Shark Bite coilovers versus monoleaf?
#1
Instructor
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Shark Bite coilovers versus monoleaf?
I just spent some time reading about both front monoleaf conversions and the Shark Bite coilovers.
Then also checked out the Shark Bite for the rears, altho I see they don't list them for an 81, so emailed and asked if they have any plans for that.
What's the better system for the front, the monoleaf or the Shark Bite coilovers, and why? I'm not looking for a road racer, just a decent firm handling ride that doesn't shake the car apart on rough roads.
Thanks!
Then also checked out the Shark Bite for the rears, altho I see they don't list them for an 81, so emailed and asked if they have any plans for that.
What's the better system for the front, the monoleaf or the Shark Bite coilovers, and why? I'm not looking for a road racer, just a decent firm handling ride that doesn't shake the car apart on rough roads.
Thanks!
#2
Premium Supporting Vendor
#3
Racer
Have you ever owned coilovers? I had them on my last car and they are the biggest pain in the butt on a street driven car. The jam nut will loosen sometimes, so you have to get under there and tighten it, then you have to measure everything to see if the adjusting nut moved at all, and if it did you have to move one side and remeasure over and over. They always make noise, no matter how well they are adjusted. If you are going to be doing racing with it, I highly recommend them for the adjustability, but I am very against them for a road car. I just dont think they are worth the extra money and pain-in-the-buttness.
#5
Racer
They weren't on a Corvette, they were on my old Mustang. If these don't have the same problems I had, then I would be more likely to want to buy coilovers, but for a street driven car, I just wouldn't be able to justify the extra cost.
#6
Premium Supporting Vendor
I've have coilovers on 2 seperate cars (70 Monte Carlo & 80 Vette, which was the test mule for our front & rear kits) and I've never had them come loose. Been on there for at least 5 yrs.
#7
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What about rear? I have FG monospring, your offset trailing arms and, again, QA1 single adjustable shocks...
Thanks for your inputs.
#8
Premium Supporting Vendor
Panic,
Did you just do my upper arms? I don't think you got the lowers.
As for the QA1's, are they a threaded body shock? Also thought you went with Bilsteins. Are those threaded body shocks?
Depending on your lower a-arms & if the shock is a threaded body shock, you might be able to get away with just some coils and mounting brackets.
If you do not have my lowers, than you will need those and the front coilovers if you do not have a threaded body shock. The rear uses a different offset t-arm and we use a smaller ID coil spring. 2.25" vs 2.5". The arm is also cut out for additional coil clearance.
We also offer 2 different types of front shocks. 1 shock package will slam the car BUT you loose suspension travel. The other shock is longer and good for about a 1.5" drop. Spring rates are base lined but we can go as low as 200 lbs & up to 2500 lbs. Rear spring rates can also be modified and go as low as 150 lbs & up to 1200 lbs.
Did you just do my upper arms? I don't think you got the lowers.
As for the QA1's, are they a threaded body shock? Also thought you went with Bilsteins. Are those threaded body shocks?
Depending on your lower a-arms & if the shock is a threaded body shock, you might be able to get away with just some coils and mounting brackets.
If you do not have my lowers, than you will need those and the front coilovers if you do not have a threaded body shock. The rear uses a different offset t-arm and we use a smaller ID coil spring. 2.25" vs 2.5". The arm is also cut out for additional coil clearance.
We also offer 2 different types of front shocks. 1 shock package will slam the car BUT you loose suspension travel. The other shock is longer and good for about a 1.5" drop. Spring rates are base lined but we can go as low as 200 lbs & up to 2500 lbs. Rear spring rates can also be modified and go as low as 150 lbs & up to 1200 lbs.
#9
Melting Slicks
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St. Jude Donor '08
Do you have any special discount for the forum members regarding front and rear coil-overs? , what is the widest wheel/tire combo I can get into the rear when using your coil-over kits with the offset trailing arms? , hopefully I can go as wide as a 295 tires on a 9.5 in rims.
#10
Premium Supporting Vendor
Do you have any special discount for the forum members regarding front and rear coil-overs? , what is the widest wheel/tire combo I can get into the rear when using your coil-over kits with the offset trailing arms? , hopefully I can go as wide as a 295 tires on a 9.5 in rims.
Tire combo is going to depend on a couple of things. Generally a 285 is the widest but a 295 may be possible. Got flares? What size is the rim? (15,16,18,20") I need to look up what the sectional width of the tire is going to be on that specific rim.
I would also recommend our new offset(shortened) rear bar with the coilovers.
Dan
#11
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Location: Sorrento Italy
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Panic,
Did you just do my upper arms? I don't think you got the lowers.
As for the QA1's, are they a threaded body shock? Also thought you went with Bilsteins. Are those threaded body shocks?
Depending on your lower a-arms & if the shock is a threaded body shock, you might be able to get away with just some coils and mounting brackets.
If you do not have my lowers, than you will need those and the front coilovers if you do not have a threaded body shock. The rear uses a different offset t-arm and we use a smaller ID coil spring. 2.25" vs 2.5". The arm is also cut out for additional coil clearance.
We also offer 2 different types of front shocks. 1 shock package will slam the car BUT you loose suspension travel. The other shock is longer and good for about a 1.5" drop. Spring rates are base lined but we can go as low as 200 lbs & up to 2500 lbs. Rear spring rates can also be modified and go as low as 150 lbs & up to 1200 lbs.
Did you just do my upper arms? I don't think you got the lowers.
As for the QA1's, are they a threaded body shock? Also thought you went with Bilsteins. Are those threaded body shocks?
Depending on your lower a-arms & if the shock is a threaded body shock, you might be able to get away with just some coils and mounting brackets.
If you do not have my lowers, than you will need those and the front coilovers if you do not have a threaded body shock. The rear uses a different offset t-arm and we use a smaller ID coil spring. 2.25" vs 2.5". The arm is also cut out for additional coil clearance.
We also offer 2 different types of front shocks. 1 shock package will slam the car BUT you loose suspension travel. The other shock is longer and good for about a 1.5" drop. Spring rates are base lined but we can go as low as 200 lbs & up to 2500 lbs. Rear spring rates can also be modified and go as low as 150 lbs & up to 1200 lbs.
#12
Melting Slicks
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St. Jude Donor '08
Forum members get 10% off on just about everything. Give me a call and I can e-mail you an estimate.
Tire combo is going to depend on a couple of things. Generally a 285 is the widest but a 295 may be possible. Got flares? What size is the rim? (15,16,18,20") I need to look up what the sectional width of the tire is going to be on that specific rim.
I would also recommend our new offset(shortened) rear bar with the coilovers.
Dan
Tire combo is going to depend on a couple of things. Generally a 285 is the widest but a 295 may be possible. Got flares? What size is the rim? (15,16,18,20") I need to look up what the sectional width of the tire is going to be on that specific rim.
I would also recommend our new offset(shortened) rear bar with the coilovers.
Dan
#13
Premium Supporting Vendor
The wheel well is only 11" wide. So I would say no. For a 295 series tire, you need an 10-11.5" wheel. From my book a 295/35/18 on a 10" rim will have a sectional width of 11.9". The sectional with will increase on a smaller rim. A 275/40/18 would be the best option with your currect rim for overall height and sectional width.