taking the paint off
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 5,381
Likes: 415
From: N J
That depends on how many layers of paints and primers you have to remove. After you hit the gelcoat, then you can get stainless steel scouring pads from a resturant supply along with some laquer thinner and continue down to the bare glass. Scrub and wipe, scrub and wipe. Its not excatly a quick process with the chemical, at least for me it wasnt cause I had so many layers of coatings to remove. Perhaps a combo of blades on flat areas and chemicals in the curves is a quicker route to take. And youre right, getting in the door hinge area and up by the windshield takes longer than broad open areas. When all done, hit it with the water a few times to kill off any residue, as others have said. Dont stripp on Monday and start priming on Tuesday. Wait a while, wash, let the sun hit it. 
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 8,812
Likes: 2,029
From: eastern NC
I stripped the paint off of this car back in 1970 with, believe it or not, a "jack-knife"... and lots of sharpening... I just got started one day and found the going to be pretty easy. Time consuming and hard on the hands, but very inexpensive.
Today I do it this way... "soda-blasting". It's very fast, usually done in a day and very easy on the fiberglass, not to mention the fingers. Considering the time you would spend stripping it otherwise, I think it's even a bit of a bargain. Typically $800 to $1000 around here.
If you do decide to do it chemically, read and follow the instructions carefully. I've seen results show up months after the car (fiberglass) was painted when it was done by a non professional that decided to leave the stripper on too long... in hopes that it would work even better...
Good luck... GUSTO
Today I do it this way... "soda-blasting". It's very fast, usually done in a day and very easy on the fiberglass, not to mention the fingers. Considering the time you would spend stripping it otherwise, I think it's even a bit of a bargain. Typically $800 to $1000 around here.
If you do decide to do it chemically, read and follow the instructions carefully. I've seen results show up months after the car (fiberglass) was painted when it was done by a non professional that decided to leave the stripper on too long... in hopes that it would work even better...
Good luck... GUSTO
Racer
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 427
Likes: 1
Hi 377. You mentioned it is getting 'cold'. Paint stripper likes some heat to operate effectively. About 70 degrees, too hot and it dries up before it does the job and too cold it wont lift anything. I have used it in the past numerous times with success, lacquer thinner to clean up or acetone is the secret. Select a fiberglass compatable stripper. Keep in mind that stipper can soften bodyfiller. Check all of your work. Be aware of a fire hazard with all of that product moving around.
As a tip, edge mask off all doors, headlight covers, hood and other areas where you do not want to get stripper down inside. Once stripped you can finish sanding to the edge. Pull the bumpers.
My 76 had the orignal lacquer finish and two other enamal paint jobs on top. I used 150 grit on a DA orbital and was able to control the whole process, time consuming but successful.
Dano.
As a tip, edge mask off all doors, headlight covers, hood and other areas where you do not want to get stripper down inside. Once stripped you can finish sanding to the edge. Pull the bumpers.
My 76 had the orignal lacquer finish and two other enamal paint jobs on top. I used 150 grit on a DA orbital and was able to control the whole process, time consuming but successful.
Dano.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 246
Likes: 2
From: colonia New jeresy
Hi 377. You mentioned it is getting 'cold'. Paint stripper likes some heat to operate effectively. About 70 degrees, too hot and it dries up before it does the job and too cold it wont lift anything. I have used it in the past numerous times with success, lacquer thinner to clean up or acetone is the secret. Select a fiberglass compatable stripper. Keep in mind that stipper can soften bodyfiller. Check all of your work. Be aware of a fire hazard with all of that product moving around.
As a tip, edge mask off all doors, headlight covers, hood and other areas where you do not want to get stripper down inside. Once stripped you can finish sanding to the edge. Pull the bumpers.
My 76 had the orignal lacquer finish and two other enamal paint jobs on top. I used 150 grit on a DA orbital and was able to control the whole process, time consuming but successful.
Dano.
As a tip, edge mask off all doors, headlight covers, hood and other areas where you do not want to get stripper down inside. Once stripped you can finish sanding to the edge. Pull the bumpers.
My 76 had the orignal lacquer finish and two other enamal paint jobs on top. I used 150 grit on a DA orbital and was able to control the whole process, time consuming but successful.
Dano.
Drifting
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,629
Likes: 4
From: Somers CT
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,069
Likes: 2
From: Sherwood Park AB
I used razor blades to strip most of the body and like everyone else said; lotsa sharp ones and you'll figure out what works for you. I used Cap'n lees on the really curved sections, headlight bezels and on some Rustoleum the PO sprayed on the hood and T-tops. No worries with either way; however, the razor blades do work remarkably fast.... I'm sure you could have it stripped in a weekend with a buddy helping. 
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,069
Likes: 2
From: Sherwood Park AB
Ummmm... be careful with Aircraft stripper. Make sure it says it can be used for fiberglass. I'll bet most of the horror stories about stripper are from people using non-fiberglass strippers leaching into the fiberglass.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 11,360
Likes: 382
From: Plano TX
I think the problems come from people not realizing that the stripper will soak into body filler. After you use chem strip all body filler must be removed. If you leave even just a little and then paint on top of it you could have a disaster.
Racer
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 430
Likes: 0
From: SIGONELLA Sicily
I'm not gonna lie i was a little but skeptical about useing a razor blade. But i had over 8 hours in to sanding and verry little to show for it, soo... i gave it a shot. 
worked like a charm i bow down to the mastery of all of yall who sugested it! Now 
i got some more work to do. Thanks again! CM2 Aldinger
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 2,762
Likes: 820
From: SUFFIELD CT USA 2023 C8 CORVETTE UN-MODIFIED FINALIST
2023 C8 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
Nope. We used the "non fiberglass" type aircraft stripper on the entire car with no problems.
I think the problems come from people not realizing that the stripper will soak into body filler. After you use chem strip all body filler must be removed. If you leave even just a little and then paint on top of it you could have a disaster.
I think the problems come from people not realizing that the stripper will soak into body filler. After you use chem strip all body filler must be removed. If you leave even just a little and then paint on top of it you could have a disaster.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,069
Likes: 2
From: Sherwood Park AB
Nope. We used the "non fiberglass" type aircraft stripper on the entire car with no problems.
I think the problems come from people not realizing that the stripper will soak into body filler. After you use chem strip all body filler must be removed. If you leave even just a little and then paint on top of it you could have a disaster.
I think the problems come from people not realizing that the stripper will soak into body filler. After you use chem strip all body filler must be removed. If you leave even just a little and then paint on top of it you could have a disaster.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 246
Likes: 2
From: colonia New jeresy
Nope. We used the "non fiberglass" type aircraft stripper on the entire car with no problems.
I think the problems come from people not realizing that the stripper will soak into body filler. After you use chem strip all body filler must be removed. If you leave even just a little and then paint on top of it you could have a disaster.
I think the problems come from people not realizing that the stripper will soak into body filler. After you use chem strip all body filler must be removed. If you leave even just a little and then paint on top of it you could have a disaster.
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 3,729
Likes: 267
From: Austin Texas
Corvette of the Year Winner 2017
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
I thought what .... razor blades your crazy !
then I tried it,... it is the best way to go.
As they say once you start and get the hang off it it is easy to do.
chemicals and even soda blasting can have bad after effects.
SPI clear coat specifically states Do not use Soda Blasting.
if you do nick the fiberglass some with razor plades it is not a big deal,
after sealing and sanding it works out just fine.
Yes I am a Razor Stripper !
then I tried it,... it is the best way to go.
As they say once you start and get the hang off it it is easy to do.
chemicals and even soda blasting can have bad after effects.
SPI clear coat specifically states Do not use Soda Blasting.
if you do nick the fiberglass some with razor plades it is not a big deal,
after sealing and sanding it works out just fine.
Yes I am a Razor Stripper !
