Ignition switch tumbler doesn't rotate to all positions malfunction
03-05-2011, 04:04 PM
#1
Ignition switch tumbler doesn't rotate to all positions malfunction
I had a thread here looking for help getting my stuck key out of the ignition. The original plan was to remove the ignition cylinder and replace it, but, after some very helpful tips by Jim Shea and other members, I came to find out that the ignition cylinder was not the culprit of my issue.
Below is how I repaired it, and hopefully this can help others in the future.
The problem:
My key would not come out of the ignition. It would turn clockwise and turn the engine on, and turn counter clock wise to turn the engine off, but wouldn't make it all the way back to the OFF-LOCK, which is where it needs to be to get the key out. Below is Jim Shea's explanation.
The Issue:
The issue at hand is best described by Jim Shea. I'm quoting him from my original thread.
The Revelation:
I took Jim's advice and looked under my hood, drivers side, just behind and down of the valve cover. The lever in question is located there, and if you're in the drivers seat looking through the dash at the lever, mine would only go as high as 3 o'clock (but needed to go to 1). I tried to move it by hand and it wouldn't budge. I looked under the car to find the cable's other end attached there, and sure enough, it was bent. Thus, when the car was put in park, rather than move the cable up and the lever into 1, the cable basically bent on itself into a "u" shape.
The Fix:
Disconnecting the cable at the lever proved to be the fix. I could then move the lever up, and remove the key. Rather than leave it disconnected, I ordered a replacement cable (Corvette Central part#533030, cost $39.95). Replacing it was fairly simple. Put the car on jack stands, removed the retaining pins under the car and near the lever, and pulled the cable through the holes and out (takes some muscle as the cable is hard). Then put the new cable in, retaining clips, and tested...and she works.
Big thanks to all who helped provide the original data on the solution and parts needed. Original thread is here: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...e-on-75-a.html
(The car in question is a 1975 Corvette, Non-Telescopic Steering, Non-Power Steering).
Below is how I repaired it, and hopefully this can help others in the future.
The problem:
My key would not come out of the ignition. It would turn clockwise and turn the engine on, and turn counter clock wise to turn the engine off, but wouldn't make it all the way back to the OFF-LOCK, which is where it needs to be to get the key out. Below is Jim Shea's explanation.
Now, there are five positions for your ignition key, lock cylinder, and ignition switch. First disconnect your battery. Now starting at the most clockwise position of your ignition key and coming back CCW, you have the following:
START (the key should spring return out of START), RUN, OFF, OFF-LOCK, and ACCESSORY (you will need to push in on the key and cylinder to get from OFF-LOCK to ACCESSORY). Your ignition key can only be removed from the lock cylinder in the OFF-LOCK position.
START (the key should spring return out of START), RUN, OFF, OFF-LOCK, and ACCESSORY (you will need to push in on the key and cylinder to get from OFF-LOCK to ACCESSORY). Your ignition key can only be removed from the lock cylinder in the OFF-LOCK position.
The issue at hand is best described by Jim Shea. I'm quoting him from my original thread.
On a 1975 Corvette there is a cable coming from the transmission (either manual or automatic) that attaches to the steering column. Open the hood and look down under the brake master cylinder. You should see the very end of the steering column extending through the front of dash panel. There should be a lever sticking out of the column jacket that is pointing toward the engine.
When you shift into PARK (automatic) or REVERSE (manual trans) the cable should push that lever all the way to the UP position. (If you were able to look down your steering column from the driver seat, the
lever would be roughly at the 1 o'clock position when full UP.)
If the lever is in any other position than full UP, you will only be able to turn your ignition key from START, RUN, and OFF. You will not be able to rotate to OFF-LOCK or ACCESSORY and remove your key.
If the cable is not attached or the lever and cable is stuck, you need to get that lever to the 1 o'clock position in order for the ignition key to be able to rotate further to the OFF-LOCK and ACCESSORY positions.
A lot of people disconnect the cable from column lever and permanently wire the lever in the full UP position. Maybe the lever has shifted, the cable is corroded and frozen, the cable has become disconnected, etc.
When you shift into PARK (automatic) or REVERSE (manual trans) the cable should push that lever all the way to the UP position. (If you were able to look down your steering column from the driver seat, the
lever would be roughly at the 1 o'clock position when full UP.)
If the lever is in any other position than full UP, you will only be able to turn your ignition key from START, RUN, and OFF. You will not be able to rotate to OFF-LOCK or ACCESSORY and remove your key.
If the cable is not attached or the lever and cable is stuck, you need to get that lever to the 1 o'clock position in order for the ignition key to be able to rotate further to the OFF-LOCK and ACCESSORY positions.
A lot of people disconnect the cable from column lever and permanently wire the lever in the full UP position. Maybe the lever has shifted, the cable is corroded and frozen, the cable has become disconnected, etc.
I took Jim's advice and looked under my hood, drivers side, just behind and down of the valve cover. The lever in question is located there, and if you're in the drivers seat looking through the dash at the lever, mine would only go as high as 3 o'clock (but needed to go to 1). I tried to move it by hand and it wouldn't budge. I looked under the car to find the cable's other end attached there, and sure enough, it was bent. Thus, when the car was put in park, rather than move the cable up and the lever into 1, the cable basically bent on itself into a "u" shape.
The Fix:
Disconnecting the cable at the lever proved to be the fix. I could then move the lever up, and remove the key. Rather than leave it disconnected, I ordered a replacement cable (Corvette Central part#533030, cost $39.95). Replacing it was fairly simple. Put the car on jack stands, removed the retaining pins under the car and near the lever, and pulled the cable through the holes and out (takes some muscle as the cable is hard). Then put the new cable in, retaining clips, and tested...and she works.
Big thanks to all who helped provide the original data on the solution and parts needed. Original thread is here: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...e-on-75-a.html
(The car in question is a 1975 Corvette, Non-Telescopic Steering, Non-Power Steering).
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Aussie C3 (11-16-2020)
02-01-2013, 10:36 PM
#5
Melting Slicks
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Great thread! I know it's 'old' now, but I just purchased a car with the key stuck in the ignition and this thread came up in a search and solved my problem. I'm sure it'll be a good source for others down the road. 
02-02-2013, 07:26 AM
#7
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We should make this into a "sticky" so it can be easily referenced in the future. This problem with 1969 through 1976 C3s gets written up very frequently.
Most owners are not familiar with the General Motors Steering Column/Transmission Shift Interlock System. It usually comes as a surprise that there is a lower lever on the steering column that is connected to the transmission and interconnected to the ignition lock cylinder and key.
Excellent pictures and explanation.
Jim Shea
Most owners are not familiar with the General Motors Steering Column/Transmission Shift Interlock System. It usually comes as a surprise that there is a lower lever on the steering column that is connected to the transmission and interconnected to the ignition lock cylinder and key.
Excellent pictures and explanation.
Jim Shea
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Carpenter 81 (11-01-2022)
02-08-2013, 11:24 PM
#8
Advanced
We should make this into a "sticky" so it can be easily referenced in the future. This problem with 1969 through 1976 C3s gets written up very frequently.
Most owners are not familiar with the General Motors Steering Column/Transmission Shift Interlock System. It usually comes as a surprise that there is a lower lever on the steering column that is connected to the transmission and interconnected to the ignition lock cylinder and key.
Excellent pictures and explanation.
Jim Shea
Most owners are not familiar with the General Motors Steering Column/Transmission Shift Interlock System. It usually comes as a surprise that there is a lower lever on the steering column that is connected to the transmission and interconnected to the ignition lock cylinder and key.
Excellent pictures and explanation.
Jim Shea
Many thanks guys, like always you're willing to help with volumes of tribal knowledge.
DC
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Dave81 (03-26-2019)
04-06-2013, 09:47 PM
#11
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Would this cause a manual not to shift into gear? I just got it all back together an had the key problem as well (with a new cable to boot). I have not gotten under the car to see if this is the issue, but I cannot get it into gear (except reverse). Only know this as today was the first day this car has run since 86.
04-17-2013, 08:25 PM
#12
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also it might be a good thing to mention that the end of the cable with the rubber seal on it goes on the steering column end. just did this on mine and realized that I put it on upside down, and I had to redo it.
05-08-2013, 08:42 PM
#13
Melting Slicks
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You know, this has me worried that I may have put mine on backwards given that my broken one was the opposite way. My car is not here at the moment for me to check, but what are the consequences of installing it the opposite direction?
05-09-2013, 12:35 AM
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I don't know , but I thought it would be nice to know which way it is supposed to go, just in case .....
05-24-2013, 08:14 AM
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Worth asking if there is any reason not to just disconnect the cable and leave the lever in the up position? Any thoughts on this? Thanks
05-25-2013, 08:14 PM
#18
Melting Slicks
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NCM Sinkhole Donor
Thanks for the tip. My lever did move down about a 1/2" and that was enough to lock out the key. Saves me from taking it down to someone to get the key out. Now I just have to wire the lever up so it doesn't move again.
