MotorHead

I have never owned a car that I have actually kept long enough to have to replace something that I have already replaced

I am looking for the thinnest, and easiest to install insulation-heat barrier / sound deadening material that there is.

I never replaced the rear insulation before because the factory stuff was so well molded around the wheel wells I just left it there but I might replace it this time.

Any suggestions, price and how much I need to do the front and back as I might not do the back again would be appreciated

patraw03

Dyanamat is the best that I have researched, it is very simple and has pre cut out material for whatever car that you own. It is expensive though, but is worth it for what you want. It has an adhesive side that presses right onto the surface. However the research I did on this, If you own a C-3 it will be hard to dampen all the outside sound, especially with the T-tops or convertible. If you cruise around with the tops off or down, it may not be worth it and you can spend your money else where. Do your research to find out what the best places to put it and to see if maybe you don't need it

MotorHead

Thanks, that's the perfect reason why I posted this, I know it's been discussed several times.

The remark about cruising with the T Tops off, which I do 95 % of the time and the noise of a 600HP motor and the Spal fans which you can actually hear over the engine noise really reduces my needs for a sound deadening material.

So I would be more interested in just the thinnest and best price stuff out there with some heat barrier characteristics.

U17

Some of the folks around here have just used the material from Lowes / Home Depot... I put the left overs in the back of mine....But like having a radio, it's hard to justify with the tops never on and sidepipes ect ...

Rontech

Motorhead,

I don't know if this stuff works. I'll fine out in due time. I'm installing it. Check it out. http://www.lobucrod.com/



Ron

gdh

Wayne, I ordered the pre-cut insulation from Madvette this past fall. It does not however go all the way up the firewall so when I do mine I'll just pick up some more of it from Santo (he has some bulk sheets). I got it when he had a 20% sale and the pkge was $80 US shipped. If you want to see it come on up.
http://cca.madvettemotorsports.com/s...t_detail&p=119

MotorHead

Thanks Greg, just get yours fired up for the spring. No one to cruise with anymore. The Canadian section we founded is not what it used to be and I hardly ever go their anymore.

MotorHead

That looks fantastic , it looks like it is easy to mold into all the nooks and crannies and hard to get at places. How much did that cost just for the front area in the pic ?

Oh and I will only be going up to the top of the floor up where the pedals rods go thru the firewall under the dash I won't be taking the gauges and all that off

Rontech

One roll was used and about two and a half cans of adhesive covered the front and behind the seats not the storage area. 3M general trim adhesive #08088 at about $16.00 each from NAPA. One roll of insulation was about 33.00 dollars. Check out the site I Posted. EZ COOL Insulation. Note you have to cut it in pieces as you need it also one roll of aluminum tape from Lowe's to cover the seams.

Ron

MotorHead

So you bought the EZ Cool stuff in 4 x 10 or 4 x 20 roll ?

Looks like I have to email them for a price ?

alswagg

This does look great. I would like to do the same before I install a new carpet kit. Al

MotorHead

I just realized this company is in Canada and I think it is not far from where I live

airtime

i used hushmat for the heat and sound vibrations then went with some megabond sound deadener. the sound vibration hushmat was a peel and stick job and was fast and easy. dynomat has to be glued down unless they have changed. hushamt and dynomat is a heat and vibration dampener, not sound. either way you will have to add the sound deadener on top of them to get the total package. i have about 1000 in my interior. that is buying off ebay and searching for the cheapest deals. i have installed a 10" sub in my car and with it thumping hard i have zero vibrations and rattles with car turned off. can not attest to the heat shield yet as i have not put any miles on the car since install/ check out my install thread for pics. anything less than lexus level sound deadening and i will be disappointed. the megabond stuff is super quiet. i have the lowes heat insulation in my 67 camaro. works good on heat but not on vibrations or noise.

7T1vette

You don't need heat insulation material under the carpet in the storage compartment. Heat sources are far enough from the floor area to not be of concern. Only sound deadener is needed there. Heat insulation should be run from as high on the firewall as you can get, under all the transmission tunnel stuff (lots of heat generated there), and back on the bulkhead behind the seats.

I'm unaware of any single product that deadens sound AND insulates for heat. Sound deadener will delay the heat from coming through; but when it does, it will be just as hot as without it. IMO, you need heat insulation in the front of the cabin and sound insulation behind the seat bulkhead. Putting both in is pretty bulky under the carpeting.

Good luck with the project.

springer89

http://www.performancemotorsportsnew...2&vendorID=914

Rontech

Yes I ordered only one roll 4 X 10 feet. I used the small pieces in the tight areas so I didn't waste any. I'll need another roll to finish the area behind the seats and the doors if I cover them. A roll only weights 3 lbs!

Ron

SOMFormula

http://cca.madvettemotorsports.com/s...t_detail&p=119

I bought this, along with some Hushmat from summit racing.

I have my G/F's Civic Si all dynamat'd and dyna pad'd. It made a HUGE difference in the cabin noise level.

I really want to try "Lizard Skin" next! I was thinking of coating my Jeep's floor with it, then re-installing the carpet back on to see if I like it. I dig the fact that its a spray on, so it will help against rust.

martinsw

I went with the microspheres and made my own 'lizard skin' by mixing with rustoleum paint. Great for heat - maybe not so much for sound. Relatively inexpensive also, and not too thick. Could put on exterior fiewall also ( I didn't).

I also used the home depot stuff - added thickness and should help for heat - maybe some sound. Then normal new carpet w/jute.

I made other changes at the same time, so uncertain of the amount of benefit from individual components. My end result - not much of an issue with heat anymore, sound is better...

ajrothm

3 layers of dynamat on the floors and firewall. Then I used a cheaper "cool mat" for behind the seats...the cheaper stuff actually rolled in easier and stuck better.

BTW, the dynamat will still transmit some heat through it. Even 3 layers thick the heat will eventually go through to some degree.

For my firewall, I used Thermo Tec 1/8" self adheising fiberglass/aluminum insulation. It is expensive but I feel it blocks heat better.


Then I decided to line the bottom of the car with it...



My car is actually comfortable to drive in the summer, even without the AC on but.....if it's over 90* outside, I'm blasting the cabin with 38* frosty air and enjoying ever minute of it. It is every bit as comfortable inside as my dads C6 during the summer.

It's a lot of work but worth the effort.

airtime

aj i just noticed on ur bulkhead shot u covered up ur wires going to your center console. i worried and wasted alot of time deciding what i was going to do. silly looking back but at the time i thought it was important. i ended up putting the wires on the outside so i could replace them if thay ever gave any problems. never know with those fiber optic lines. putting heat and sound deadener down was a pita. did u have any advice for doing the doors? i have keyless entry going into my doors before i insulate them.