when it was "rebuilt", what exactly was changed...they do NOT change all the components on rebuilt electrical units.
I stopped using rebuilt electrical components about 20 years ago as long as I can source the part new, which usually you can, and the cost difference is not much more than a rebuilt, in many cases. Oh I don't care about lifetime warranty's since an alternator/starter failure can be VERY INCONVIENENT and dangerous, depending when they occur. I don't care if O'Reillys or Autozone warranty's their rebuilt junk.......
I replaced the C3 alternator with NEW CS144 140 amp unit 10 years ago and still going strong. Also, a new alternator and new starter on my daughters 2001 Grand Prix (bought new in 01) both of which have 100,000 and 130,000 miles on the new units......
I stopped using rebuilt electrical components about 20 years ago as long as I can source the part new, which usually you can, and the cost difference is not much more than a rebuilt, in many cases. Oh I don't care about lifetime warranty's since an alternator/starter failure can be VERY INCONVIENENT and dangerous, depending when they occur. I don't care if O'Reillys or Autozone warranty's their rebuilt junk.......
I replaced the C3 alternator with NEW CS144 140 amp unit 10 years ago and still going strong. Also, a new alternator and new starter on my daughters 2001 Grand Prix (bought new in 01) both of which have 100,000 and 130,000 miles on the new units......
Now I do not take the time to rebuild alternators and starters due to I have a great rebuilding service company that does it for me....and it is actually a better cost ratio for my customer due to my labor rate. And at least I KNOW what has been done and it is RIGHT!
DUB
#8
Racer
Thread Starter
I still have the original one - not clear, though, if indeed it is the original one or one that has been swapped before - are there any tell tale signs I should look for? If not the original, not worth keeping it, I don't think. I appreciate your opinions greatly.