I have things partially torn down. The pictures below speak for themselves. Next step is to drop the pan and look at the remains down there. The magnetic drain plug picked up a lot of fuzzies on it.

 

The oil pan plug looks like it has anti-freeze on it. Is that just the picture?

Boy, it sure did a number on that cam lobe.

 

There was coolant in the pan from when I took the intake manifold off.

 

WOW :eek: What do you think could have caused this :confused: ?

 

Hate to tell you this ,,,, pull the motor !! :rolleyes:

Geo

 

I'm running the latest high tech Crane Cams solid roller with a rev kit. I had something over 9000 miles when I pulled the intake this winter to inspect everything. It has been my experience in the past that solid rollers have @ 15K miles before some of the roller wheels start to get loose. So if I find one loose they whole set goes.

I just looked in Jegs and you paid more for those verticle bar H-rollers than I did for my solids. I'd fix the car with something else and sell the new rollers when they come in. The combined company of Mr.Gasket/Mallory/Earson cams is just right down the road from me. They will make custom small base circle roller grinds $225 out the door. So maybe give them a call. They use Crane Blanks.

Something had to snag up for that bar to break. Those are really tough units. I always read the paperwork last. I was cleaning up some papers in my garage and I came across the Crane lifter install paperwork. The second paragraph in bold lettering and outline said "These lifters should never be run in a block with oil restrictors or cam valley splash plugs." Hey, I got this bad feeling in my stomach and pulled the intake. I can't pull the oil restrictors unless I pull the tranny or the motor so they are going to be just a little less lubed than they like! ;)

 

Here is what came out of the oil pan :



Oil filter had some goodies in it. The real question is what about the motor, is it toast ? will it live ? Am I looking at going through the engine, are there more particles lodged in the engine somewhere ?

Parts are being sent off top Comp Cams to see what the warranty department will do. This really erks me.

The lifters slid out of their bore without a problem. There was really nothing tell tale the something went south, aside from the horizontal connection bar. The valves were never floated, rpm never exceeded 6500 rpm and that engine speed was really rare. Mobil 1 10w30 was used through the whole season. The rest of the cam looks great. The fuel pump ecentric is a little rough but I am not sure if that is a result of what happened here or not, I would assume so. Judging by the fragments found in the oil pan there was some pounding going on in the motor.


All I can say is :
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/derek....1_sonobitc.wav

 

Pull the motor
inspect everything
could have little slivers in oil passages

 

Looking at those parts and the filings on your oil plug, I'd say that the engine probably has a bunch more crap in it. IMHO, I'd say the whole engine needs to be dissassembled and tanked. Pull the plugs on all the oil galleries and thouroughly brushed, cleaned and flushed.
It doesn't take much in the way of metal particles to mess things up big time.

 

looks like the adjustment on that one lobe was way too tight.

When I was 16, had a 57 Chev, put in a 12-18 Duntov,
had the adjustment too tight
wore the cam lobes down to nuthin'

 

Your best bet is a quicky rebuild. Tear it all down. Flush it out. By a total bearing and ring kit. If it's low miles and the cylinders ar okay. Just do a quik cross hatch hone job. Inspect your cam drive chain/gears, because you put a hell of a load on it.

Look at this as an oppurtunity to get the cam you aways really wanted. Because it's very fresh in you mind exactly how that motor ran.

I'll tell you I wanted to try a H-roller motor this time just to do something different. The more companies I talk too the more I knew that they weren't made for a performance car. Anything that is such low RPM limited like an H-roller cam is just doomed for failure. Because loss of traction, missed shifts, tranny failures, Beer! :cheers: All of these things can happen so fast that NO ignition rev limiter will save you.


[Modified by gkull, 3:45 PM 4/17/2002]

 

I have a 400 block/crank/rods/balencer sitting on an engine stand in my garage. It might be time to get that in the works.

 

Ya, stroke it!

The engine you moron! :lol:

If you don't want the 400, I'll take it off your hands for a nominal fee. :jester

 

I know you don't want to hear this because you keep asking the question. The short answer is this:

Yes, that engine will have to come out. Yes it will more than likely require new main and rod bearings after the bare block has been tanked. You will also require a new oil pump and pickup. Chances are you will also have to have your crank journals polished (at least).

Sorry. Keep us posted on what Comp says about its lifters. they've been pretty good with me but now I'm nervous.

 

Sorry to hear abought your misfortun. But guess what I just picked-up my monster from the shop, Cylinder #6 the push rod was bent in a u shape. The mechanic said the lobe was worn right down on the Comp cam 292H, this made the push rod slip off and Bang!! Is this common on these BB blocks Never had this kind of stuff happen on any engine before. Wonder if Comp Cams have a quality problem. The Cam including all of the recommended items were installed "push rods, springs and lifters and rockers" All items were installed 12 months ago.