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598 cid and 4-link Stingray Build

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Old 01-28-2011, 08:47 AM
  #21  
Grumpy 427
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600 Cubic inch and a 4 spd, this should be interesting.
Old 01-29-2011, 09:57 AM
  #22  
13brenova
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Pics of the Autofab parts.....









The only two problems are that we are missing one of the heim joint spacers and one of the link bar welds is cracking out. Neither are a big deal. We'll just call Josh for the missing spacer and run another pass over the cracked weld.

Old 01-29-2011, 10:02 AM
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13brenova
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Specs on the axle....

- 3.50 Gearset with EDM backcut to lighten the ring gear
- Aluminum center section
- Aluminum pinion support
- 1350 series yolk
- 35 spline gun-drilled axles with lightening holes driled in the faces
- Wave Track Posi
- Back brace
- 3" long, 1/2" diameter studs

Let the shenanigans begin!
Old 01-29-2011, 10:04 AM
  #24  
13brenova
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Originally Posted by pef427
You're gonna need some serious rubber to hold that beast! There was a similar car on here a few years ago that a guy named Mike owned with a 540 and he wrecked it right after it was finished. That much TQ and HP can be a handful.
Hope that doesn't happen to us! Regardless, I'm seeing a roll bar in the very near future.....
Old 01-29-2011, 10:27 AM
  #25  
Mastr Fab
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What's the flange to flange width on that rear end? Also what are your plans for the stock rear end? I'm contemplating starting this swap and it would be nice to offset some of the expense by selling the stock rear. Do you think that would bring the most return by selling it complete or parting out?
Old 01-29-2011, 05:03 PM
  #26  
holley505
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Sweet Baby Jesus
Old 01-29-2011, 10:41 PM
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13brenova
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Well, goings were slow today, but we got some good work done. The control arm holes are plated and the 4-link brackets are in. Hopefully tomorrow we'll get the axle in place and the shock mounts welded in.







Old 01-29-2011, 10:48 PM
  #28  
13brenova
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Originally Posted by Mastr Fab
What's the flange to flange width on that rear end? Also what are your plans for the stock rear end? I'm contemplating starting this swap and it would be nice to offset some of the expense by selling the stock rear. Do you think that would bring the most return by selling it complete or parting out?
Axle width is 57 1/4" flange to flange. We'll probably try to sell the rear suspension. I'm not sure if parting out the rear suspension would bring more or not?
Old 01-29-2011, 10:50 PM
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Originally Posted by l88rocket
cool looks like a sweet project, nice nova too
The Nova actually has a rotary engine....bring on the flames!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-SBpIwKfjps
Old 01-30-2011, 12:52 AM
  #30  
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You are quite the fabricator and a good welder also
Old 01-30-2011, 12:01 PM
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What is the cost of this unit? looks great!
Old 01-30-2011, 01:19 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by northern77
You are quite the fabricator and a good welder also
I agree, those welds look textbook!
Old 01-30-2011, 02:36 PM
  #33  
13brenova
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Originally Posted by Neptune75
What is the cost of this unit? looks great!
The 4-link is about 1.5k. The axle was pretty expensive because we went with every option to make it as light as possible.
Old 01-30-2011, 03:05 PM
  #34  
l88rocket
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Originally Posted by 13brenova
The Nova actually has a rotary engine....bring on the flames!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-SBpIwKfjps
Thats crazy, different I like it
Old 01-30-2011, 03:06 PM
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l88rocket
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No kidding awesome welds
Old 01-30-2011, 09:28 PM
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Well, we made some more progress today. We got the axle mocked in place and cut the fiberglass to accomodate the center section. It needs to be trimmed a little higher, but the way we are cutting it is very sanitary looking and should be very easy to create a template to fiberglass it back in. One thing we couldn't find were the shock mount tabs. We'll ask Josh at Autofab about it tomorrow. We decided not to relieve the center crossmember the way the instructions said. We cut a section out of the crossmember and are going to create our own loop instead. TIG welding in their piece would have been a nightmare and would have resulted in some welds I wouldn't be proud of.





Old 01-30-2011, 09:31 PM
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It also looks like the factory driveshaft will work for the time being if we can find a 1310/1350 combination U-joint.

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Old 01-31-2011, 11:51 AM
  #38  
pef427
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Originally Posted by 13brenova
It also looks like the factory driveshaft will work for the time being if we can find a 1310/1350 combination U-joint.
You can but I highly recommend cutting the end off and having a new 1350 end welded back on. You will definitely want to avoid putting weak links in this chain when you drop the hammer on the 598. Jim Moore 427Hotrod suggested a wall thickness to me at the time and I was able to find it and just made a whole new shaft with 1350's on both ends. I can't recall the thickness but the driveshaft shop said it would hold up well. Jim may can give you some input.
And your welds look great!

-Patrick
Old 01-31-2011, 12:16 PM
  #39  
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I have a 2-3/4" x .134" wall driveshaft in mine. With 1350's on both ends.

And yes....your welding is definitely nice stuff!

JIM
Old 01-31-2011, 05:12 PM
  #40  
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Great progress!.. what kind of tire, and backspacing are you planning??


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